Classification of drinking establishments of the world. Kabaki in Russia history control, Egzaminy from History

Drinking establishments around the world have a wide classification. Some have sunk into oblivion, others have ceased to exist as "anti-popular", while others have improved. Drinking establishments have been known since the 18th century BC, in Babylon there were capnelias in the ports, in Rome tabernas (table, board).

Slavic world

Tavern- a drinking house, indemnity, with a free sale, sometimes an inn with the sale of spirits. The name was circulated before the October Revolution in Ukraine and Belarus, southern Russia. In Russia, after the establishment of the tavern by Ivan the Terrible, the tavern was gradually replaced. Almost all Slavs have traces of a tavern since the 11th century. The oldest drinks sold in the tavern are kvass, beer and honey. Almost every town had one inn, and others had two or more.

Tavern- a common Slavic institution. Common Slavic and culinary recipes. The origin of the word tavern (originally feeding) is interpreted differently. Some of the researchers of antiquity, going back to antiquity, are looking for the root of this word in Persian, Zend, Arabic and Turkish, while others, on the contrary, stop only in Slavic, claiming that the name of the tavern is nothing but a derivative of the word "feed". The latter interpretation is considered by many to be more plausible, if only because it comes closest to the immediate tasks of the tavern, which consisted mainly in feeding and watering the people visiting it. Whatever the origin of this word, the tavern is a primordially Slavic institution. This is a historical fact to which there is no objection. Usually a large rectangular room, like a barracks, barracks. The Western Slavs have brick, stone. The eastern and southern ones have wooden, log cabins.

As for ancient Russia, the free inn was considered the most indigenous institution in it. Where she appeared, there was a large population and wide trade, and vigorous activity. Kiev is the cradle of the tavern. Novgorod, Pskov and Smolensk, the main centers of its location. Here the need for social life was in full swing, while in Suzdal, Vladimir and Moscow, where the tavern was still absent, even the slightest movement was imperceptible. But over time, the inn also captured North-Eastern Russia, immediately raising its interest in public life.

Shinok- Drink house, tavern, tavern. Historically, the name was used in Poland, Ukraine, Belarus
(1.histor. In pre-revolutionary Russia - a small drinking establishment
"Thus, as soon as the devil hid his month in his pocket, suddenly all over the world it became so dark that not everyone would find their way to the shank, not only to the clerk." N.V. Gogol. "Christmas Eve". 2.razg. restaurant, bar, etc.)
Comes from Wed-in-German. schenke, schenk "tavern, tavern, tavern". Russian. shinok (also old shink - from 1697), as well as Ukrainian. shink, shino? k, belor. shynk, - borrowing. via Polish. szynk "restaurant". Arose in Ukraine in the second half of the 16th century. Rzeczpospolita provoked the appearance of shinks. A small drinking establishment, with a small seating area, 3-5 tables. There was no music in the shank in winter, as the musicians were placed outside during the warm season. The cuisine was Ukrainian. Most of the holders were Jews, Jews as they were called at the time. In the event of popular unrest, declarations of war or uprisings, the first to suffer are the shinkari. There was also a family row. The man worked in the hall, the wife cooked, the children played the role of musicians (violinists).

Tavern- a place for the sale of state-owned vodka. 1550 - the first tavern in Moscow under Ivan the Terrible for the guardsmen. Began to bring in a lot of income. There was no snack to get drunk faster. The tavern was considered a hot spot, the contingent was not the best. At the end of the 17th century, under Peter I, snacks appear: pickled apples, sauerkraut, salted milk mushrooms. The taverns were closed as anti-national institutions in 1861 under Alexander II.

Restaurants- tract, road (Mongolian). 20s of the 18th century. They appeared at road stations where horses were changed - pits. By the way, this is where the word coachman comes from. A traveler at such stations could rest, and the horses were also given rest. Served tea, snacks, rarely hot food. In the mid-60s of the 19th century, city taverns appeared. Placed in basement, semi-basement rooms. A new form of service - sexual, ancestors of the waiters. They worked without a salary, demanded a tip, were even ready to wipe the guests' beards with towels. An extensive entertainment program, singing romances (chanson), a gypsy choir, violinists. Extensive menu, lots of snacks. Booths appeared, prices were cheap, that is, they were designed for different segments of the population. They survived the revolution, but ceased to exist in the 30s of the 20th century.

Kolyba- Carpathian drinking and food establishment. Basically Lviv and Ivano-Frankivsk regions, Carpathians, Slovakia, Romania.

Gentlemen- a small Czech pub where you can dine. The walls are covered with dark brown planks. Additional drinks - plum vodka.

A restaurant from fr. restaurer, restore, strengthen) - enterprise Catering with a wide range of dishes complex preparation, including customized and branded; wine and vodka, tobacco and confectionery products, an increased level of service in combination with the organization of recreation.

Sometimes restaurants are located in larger establishments, such as hotels, where catering services are provided for the convenience of residents and to increase the potential income of the hotel.

The owner of a restaurