Characterization of synthetic fragrances. Fragrances of synthetic origin In which fragrances the resin is used

Synthetic perfumery components are cheaper than natural ones, but not worse in quality. Synthetics in this case is a cleaner and more practical product that does not depend on the vagaries of nature and the type of soil. When, at the beginning of the 19th century, chemists managed to obtain the scent of a rose not from rose essential oil, but from citronella, it became clear that from now on perfumery would only develop in collaboration with chemistry.

The triumphal procession of synthetic components continues for two centuries. It became possible to obtain cheaper and easier valuable aromas of violet, vanilla and other traditional constituents of perfumes. It was possible to recreate the previously elusive smells of lilac and lily of the valley for perfumery.

With the help of synthetic components, you can create not only a specific plant or animal scent, but also a complex aroma of forest, steppe, jungle, sea shore or morning air over a field with wheat. Nowadays, there are practically no unrealizable perfume fantasies. Aldehydes have given perfumers a powerful means of expression.

Synthetic fragrances include the following.

Limonene - has a lemon scent, found in essential orange, lemon and caraway oils. Limonene is obtained by fractional distillation of essential oils, as well as synthetically from terpineol, by heating the latter with bisulfate.

Citral - emits a lemon scent. Contained in lemon wormwood and snakehead essential oil. Citral is obtained by chemical processing of coriander oil, as well as synthetically from isoprene and acetylene.

Geraniol - has a rose scent. Found in rose oil, geranium oil and lemon wormwood. Geraniol is obtained from essential oils by combining with calcium chloride.

Nerol - creates a rose scent, but more delicate than geraniol. Contained in rose, neroli, bergamot and other oils. The product is obtained by reduction of citral or isomerization of geraniol.

Benzaldehyde - gives off a bitter almond smell. It is contained in oils of bitter almond, orange, acacia, hyacinth, etc. It is obtained by oxidation of toluene.

Preservatives

Expanding the range of cosmetic products requires paying due attention to the creation of effective preservatives.

Many cosmetic products are a breeding ground for microorganisms. Powders (talc, starch, etc.) are susceptible to contamination with spores. Most waxes and emulsifiers, plant and animal extracts of proteins that make up cosmetic products can be a source of carbon and nitrogen for microorganisms, as well as a material for energy processes. Mineral salts added to cosmetics also promote the development of microorganisms. Biologically active substances used in cosmetics are stimulants of the growth of bacteria and fungi.

In addition, when raw materials come into contact with atmospheric oxygen, especially at elevated storage temperatures, oxidation of products occurs. In this case, the properties of the substance change and the raw material becomes unsuitable for the production of cosmetic products.

Cosmetic products without the use of special additives lose their validity practically within a few weeks or even days. Preservatives are used to increase their shelf life. The introduction of a preservative does not exclude the need to comply with the sanitary and hygienic rules at cosmetic enterprises, since this tool does not give the desired effect in case of massive microbial contamination.

Jars and bottles intended for packaging cosmetic products should be well rinsed with an antiseptic solution (benzyl alcohol, resorcinol, furacilin, etc.) and protected from dust, which is a source of spores.

Preservation of the product must ensure the safety of the cosmetic product and the safety of its use during the warranty period. In view of this, a number of requirements are imposed on preservatives:

A wide range of antimicrobial action, covering all types of microflora found in cosmetic preparations;

Manifestation of activity in low concentrations and its preservation in the widest pH range;

Good solubility in water and poor in oils;

Ability not to be inactivated by other ingredients and packaging material, not to decompose and not to evaporate during the guaranteed shelf life of products;

Safety for human health, i.e. lack of acuteness and chronic toxicity, the ability to cause allergic reactions and other adverse effects;

Preservation of color, smell, and sometimes taste of products with the introduction of preservatives;

Availability of receipt and low cost.

A universal preservative that would satisfy all these requirements and can be used in any cosmetic products has not yet been found. Currently, not individual preservatives are more and more widely used, but their mixtures, acting in various combinations with each other, having a synergistic effect and having a wide spectrum of action.

Preservatives include formaldehyde, sorbic acid, ethyl alcohol, citral, benzyl acetate, benzoic acid, essential oils, etc.

Benzoic acid is a common preservative used in the form of a sodium salt and is highly soluble in water.

Formaldehyde is a well-known antimicrobial agent. An aqueous solution of formaldehyde is used for the preservation of cosmetic products in concentrations from 0.05 to 0.2%.

Sorbic acid is a substance that is poorly soluble in water, but well soluble in organic solvents. The potassium salt of sorbic acid is also used, which is small, almost white flakes, readily soluble in water, and therefore is often used instead of sorbic acid. Sorbic acid isopropylene alcohol also belongs to the category of preservatives.

Vanillic acid - vanillic acid ethyl ester is used as a preservative in the food industry and cosmetics.

Germal is a hygroscopic white powder, tasteless and odorless, readily soluble in water, but insoluble in oils. It is combined with all types of cosmetic raw materials, and protein products and surfactants enhance its antimicrobial activity. Storage stable, has a wide working pH range. It is used for the preservation of children's cosmetics, protein preparations (hair products), skin care products, and is part of aerosol preparations.

Dovitsil-200, like germal, belongs to the group of formaldehyde donors. It is a hygroscopic white crystalline substance with a low odor, highly soluble in water and almost insoluble in oils. Dovitsil and its complexes with other preservatives are introduced into face and hand creams, shaving products, shampoos, protein preparations for baths, and especially often into various protein preparations for hair.

Dyes

Perfumery and cosmetic products contain various dyes. They are introduced into decorative cosmetics, creams, soaps, shampoos, lotions and other products to give them a cosmetic appearance.

Certain requirements are imposed on dyes used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry:

The fineness of grinding (dispersion) - with high dispersion, the color of the perfume product improves, the intensity of its effect increases;

Hiding power - the ability of a dye mixed with a binder to cover a surface so that it does not shine through the applied paint layer;

Coloring power - when mixed with pigments of a different color, the dye should give the mixture its own color;

Lightfastness - the ability to retain color when exposed to light;

Low-capacity - low-capacity dyes are the most economical;

Chemical stability - the ability to maintain its color properties under the influence of acids, alkalis, etc .;

No toxic effects on the skin.

Dyes are classified into inorganic and organic.

Inorganic (mineral) dyes are oxides and salts of various metals. By origin, they can be natural and artificial. Natural dyes are obtained from the earth. They have high chemical resistance, but insufficient brightness and color saturation. These include:

Ocher is a natural pigment. Ocher is distinguished by color, light, medium and golden yellow. Ocher is resistant to light, weathering, alkalis and weak acids. Ocher is a part of decorative cosmetics.

Siena is a type of ocher. It can be unbaked, yellow-olive in color and burnt, brown-orange in color. It is part of make-up paints, mascara, eye shadow.

Mummy is a natural red pigment obtained by roasting iron-bearing ores. Resistant to light, alkalis, acids. It is used in the production of decorative cosmetics.

Umber is a natural brown pigment. Formed during the weathering of iron ores containing manganese. The chemical composition is close to ocher. Resistant to light, alkalis. When heated, it becomes shiny and dark. It is used in the production of decorative cosmetics.

Artificial mineral pigments are chemically produced oxides and metal salts. They are lightfast and have good hiding power.

Ultramarine is a pigment obtained by fusing kaolin, soda and sulfur. Depending on the ratio of the starting materials and the reaction conditions, it has different colors (from green to purple). The most widely used is ultramarine blue. Resistant to color, alkalis, but decomposed by acids. It is used in the production of mascara, shadows, make-up paints.

Chromium oxide is a dark green pigment. It is obtained by calcining a chromium peak in the presence of sulfur and other reducing agents. Light resistant. It is used in the production of mascara, eye shadow.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are used as white dyes.

Organic dyes include carbon black, the most common black dye. Formed by incomplete combustion of wood, oil, coal and natural resins (gas soot). In the production of decorative cosmetics, gas soot is used for the manufacture of mascara and shadows.

Artificial mixtures of organic dyes with minerals:

Carmine varnish is a deep red powder, insoluble in water. It is a compound of alumina with carminic acid. Gives a red suspension. It is used in the production of lipstick.

Kraplak is a bright red pigment with a bluish tint. Obtained by the action of aluminum and calcium salts on alizarin in the presence of alizarin oil. It is used in the production of lipsticks, blush, varnishes and enamels for nails.

Eosin is a red crystalline powder, soluble in alcohol but insoluble in water. Obtained by the action of bromine on fluorescein in the presence of sodium chlorite. Produces bright pink solutions. It is used to a limited extent (up to 30%) in the production of hard-to-remove lipstick.

It should be borne in mind that when using such lipstick, inflammation of the red border of the lips is possible.

Rhodamines (rhodamine 6G) are purple crystals, soluble in water and alcohol. Lilac solutions are given. Rhodamine C - red-violet crystals, soluble in water and alcohol. Rhodamines are used as independent dyes and mixed with eosin. Up to 30% of them are injected into lipsticks, blush, and make-up paints.

Disinfectants

and hemostatic agents

Disinfectants

When serving visitors, a hairdresser must comply with the established sanitary and hygienic rules. All kinds of microorganisms, including pathogens, can be found on the surface of tools used for cutting, shaving, and combing hair. All instruments must be disinfected to prevent transmission of infection.

Disinfection is the destruction of microorganisms different ways... Chemicals that kill microorganisms are called bactericidal. They must meet the following requirements:

Dissolve well in water;

Acting in low concentrations and killing microns in a short time

roorganisms;

Be sufficiently stable during storage;

Be cheap and easy to store and transport.

Products that are used to disinfect instruments include chloramine, formalin, ethyl alcohol, carbolic acid, etc.

The choice of disinfectants, their concentration, the amount and duration of the disinfection period depend on the material from which the instrument is made.

Disinfectants are divided into two types:

Physical (mechanical cleaning and washing with detergent).

Physical cleaning includes:

1) annealing the cutting parts of tools;

2) ironing (linen);

3) sterilization (boiling);

4) dry sterilization (using ultraviolet rays);

Chemical - these include: ethyl alcohol 70%; hydrogen peroxide 3%; chloramine 1-3%; alaminol 1%; septodor 1%, etc.

Chloramine - is a crystalline powder white, sometimes with a yellowish tinge, with a faint smell of chlorine. It can be stored for several years. Possesses high antimicrobial activity, well soluble in water. In hairdressing salons, a 0.3% aqueous solution is used to disinfect tools for combing hair (3 g of chloramine per 1 liter of water with a temperature not exceeding 60 ° C). The chloramine solution should be placed on the hairdresser's dressing table in a special container with a closed lid. The instruments are immersed in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Hairdresser's linen is disinfected in a 0.5% solution, which should be changed every 5 days.

Ethyl alcohol is a colorless transparent liquid with a pungent odor; it combines with water in any ratio and burns. Used as a disinfectant. 88% raw, 95.5% rectified and 96.5% high purity alcohol are produced.

Alcohol denatured alcohol - crude ethyl alcohol containing a dye that stains the alcohol in a blue-violet color. Comes to the hairdresser's 82% strength. Metal instruments are disinfected with alcohol of a certain purity and strength (at least 70%); to do this, filter it daily through a layer of cotton wool or gauze, and rinse the jar with hot water. The alcohol is completely replaced after 150 procedures. When disinfecting, the cutting surface of the instruments must be completely immersed in alcohol for 15 minutes.

Formalin is an aqueous solution of formaldehyde (a colorless gas with a pungent odor, readily soluble in water). Formalin is a colorless liquid that becomes cloudy during long-term storage, as this produces a white precipitate with a specific odor. Used as a 4% aqueous solution (100 ml formalin per liter of water) to disinfect new unused shaving brushes.

For cleaning the working room and other premises of the hairdressing salon, a 0.3-0.5% aqueous solution of bleach or a 0.5% solution of chloramine is used.

When cleaning the premises of a hairdressing salon, you can use disinfectants used in everyday life.

Polidez. It is prepared: 8-10 g of polydesis per 1 liter of water, a 1% solution of polydesis is obtained. It is necessary to change the label on the polidese daily. The date and the inscription "Polidez 1%" must be indicated on the label.

Alaminol 1%. It is used for disinfection of things, furniture.

Virkon is a balanced stable mixture of peroxide compounds, PAF, organic acids and an inorganic buffer system. The main constituent is potassium peroxysulfate, which has a strong oxidizing effect. They are used for the simultaneous cleaning and disinfection of walls, floors, equipment, tools, glass objects, etc. Virkon has a bactericidal effect (one percent solution, exposure 10 minutes); tubercolicidal action (3% solution, exposure 5 minutes); virulecidal action (including against hepatitis "B" - 10% solution, exposure 10 minutes); fungicidal action (1% solution, exposure 10 minutes).

To prepare a solution of the required concentration, the powder must be added to warm water.

Hemostatic agents

Bleeding can be stopped with special tools.

1. Hydrogen peroxide of 3-6% concentration, however, it stops the blood very slowly.

2. Aluminum alum is produced in the form of a pencil, but in this form it is impossible to use alum, since various diseases can be transmitted in this way. Better to prepare a solution of alum in hydrogen peroxide. To do this, the styptic pencil is crushed into powder and poured into a 3-6% peroxide solution in small portions. Alum is added until a certain amount of alum grains remains at the bottom of the bottle - the prepared solution becomes saturated. The solution should be stored in a dark bottle with a tightly closed stopper.

3. Fibrin is a fat-free film. Produced in the form of films in glass tubes.

4. Iodine, if a small wound, then on it, if a large one, then around the wound.

Iodine, lugol solution, yodinol, yodinat have bactericidal and antiviral effects.

5. Hydrogen beroxide is a colorless liquid, odorless. To cleanse wounds.

Perfumery products

The history of perfumery is inextricably linked with the history of mankind. Even in ancient times, people realized that by burning wood and resins, you can improve the taste of food. Then came the time of the Egyptians, who glorified their gods with fumigation and made fragrant ointments and aromatic oils, which accompanied various rituals and supplemented women's toilets.

The Greeks brought new aromas from their expeditions, and in ancient Rome, the smells were given healing power. The invasions of the barbarians have suspended the use of fragrances in the West. And then the peoples of Islam began to develop the art of perfumery. The Arabs and Persians turned into incomparable connoisseurs of spices, inventing the alembic and improving distillation.

It was necessary to wait until the 12th century for the Christian world to rediscover the pleasure of smells when using them, whether for hygiene purposes or simply for pleasure, or to combat plague or miasma. The 16th century combined the profession of a glove maker with that of a perfumer. perfumed gloves came into vogue. If the medieval society practiced baths and ablutions, then during the Renaissance and further, in the 16th and 17th centuries, they abandoned their use. As a revenge, the consumption of fragrances doubled to mask bad smells.

The 17th century offers a choice of civets and musk, to which delicate, floral and fruity scents were preferred during the Age of Enlightenment. The 17th century is known as the age of seduction, rich in new scents (even ashes were smelled on the Wednesday of the first week of Great Lent), as well as in bottles. In the 19th century, advances in chemistry made it possible to artificially reproduce smells that exist in nature, but also create new ones. This was the beginning of the perfume industry and Grasse established his mastery in the processing of floral raw materials.

Our century, not cheap for either luxury or progress, has not stopped confirming the place of perfumery in the privileged world of art, but also in the pitiless world of commercial competition.

3.1. Odor classification

Each major raw materials company (namely, they began to put things in order in the world of fragrances) has its own table of smells. It is generally accepted that almost everyone distinguishes floral, chypre, and woody groups. It is advisable to designate citrus, fern and leather families. (They continue to divide more and more fractionally or, conversely, merge, but we will focus on the most general scheme.) Armed with such a system as a kind of compass, you can determine in advance what is worth tasting first and what can be left for later.

Flower family

It can be said without exaggeration - the flower family is the most numerous. The fragrances of flowers such as rose, violet, jasmine, lily of the valley and others are so attractive in themselves that some modern perfumers, like their colleagues a couple of hundred years ago, make perfumes with only the dominant scent of one flower, based on natural or synthetic raw materials. There are also more complex floral scents, consisting of a whole bouquet. In such perfumes, you first feel the aroma of one flower, then gradually another, a third, and so on begins to sound.

This family includes floral aldehyde scents, which, as the name implies, are obtained from synthetic raw materials. The standard of this subgroup is, of course, Сhanel №5. There is also a floral-woody-fruity, consisting of a bouquet of fresh floral aromas and sweet fruity, as if powdered with the restraint of a woody spirit.

Citrus family

When creating perfumery products of this group, citrus essential oils of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange are used. Perfumes and eau de toilettes with the scent of this family are absolutely a win-win option when buying. If a floral scent can cause sympathy for some and disgust of others, then the overwhelming majority of people associate citrus scent with freshness in its purest form. In the citrus-floral-chypre subgroup, tart freshness is replaced by a delicate floral sweetness.

Chypre family

Her birth is associated with the creation of a perfume by a famous perfumer and businessman. The perfumer managed to make the characteristic heavy smell of oak moss more airy thanks to the scent of jasmine. The result is a complex composition with a clear initial green note, followed by a smooth transition from one subtle shade to another. Products belonging to this group are interesting in that the aromas are not very recognizable, especially in combination with others. Without a doubt, the scent of patchouli essential oil - a subtropical shrub - is not nearly as familiar as rose or violet. Oakmoss, smelling of both tree bark and sunny earth, and the pleasant moisture of the forest. It is these aromas, together with the aroma of incense and bergamot, that in one combination or another make up a strange and attractive chypre ensemble.

Tree family

The aromas united in it are the ancestors of perfumery. First there was a fire in which a tree was burning. And if its bark was fragrant, then a light suffocating wave of smoke and the fragrance of fragrant wood harmoniously merged together. Humanity has not forgotten its first perfumery experiences. They have become classics, which now no longer seem burdened by the burden of centuries, because they are used in a new reading. The light scent of cedar, for example, separating, as in a gust of wind, from the smoky stream, saturated with the scent of sandalwood with pungent citrus notes, is a testament to the belonging of the perfume to the woody family.

Sometimes such a perfume can strike with unexpected and pleasant bitterness of wormwood, sage, thyme, which is inherent in the subgroup of woody-scented odors. For lovers of abyss in a warm powdery cloud - as if a woody-amber perfume was specially created. And for those who like the thrill, you need to look for their aroma among woody spicy products. A sharp emotional shade is given to it by nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, cloves.

Water notes, which appeared in perfumery quite recently, only in the 90s, perfectly refresh woody compositions.

Amber family

The scent of amber (oriental or oriental) perfume is sweet-sexy-enticing, sometimes a little sugary. It is he who most of all corresponds to the traditional idea of ​​the ancient peoples about the real divine aroma. No wonder "amber" means "fragrant", "fragrant". The oriental composition is made up of such “sweet” components as vanilla, incense gum, and cistus. This dizzying bouquet is sometimes given a bit of animal passion with the help of musk.

Traditional oriental fragrances, heady and heavy, were very popular in the 70s and 80s of the XX century. Their modern interpretation suggests more easy option... This is achieved through the appearance of fruity and fresh citrus notes in the compositions.

In another way, it is called fougere, from the French word fougere, which means fern in translation. The ancestor of this family was the creation of the Fougere Royale ("royal fern") from Houbigant. A true masculine community of fougere fragrances, it matches the image of a strong and at the same time sophisticated man. And all thanks to the original combination, which also includes bergamot, lavender and moss. These components give a "killer" aroma in its strength. And it is not surprising that women like them so much, sometimes so much that they want to use such perfumes themselves. In this group, fougere-aromatic and fougere-fresh (or water) subgroups are distinguished. The fact that the ferns themselves do not smell is irrelevant, because the variations on this theme created by perfumers are very convincing.

Leather family

A small but very courageous family. It is based on the smell of tobacco and dry skin, from which sometimes a light aroma of a flower meadow emanates.

These fragrances are another "forbidden" magnet for women, and they are increasingly borrowed from their loved ones.

The leathery scent can be part of the chypre composition. Then devoid of sentimentality, it softens to such an extent that it can be used even by a woman who does not want to scent extravagantly.

3.2. Types of perfumery products

All types of perfumes can be grouped according to the following characteristics: consistency, nature of the smell, content of the composition, persistence of smell, purpose and place of production.

By consistency, perfumes are liquid, solid and powdery.

Liquid perfumes are pleasantly smelling alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions of perfume compositions with a floral or fantasy scent and are used as aromatizers.

Solid perfume is a waxy mass, most often in the form of a pencil, saturated with a perfume composition and painted in a specific color. Used for rubbing the skin.

Powdered perfume is a dried plant, ground into powder and perfumed with a perfume composition. Used to perfume linen.

By the nature of the smell, perfumes are floral, with the smell of a flower and fantasy, combining several smells of flowers or smells that are not found in nature.

Like music, smell lives on in time. As a rule, in every real perfume there are three notes or tones, corresponding to three stages of perception. The "high tones" (head note) are the shortest and fade after about 10-15 minutes. They are responsible for creating the first impression of the scent when you open the bottle or inhale the scent immediately after applying the perfume to your skin. “Mid tones” (heart note) is the main theme of the scent, it appears after the disappearance of high tones, after 20-30 minutes and “sounds” at different times, depending on the idea of ​​the perfumer. The longest are the "low tones" (final note): they form the basis of the perfume and are remembered by others. For persistent spirits, the final note lasts from several hours to several days. People with a very fine sense of smell are able to catch the scent of a good perfume even a week later. In modern compositions, for example, the sequence of notes is sometimes broken. For example, the top notes and the heart notes can sound simultaneously, or the heart notes immediately unfold, passing into a train, bypassing the head ones. There are perfumes that smell evenly, without transitions.

Spirits of the "Extra" group contain at least 10% of the perfume composition (based on the weight of the perfume), and the persistence of the smell must be maintained for at least 60 hours.

Perfumes of the "A" group include spirits containing, as a rule, at least 10% of the composition and having a fragrance lasting for at least 40 hours.

Spirits of the Extra and A groups are produced in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Perfumes of group "B" include spirits containing at least 5% of the composition and not more than 10% of water and have a smell persistence of at least 30 hours.

The group "B" perfumes include mainly perfumes with a floral scent, containing at least 5% of the composition and 30% of water. Odor persistence for at least 24 hours.

Spirits of groups "B" and "V" are produced in cases and without cases.

Colognes

These are aqueous-alcoholic solutions of perfume compositions with a floral or fantasy scent.

Colognes are used as hygienic, refreshing and flavoring agents.

Depending on the composition, colognes are divided into two groups: floral and hygienic,

Floral colognes are used as a hygiene and fragrance product. The hygienic value of colognes lies in the disinfecting and refreshing effect of alcohol and aromatic substances.

The group of floral colognes includes colognes with a fancy scent.

Colognes, like perfumes, according to the content of the composition (depending on the quality) are divided into four groups: extra, A, B and C.

Extra group colognes include premium quality colognes containing from 3 to 5% of the composition. Smell persistence not less than 24 hours. Produced in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Group A colognes include colognes containing 3 to 5% of the composition. Odor persistence for at least 24 hours.

Colognes of group B include colognes containing from 3 to 4% of the composition. Odor persistence is not standardized.

Colognes of group B include colognes containing from 2 to 3% of the composition. Odor persistence is not standardized.

Colognes of groups A, B and C are produced in a variety of cases and without them.

Hygienic colognes differ in that they are used only for hygienic purposes. Their smell should be pleasant, but not strong and not particularly persistent. The content of the composition is up to 2%, and citrus essential oils are included in the composition of hygienic colognes. The alcohol strength does not exceed 60%.

Toilet waters

Eau de toilette takes an intermediate place between perfume and cologne. It is a perfume with a relatively low odor. The content of the essential composition in the aqueous-alcoholic solution is usually from 3 to 10-15%. Eau de toilette is produced either as an independent product, or in a collection with the perfume of the same name. Eau de toilette contains impurities that determine its properties. The content of the fragrant composition in them is greater than in colognes, but less than in perfumes.

Cleansing preparations

4.1. Toilet soap

The earliest description of soap making was found on Sumerian clay tablets dating back to 2500 BC. The method was based on a mixture of wood ash and water, which was boiled and fat was melted in it, obtaining a soap solution. However, this solution did not have a definite name, there was no evidence of its use, and what is considered to be soap was not produced from it.

The invention of the soap itself is often attributed to the Romans and dates back to the first millennium BC. Legend has it that the word Soap comes from the name of Mount Sapo, on which sacrifices were made to the gods. A mixture of melted animal fat and wood ash from the sacrificial fire was washed away by the rain into the clay soil of the Tiber River bank. And the women who washed linen there noticed that thanks to this mixture, clothes are washed much easier.

Objective evidence of the emergence of handicraft soap making was obtained during the excavation of the ruins of the Roman city of Pompeii. Archaeologists have discovered a soap factory and found ready-made soap bars. As you know, the Romans were famous for their public baths - thermal baths, but washing was not the main purpose of visiting them. The Roman bath, like the Greek one, had a more social function - people gathered in a large pool, relaxed and had conversations. The soap that was produced at that time was too harsh for the skin and was only used for washing.

But the inhabitants of medieval Europe did not differ in cleanliness at all, which, among other things, caused terrible epidemics. The fashion for cleanliness returned to Europe only by the 17th century. At the same time, the craft of soap making was finally formed. The ingredients for making the soap varied from region to region. In the north, animal fat was used to make soap, and in the south, olive oil, thanks to which the soap is of excellent quality.

Patent for Purity: A major step towards widespread commercial soap production was taken in 1791, when French chemist Nicolas Leblanc patented a process for making soda ash from chalk, salt and charcoal. Twenty years later, another Frenchman, Michel Eugene Chevreul, established the chemical composition of fats and obtained fatty acids. These two discoveries fantastically laid the foundation for all modern soap making. Entrepreneurial people immediately realized the profits of making soap on an industrial scale. A stormy organization of "soap" companies and the widespread construction of soap factories began.

Modern bar soaps are vegetable and animal fats treated with caustic soda. Soda is taken, dissolved in water, heated, melted, purified and cooled lard is added to this solution and stirred until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting mixture is poured into molds and allowed to harden. The properties and quality of soap can be improved by adding coconut oil to its composition, which is widely used in cosmetics, including in the manufacture of liquid soaps and shampoos. Coconut oil makes the soap softer in action and increases its foaming properties.

Soap can be prepared in several ways: hot, cold, remelting and planing.

The foam that forms during lathering consists of fatty acid salts, which have the ability to break down fat. In addition, soap has an alkaline reaction, and all this in a certain way affects the condition of the skin. At the end of the day, makeup residues, dust, dirt accumulate on the skin, all this is held together by sweat and skin fat. Soap is able to break down sticky dirt by breaking down fats. But the skin has its own special fats - lipids. Soap foam does not understand where the necessary fats are and where the excess ones are, and destroys everything. Therefore, after washing, the skin becomes dry and sensitive.

Soap has now taken on a new context. Now it is becoming an elite product. The soap, which is being developed by modern cosmetologists, is significantly different from the one in which we understood in such detail. This soap does not dry the skin, it not only perfectly cleanses, but sometimes replaces the rest of the care - lotions, tonics, creams.

Toilet soap is produced in 4 groups: 1, 2, "Extra" and "D".

Soap requirements

1. Should form a stable foam.

2. Should dissolve impurities.

3. Should rinse off well.

4. Must have a pleasant smell and color.

5. Must not have harmful effects.

6. Must have a good aesthetic appearance.

Classification

Toilet soap. All the great variety of varieties of toilet soaps are created with the sole purpose of caring for the skin. Such soap should have a level of acidity close to neutral, and contain special components. So, toilet soaps are enriched with herbal extracts that soothe the skin; tonic fruit concentrates; almond, coconut oil and cocoa butter, which softens dry sensitive skin; nutritional components - milk proteins, lanolin, avocado oil; moisturizing agents - glycerin and aloe vera; as well as antioxidant vitamins: they protect the skin from premature aging.

Among the huge variety of varieties of toilet soaps, it is not difficult to choose the one that is right for your

Justification of relevance

Introduction

Purpose of the study

* Determination of the nature of the effect of fragrant substances on the human body
* Finding out the level of popularity of perfume

Tasks

* Explore various sources of information about the history, chemistry of ingredients and the effect of perfume on the human body
* Learn the classification of perfume
* Find out the rules for the selection and use of perfume
* Describe the biological mechanism of perception of aromas
* Conduct a sociological survey to determine the level of popularity of spirits

Hypothesis

* If we know the mechanism of perception of smells, then we can easily choose for ourselves the scent of perfume

Object of study

* Fragrances (mint, orange, pine, clove, lavender, eucalyptus)

Subject of study

* Influence of the investigated aromatic substances and their compositions on the state of human health

Theoretical part

Perfume chemistry

For the preparation of perfume compositions, more than three hundred natural and synthetic fragrances are used, obtained from plant, animal and chemical raw materials.

On average, the composition contains from 15 to 60 or more different fragrances. Usually the composition is 10-25% of the mass of perfume, in some perfumes - up to 50%.

Fragrant substances

The raw materials for aromatic substances of plant origin are, first of all, flower petals, fruits, leaves, roots of ether plants. From them, by means of steam distillation and extraction, essential oils are obtained or, upon further thickening, “flower lipstick”. Rose, coriander, sandalwood oils are used as independent aromatic substances. Patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, oak moss are used as infusions. As a rule, substances of plant origin make up the bulk of the aromatic mass of perfumes.

Fragrant substances of animal origin are used only in the form of infusions to fix the aroma. These include amber, musk, castoreum, and civetine. Raw materials of animal origin are more expensive than other components, but it is their presence or absence that determines the level of quality of the perfume.

Synthetic fragrances are chemically produced from substances of plant origin. As raw materials for their production, for example, coriander, sapphire, anise oil are used. This allows you to get aromas that have no analogues in nature.

Solvents and dyes

Ethyl alcohol of very high concentration (up to 96%) is used as a universal solvent. Recently discovered and little-known, but very effective, such a perfume solvent as Masculon (a mixture of ethyl alcohol and concentrated infusion of lungwort and valerian).

Dyes are used in the manufacture of perfumes. They are added to give the perfume liquid the desired color, which usually does not affect its aromatic properties. The dyes are added in the form of aqueous solutions.

The influence of perfume on the human body

Most people around the world have used perfume from time immemorial. Someone never changes their preferences, others, on the contrary, constantly experiment with fragrances, choosing them to suit their mood and a new image. However, only a few people think about how these beautiful creations are created that make our life either sweeter or more spicy. The influence of aromas on the human body is a delicate matter and requires a careful approach.

Today, more than ever, perfumes arouse interest and inflame passions, because every day they become more diverse and sophisticated. Perfumes for everyone and personalized options, fresh mornings and luxurious evenings. Scent is a way of perceiving the world. Each of us has 5 million sensory cells that allow us to appreciate all the delights of smell. It would be a shame not to use them. And for many millennia, mankind has not deprived itself of such pleasure: intoxicating incense for communicating with spirits, strong and musky aromas that drown out the smell of death, charming floral aromas, which were fragrant with marquises who know a lot about charm and love. The 20th century turned perfumers into true masters: perfumes began to be composed, just like an artist paints a picture. The most gifted have mastered the mysterious art, thanks to which rare spices, rose from Grasse and iris from Tuscany, were transformed into an endless number of unique fragrances.

A. Floral

Japanese scientists have studied the effect on the living organism of the substance linalool, which is responsible for the aromas present in the flowers of orange, grape, mango, lemon or lavender. Linalool is used in industrial production... But, as experiments have shown, this substance suppresses some changes in blood cells and genes responsible for stressful conditions. According to scientists, the fact that the effect of exposure to an odorous substance is detected through a blood test may allow in the future to move on to studying this effect in humans.

B. citrus

Citrus essential oils have been used as natural flavors to control emotions. So, the smell of lemon and orange essential oils soothes, helps to get rid of depression, anxiety, headache. Lemon and grefruit oils helped eliminate the effects of insect and snake bites toxins. Lemon fruits were considered an excellent remedy for slowing down the senility and aging of the body, and bergamot - for improving mood. During the Second World War, French doctors used lemon essential oil to disinfect wards (often in combination with clove and thyme) and to sterilize surgical instruments.

Modern aromatherapy and aromatherapy make extensive use of individual citrus essential oils and their compositions for the treatment and prevention of many diseases and painful conditions. Aromatization of premises with essential oils of lemon, tangerine, petitgrain, limette, bergamot, grapefruit promotes sanitation, air disinfection, saturation with useful ions and turns out to be very effective, for the prevention and treatment of many respiratory diseases, they are natural antiseptics, detoxicants (lemon) eliminate puffiness (lemon, grapefruit), strengthen the walls of blood vessels (lemon, especially in combination with cypress) and therefore their use in any way will help in the treatment and prevention of disorders of the musculoskeletal system, varicose veins, hypertension (lemon lowers blood pressure, especially in combination with lavender, marjoram and ylang-ylang). Citrus essential oils are well used in aroma cosmetics for the prevention and treatment of skin diseases (lemon, grapefruit), dry (orange), oily (bergamot, lemon, grapefruit), problem skin (bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, tangerine), cellulose orange, grapefruit, lemon combined with cypress, juniper), problem hair (orange, tangerine, grapefruit, lemon, lime), dandruff (orange, tangerine), brittle nails (lemon, bergamot), petitgrain grapefruit, tangerine, petitgrain, orange).

C. Woody

The family of woody fragrances is mainly represented by men's fragrances. It is a combination of warm, rich aromas of sandalwood and patchouli and sometimes dry scent of cedar and vetiver, with an invigorating freshness of lavender and citrus in the head "accord".

D. Spicy

Essential oils are very labile (functionally mobile) and therefore well communicate the body with nature. By inhaling the aroma of essential oil, we stimulate our sense of smell, which affects our emotions and gives us energy and vitality. Most spice oils are antiseptic and powerful natural antibiotics, antiviral and anti-inflammatory agents. This means that microbes, viruses, bacteria and other aggressive microcosm are losing in the battle with essential oils.

All spicy oils, without exception, have a tonic and warming effect. They stimulate surface receptors and increase blood circulation.

Eucalyptus properties

Eucalyptus has a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It is used internally for various coughs, diseases of the respiratory system, acute stomach, intestinal diseases, flu, colds. Topically, the tincture is used for rinsing and inhalation for diseases of the throat and respiratory tract (tonsillitis, laryngitis, runny nose, tracheitis, catarrhal and putrefactive bronchitis, lung abscesses). The tincture is used for lotions and washing for purulent ulcers, abscesses, phlegmon, purulent mastitis and some pustular skin diseases. The tincture is used for rubbing with sciatica, neuralgia, rheumatic pains.

Lavender properties

Lavender soothes the nervous system, helps to recuperate after emotional overload, relieves mood swings, calms anger and promotes mental clarity. Helps with hair loss, the bactericidal effect of the plant promotes the healing process. Lavender flowers are used to flavor baths.

Perfume production

There are two main types of receiving perfume -

* distillation (steam distillation process)
* enflerage (a process based on the absorption properties of fats).

During distillation, essential oils evaporate at a certain temperature and condense into a container along with water, but due to their low density, they end up on the surface. After which the oils are simply collected.

Anflerage is based on the sublimation of solids. Refined fat (mainly pigs) is used to capture vapors. Fat absorbs vapors of oils, and then, using the same distillation, they are separated. The good thing about this process is that it is possible to extract essential oils without subjecting the plants themselves or the objects from which they receive the scent to heat treatment.

Crystalline fragrances are preliminarily dissolved in alcohol or in one of the liquid non-volatile components.

Depending on the type of raw material, the process of extracting aromatic substances lasts from several hours to 1 year. For a more complete extraction of aromatic substances, the raw material is treated with alcohol 2-3 times.

How to choose the right perfume

There is one way to choose a perfume correctly and successfully: follow your instincts. Remember, each person has a different chemical composition of the skin, the glands work in different ways, and, accordingly, the combinations that perfume make up with the skin are different. That is why, never buy perfume just because you liked it on another woman. Such a mistake - by the way, one of the most common - leads to the fact that the smell of perfume disappears exactly five minutes after you put it on, or it smells completely different from what you would like. This is the main rule that should be followed when choosing a perfume: what goes to one woman does not necessarily go to another; a fragrance that persists and lasts a long time on her skin can instantly evaporate on yours. Your skin and hers may show completely different notes of the same perfumery scent, and accordingly the results will be strikingly different. When choosing a perfume, think only about what you like, and not about what new items the magazine advertises. Use testers, put your favorite scents on your wrist - you will immediately understand which fragrance will last for you, and which one does not last on your skin. It doesn't make sense to buy perfume if no one can smell it, including you.

Practical part

Extraction of odorants

Extraction of odorants from the following substances: peppermint, pine needles, cloves, orange peel. Essential oils are difficult to dissolve in water, but easily in alcohol.

Pour 0.5-2 ml of carboxylic acid into burettes with ground-in stoppers
Grind the plant raw materials in a mortar and place them in these burettes.
Closing the plugs
We leave for a day
We filter and wet the strips of paper in the resulting oily mass

Composing compositions

Using essential oils: lavender, bergamot, citrus, eucalyptus; ethyl alcohol, filter paper.

Pour butyl alcohol + acetic acid into a test tube, 0.5–2 ml each






Got a strong fruity smell

Pour ethyl alcohol + butanoic acid into a test tube, 0.5–2 ml each
Add 5-10 drops of sulfuric acid
Several grains of table salt
Place the test tube in boiling water for 3-5 minutes (under a draft)
Cool and pour into a glass with cold water
Ether gathers on the surface of the water
Wet a strip of paper in the resulting ether
Got a pineapple smell

As a result of my research, I have obtained essential oils of the following substances: peppermint, pine needles, cloves, orange, eucalyptus and lavender. The most successful combination was Eucalyptus and Lavender.

Sociological survey results

Final part

As a result of the research, I concluded that the use of fragrant substances has a beneficial effect on the human body, if they are used in moderation and for their intended purpose. Many essential oils have a healing effect on a person, aromatic substances help to improve mood and well-being. The aromas of a perfume are determined by the substances with the lowest level of evaporation, which remain on the skin for the longest time. Clothes, especially woolen clothes, that have been contaminated with perfume droplets can sometimes retain their scent for several months. Awakening imagination, positive emotions and improving mood.

Shatilova Maria
10B class

Supervisor:

Ignatushina G.L., a chemistry teacher.

MOU "Secondary School No. 64"
Novokuznetsk

To create scents, perfumers use a huge assortment of fragrant raw materials - in total, there are more than five thousand items; Among them, a large place is occupied by natural aromatic substances obtained from plants.

Fragrant plants to obtain essential oil from them are grown in the Caucasus, Crimea, Moldova, Central Asia, the Central Black Earth Region, and Ukraine. These are mainly coriander, rose, cumin, fennel, clary sage, geranium, mint, lavender, anise, jasmine, oakmoss, azalea, cistus and others.

Up to 90% of the obtained essential oils are used only by the perfumery and cosmetic industry, the rest are used for the food industry and for scenting household chemicals (laundry detergents) and toilet soap.

Natural fragrances are obtained from fresh and dried plant parts mainly by distillation, pressing (squeezing) or extraction with various solvents.

Plants containing a small amount of essential oils are subjected to distillation with water vapor: for example, coriander seed (fruit) contains about one percent of essential oil; from one ton of fresh rose petals, one to two kilograms of rose oil is obtained. The distillation takes place at a high temperature, and some of the constituent parts of the oils leave with the distillation waters, therefore the smell of the oil changes and usually deteriorates significantly compared to the smell of the petals.

The peel of the fruit of lemons, oranges, tangerines, orange and others, which contain a significant amount of relatively easily separated oil (for example, a fresh orange peel contains about 3% oil), is subjected to squeezing (pressing).

Some plants - flowers of lilac, lily of the valley, acacia - when heated, generally change the smell and give a completely unusable product, therefore, when they are processed, distillation is replaced by extraction with volatile solvents or liquefied gases. The solvent is distilled off from the extracts, and the so-called extract oils are obtained in the residue. Due to the fact that the distillation of the solvent is carried out at a low temperature, the smell of the extract oils corresponds to the smell of the feedstock. Along with fragrant substances, the extract oils also contain vegetable waxes, resins, passed from raw materials; such oils are mostly solid, they are called concrete. When concrete is dissolved in alcohol, waxes and part of the resins precipitate and an almost pure, so-called absolute oil, remains in the solution. Essential oils, concretes and absolutes are obtained from a wide variety of seeds, flowers, peels, mosses, leaves, plants (for example, from rose flowers, jasmine, and others).

Vegetable raw materials are often used for the preparation of alcoholic infusions, especially when it is desirable to better preserve the smell of the raw materials and extract with it the accompanying resinous and other substances (infusions, for example, vanilla pods, iris root, cloves, oakmoss, are often used).

Many fragrant resinous substances obtained as a result of cuts in plants are of great importance. Most often, benzoin gum (dew incense), incense, tolu balsam, and styrax are used in perfumery.

Resinous substances give a great lasting odor. They are the strongest phytoncides and are suitable for the production of air purifying and disinfecting agents.

In the assortment of "fragrant" raw materials, an important place also belongs to fragrant substances of animal origin. We are talking about the dried glands of some male animals (musk ox - musk deer, beaver and, less often, muskrat) and secretions of other organs. Musk musk deer is found in the forested mountainous regions of Central Asia and Siberia. Cybet is the secretion of the glands of the civet cat that lives in North Africa and Asia; ambergris - secretion of the sperm whale (waxy mass).

Musk and ambergris, which were used in antiquity as an independent sense of smell, are now used only to enrich perfume compositions. Ambergris gives the composition a special warmth, bright illumination. Musk, in addition to the influence of its own peculiar smell, has the ability to ennoble, round off the scent of the composition, to give the perfume refinement and temperament. The temperament of French perfumes is largely due to the presence of a large amount of substances with an animal scent in them. In addition, by affecting the nervous system, musk and ambergris sharpen the sensitivity, increase the duration of the perception of odors.

The role of animal scents in perfumery is so great that without them it is now difficult to imagine a full-fledged perfume; they are an indispensable part of the means for scenting skin, hair or dress.

Fragrant substances of animal origin are also valuable because they establish harmony between the smell of perfume and the skin of a person, as if they relate these smells, serve between them in the middle, make the smell of perfume as if peculiar to a person, inherent in him. In literary works, the idea is often expressed about the emotional influence of the wonderful smells of healthy clean skin and hair, and in everyday life, for some reason, this is sometimes shyly kept silent about. Meanwhile, this influence should not be forgotten, since perfumes that are not in harmony with the smell of the skin and hair make an unpleasant impression. Perfumers remember this well and the consumer should not forget about it.

Until the beginning of the 19th century, it was believed that essential oils are a homogeneous substance, more or less contaminated with any impurities. However, it turned out that this is far from the case: essential oils are a combination of a large (and often very large) number of chemically individual fragrant substances, each of which has its own smell, but one or two substances prevail in them that determine the main smell of an essential oil. At the same time, they contain small impurities with a weak odor or odorless, which play an important role, "rounding" the smell or giving it stability.

Even small admixtures of "impurities" change the smell of essential oil sometimes beyond recognition.

The impetus for the development of industrial synthesis of aromatic substances was the synthesis of vanillin. Through the work of domestic and foreign scientists, the constituent parts of many essential oils were isolated in pure form. The study of their chemical composition began, which led to the synthesis of the main fragrant substances that determine the pleasant smell of these oils.

Currently, about 80% of synthetic fragrances are used in perfumery, cosmetics, soap, food and other industries. The production of synthetic fragrances has become possible only thanks to the high development of chemical science and industry. Scientists have synthesized a huge amount of fragrant substances, both having analogues in nature and not found. The production of not only fragrant substances was organized, the synthesis of which was first carried out by foreign scientists, but also completely new fragrant substances: such as tibetolide, mustin, sangalidol, myrcenol and many others, which make it possible to replace natural fragrant substances (for example, santalidol largely replaces sandalwood oil) and create high quality products.

It should be borne in mind that the synthesis of fragrant substances belongs to a subtle, very complex, chemical technology, and even insignificant impurities, the presence of which is sometimes impossible to determine by conventional chemical or physical methods, are easily caught by the sense of smell; and thus prevent the use of the entire product.

Of the most widely used synthetic fragrances in perfumery, we note only a few with an indication of the base of the smell: benzyl acetate (jasmine smell), vanillin (vanilla smell), geraniol, phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol (rose smell), citral (lemon smell), hydroxycitronellal and linalool ( the smell of lily of the valley), terpineol (the smell of lilac), heliotropin (the smell of heliotrope), yonone (the smell of violets), coumarin (the smell of hay) and many others.

It is pertinent to ask the question: can synthetic fragrances completely replace natural fragrances? No! Synthetic fragrant substances, if they are of a floral nature, determine only the main feature of the smell of plants (and even then not completely), they only resemble the smell of this or that plant substance, but this is not its very smell. They are deprived of that charm of smell, that color (timbre), sonority, velvety, orchestration of smell, which are inherent in natural fragrant substances.

It is impossible to completely replace natural fragrant substances with synthetic ones: only a combination of both makes it possible to create truly full-fledged works.

Synthetic aromatic substances deservedly occupy a very significant place in modern perfumery: without them, perfumery would have remained, perhaps, mainly at the level of the Middle Ages.

All perfumery and cosmetic products and toilet soaps contain synthetic fragrances. Without them, it would have been impossible to get all the variety of high quality products that we have at present. The word "synthetics" in this case means not only the replacement of natural aromatic substances with artificial ones, but also the creation of substances with new smells that do not exist in nature, and new valuable properties (persistence, originality and beauty of the smell). The abundance of synthetic and natural fragrant substances required, in order to facilitate and enhance the creative possibilities of the perfumer, the search for some so-called intermediate compositions, or bases, which are a harmonious combination of fragrant substances. These bases are unfinished compositions, they play the same role as chords and melodies in music. These are separate sketches, fragments that perfumers use in their further work.

As we have already said, there are about five thousand names of fragrant substances in total, and the bases consist of many (mostly within ten, or even more) fragrant substances. Therefore, when choosing a basis for a new smell or improving an existing one, the perfumer does not need to memorize the smells of all fragrant substances and scatter his attention.

The bases - the leading or auxiliary "segments" of the scent - are independent, complete, therefore, modern perfumery cannot exist without these bases.

The highest percentage of perfumery raw materials is ethyl (wine) alcohol of the highest purity. It plays the role of a fragrance solvent, refreshing and disinfecting agent. The strength of alcohol in perfumes ranges from 96.2 to 60%, and in colognes - from 75 to 60%.

From all these fragrant substances by their harmonious combination, perfumers prepare compositions - complete works of perfumery art, which in the form of perfumes, colognes, eau de toilette and other things reach the consumer.

11 july 2018

Fragrant plant resins - substances of natural origin, organic polymer compounds with a characteristic odor, good viscosity. They become hard when they freeze. Resins are widely used in the preparation of cosmetics. Production of perfumery, soap, detergents, air fresheners, other products for hygiene, home improvement. Often used as incense during aromatherapy and other wellness rituals. Due to their biologically active properties, fragrant compounds are widely used in folk medicine, are used to treat external and internal diseases. How are they mined? Collected by natural excretion from plants, by forced mechanical incision of tree bark.

Composition, biological activity

Resins belong to the category of energetic organic compounds, where the main components are di-terpene compounds, cyclic acids. There are also esters of resin acids, alcohols, tannins, hydrocarbons, phenols, etc. Substances are non-volatile, differ in high viscosity, soluble in alcohols, other organic, inorganic solvents. As for the connection with other components, they are mainly present in a complex with essential oils.

Resins are ranked among the few natural creations that can protect, save from all diseases. Therefore, they are so often called resin, that is, living substances filled with vitality. The amazing longevity, the strongest biological activity of resins is explained by their unique natural properties.

• Resinous substances are considered one of the compounds most resistant to negative environmental factors.
• It has a depressing effect on pathogenic microflora of any origin. All due to the fact that they have pronounced antiseptic, antibacterial properties that persist for millennia.

How do you get the plant resin? By collecting from trees, sources of the most valuable natural product.

Classification by mining method, physical parameters, quality

According to the method of extraction, substances are divided into several types:

1. Resin of one kind is collected from natural, special cuts on the bark, from where a fragrant, sticky mass flows, which is subsequently subjected to distillation.
2. A substance of another type is collected in the form of a semi-solidified mass, which is mostly concentrated on the branches of resinous plants. After collecting, the twigs are immersed in boiling water, where the detachment of resinous structures occurs.

According to physical indicators, substances are:

• Soft, which include almost all species harvested from plants.
• Hard, like amber. Collected from several types of trees, such as cedar, larch, pine, and other conifers.

As for the qualitative characteristics, substances are:

• The highest grade, collected from the uppermost layers, perfectly clean, free of foreign inclusions, impurities. Used for fumigation, incense making, beauty industry products, medical purposes.
• Grade II, collected mainly from the middle layers. They contain impurities of tree bark, which gets into the collection. They are used for incense, incense, making natural cosmetics.
• III grade in quality, medicinal characteristics are not inferior to the previous ones. They differ in that they contain a large percentage of all kinds of impurities: fragments of bark, dust, sand, grasses, animal hair, parts of bird feathers. For purification, subsequent use, they need preliminary filtration.

The main types of plant resins

Name	What plants are extracted from, properties
	The oldest, most popular of the existing species. It is extracted from a tree native to the Arabian Peninsula, in the countries of North Africa. When burned, it emits a rich, pleasant smell, which explains its widespread use for fumigating rooms, making aroma sticks, and other incense. By the way, this assortment of products is on sale. Frankincense is also in demand in church rituals, has long been used for Christian, Islamic, Buddhist ritual ceremonies. It has also found application in perfumery, it is added to various aroma compositions, hygiene products, caring cosmetics.
	Due to its unique medicinal and cosmetic properties, it is considered a valuable ingredient. According to the beliefs of many peoples, she is endowed with the ability to inflame passion, attract positive, bring good luck in business, prosperity to the house. If we talk about folk medicine, aloe resin is widely used to prepare agents that strengthen blood vessels, the heart, improve the condition of the skin, increase local, general immunity.
Sandalwood	Extracted from the trunk of an evergreen sandal tree growing in Indonesia, India. Contains valuable components with antibacterial, antimicrobial, wound healing effects. It has a pronounced pleasant aroma, is considered a natural aphrodisiac, and is widely used in aromatherapy, the incense industry, cosmetic and medicinal purposes.
	Extraction is carried out from trees of the legume family growing in Central and South America. It is used in cosmetology, for ritual ceremonies, for making incense. Before the production of synthetic polymer resins was established, copal was used to produce varnish for wood coatings.
Cedar	Extracted from Lebanese cedar, which grows in Lebanon. An analogous substance can be considered a similar substance extracted from cedar, which grows in the Far East, in Siberia. Possesses a pronounced pleasant smell, is actively used in aromatherapy, classical, folk medicine. Goes to release camphor, turpentine.
Goferovaya	Obtained from the Gopher tree, which has unique properties... The plant is ranked among the hardest, less than other breeds are subject to wormholes, rotting, and other damage. Resin has been used since ancient times, it is considered the best remedy for problems with the skin, for inflammation, and infection of soft tissues.
Muira Pauma	It is extracted from Lyriosma ovate wood, a crop native to South America. It is considered one of the strongest drugs that increase blood pressure, refers to powerful stimulants of sexual function, the central nervous system.
Stucky, myrrh,	Extracted from the trunk of a tree growing on the coast of the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, in the countries of the South African continent. The resin, which has a pleasant smell, has been considered very valuable since ancient times. Previously, it was especially in demand in Egypt, Rome, Greece, European countries, as it was used for embalming, anointing the bodies of the dead. Today, it is mainly used for the fumigation of premises, rooms, sacred anointing, and other religious rituals.
Sandarac	It is obtained after cutting the bark of a culture whose habitat is Algeria, the vastness of North-West Africa. It is used for cosmetic, medicinal purposes, often for the production of plasters.
Benzoin	Obtained from the trunk of a styrax tree, which is believed to be home to Palestine. The reddish-brown thick, thick substance is widely used for ceremonies, rituals, incense, making smoking powder mixtures.
	Extracted from a plant called Pistacia Lentiscus, the natural habitat of which is the countries of the Mediterranean, the coast of Africa. How is it applied? In dentistry for filling teeth, in the treatment of stomatitis, gingivitis, in folk medicine, pharmacology - for the preparation of the strongest wound healing ointments, mixtures, tinctures.
Finwood resin	It is obtained from a plant that looks like a cypress tree. It has a very pronounced aroma, it used to be worth its weight in gold, it was equal in value to precious stones. It is appreciated for its aroma and unique medicinal properties.
	The oleoresin of conifers is formed for millennia in the course of repeated oxidation, followed by polymerization of woody resinous components. Possesses the strongest positive energy, is popular in cosmetologists, traditional, alternative medicine. Suitable for water purification, it is considered the strongest antiscorbutic agent. Amber helps to cope with diseases of the respiratory and digestive organs, is useful for heart ailments, obstructed outflow of urine. Due to its powerful antibacterial, antiseptic properties, it is used to treat asthmatic attacks, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, various external and internal suppurations.
Halavan	It is obtained from the wood of the halavan plant. Natural habitat of culture - Abyssinia, Syria, Arabia. The substance has a pleasant, pronounced aroma, is used for aromatic incense, preparation of medicines.
Arabian juniper	It is extracted from a plant of the Juniper family that grows in the Arabian Peninsula. For thousands of years it has been used for fumigation, preparation of medicinal potions.

Application in traditional medicine

How are raw materials from tree trunks used in folk medicine, for home use?

• They are added to relaxing, therapeutic and prophylactic baths that help with stress, nervous, physical exhaustion, dermatological problems.
• They drip into household humidifiers, aroma lamps to freshen the air, obtain a fragrant atmosphere that strengthens the immune system by eliminating bacteria and microbes.
• They are added to toothpastes, oral hygiene products to prevent tooth decay, periodontal disease, stomatitis, to cope with diseases, if they already exist.
• They are used in cosmetics: creams, lotions, masks, tonics for problem skin of the face, neck, for the prevention of aging, the fight against acne, acne, comedones, and other skin rashes.
• It is added to massage oil to heal the body, normalize sleep, strengthen the immune system, and improve overall well-being.

Prescriptions for treatment and prevention

Problem
Cracked lips, corners of the mouth, furunculosis, eczema, stomach ulcer	The raw materials are mixed with sea buckthorn oil in a 1: 2 ratio, boiled in a water bath for 2-3 minutes. The mixture is removed from the heat, cooled, used to lubricate problem areas, ingested ½ tsp. 2-3 times a day.
Toothaches, sprains, fractures	For toothache, resin is applied to the sore gum, aching tooth. In case of fractures, sprains, bruises, a substance is applied to the damaged area.
Respiratory diseases	The raw materials are burned, the vapors are inhaled, repeating the procedure 3-5 times a day. With tuberculosis, pneumonia, and other ailments, the resin is absorbed in the mouth, which brings relief and promotes a speedy recovery.
	A cotton pad, a swab is moistened in a mixture of resin and vegetable oil taken in equal proportions... Make applications, applying every 2-3 hours.
Backache, back stiffness, pinching of the spinal, lumbar nerve	30 ml of raw materials are used to massage problem areas. For a complete recovery, it is necessary to carry out at least 13-15 sessions.
To strengthen the immune system	A powder is prepared from the resin, for which it is first frozen, then pounded. The finished powder is taken in ½ tsp. 3-4 times a day, preferably before meals.

In the online store "Golden Dragon" there are many products for health, beauty and youth preservation. Many of them also contain resin or wood sap. It is found in products for women, TCM preparations, Chinese plasters, and other health products. Interested in real teas, tea utensils? There is a large selection. Do you want to buy herbal teas brought from China, from Altai? A large selection is presented. Do you need souvenirs and jewelry for a gift, for personal use? Pay attention to the products we offer in this section. Still have questions? Ask our managers by phone: 8-800-511-09-08.

Ambergris is an aromatic, waxy gray animal substance formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales and consisting of 80% cholesterol. In perfumery, an ambergris infusion is used, which can fix the smell. Ambergris imparts great persistence to the scent of perfume.

Musk is an enzyme secreted by the endocrine glands of the male musk deer and musk rats. Musks have a strong and persistent characteristic scent, capable of fixing and ennobling the scent of a perfume composition. Natural musks are very expensive and are used in minimal doses; therefore, vegetable and synthetic musks are increasingly used. Vegetable musk is found in hibiscus seeds, angelica roots, etc.

Semi-synthetic fragrances

Geraniol is derived from citronella oil. It is an alcohol that is esterified with various low molecular weight organic acids. This produces esters with an unusually subtle odor. One of the examples of such ethers is ether acetic acid- geraniol acetate.

Methylgeraniol is an example of how fragrances can be made semisynthetically from many complex natural products.

Synthetic fragrances

Of the aromatic substances produced by a synthetic method, the best known is bitter almond oil, which is obtained from apricot kernels, and synthetic musk.

Synthetic musk refers to two groups of organic compounds. The first group - nitromusuett compounds - are nitro derivatives of benzene, oxygen, etc. Their trade names are musksiol, musketone, Tibetan musk, Musk amrette, musken, etc. Another group is polycyclic compounds known under the trade names AHTN, NNSV, etc. The carriers of the musk scent are macrocyclic ketones and lactones.

On the other hand, synthetic compounds with a pleasant smell have been developed, which have no analogues in nature.

Dyes

Dyes are natural or synthetic substances used to color cosmetics.

Can be inorganic or organic. By solubility, they are divided into water or oil soluble. The color fastness depends on the resistance of the dye to UV radiation, Temperature, microorganisms, pH of the medium, the composition of the composition (for example, the presence of inorganic salts). The color retention time is ultimately determined by the composition of the formulation, the concentration of the dye, the time of exposure to the adverse factor, and the type of packaging. Due to the possible harmful effects, the use of dyes in cosmetics is strictly regulated. All synthetic dyes must be certified. Only natural dyes (vegetable, animal or mineral origin) are allowed for use without certification. Recently, natural plant dyes have been actively used, which include azulene, azorubin, annatto, hyporizin, indigo, henna, etc., as well as mineral dyes - iron oxide dyes, green chromium oxides; ultramarines, etc.

Dyes used in cosmetics should not irritate the skin and cause allergies, and most importantly, they should not be poisonous. In addition, the dye must retain the desired color for a long time.

Among the dyes, acid, alkaline and neutral dyes are distinguished; basic, as well as slightly soluble.

Basic dyes- a group of dyes that give bright colors based on a mixture of soluble salts of mineral or organic acids.

Low soluble dyes- dyes, insoluble in water and soluble in organic media; contain alcohols, oils, fats, waxes.

FD&C - approved "in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

D&C - in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.

Ext.D & C - for external use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Acid dyes... Acid dye molecules are often based on cyclic organic compounds derived from coal tar; one or more acidic sulfonic or carboxyl groups are attached to the aromatic nuclei.

Dyes of the acidic group can be obtained from solutions using, for example, tannic acid, converting them into an insoluble coloring pigment. This procedure is often carried out at the same time as dyeing.

Alkaline dyes. There are much less alkaline dyes than acid dyes. The molecules of the dyes included in this group contain one or more amino groups, which gives the compounds an alkaline character.

Neutral dyes. The molecules of neutral dyes do not contain any significant acidic or alkaline groups. By their chemical structure, they are quite diverse, do not dissolve in water, and are resistant to acid and alkali. Some neutral dyes dissolve in organic solvents.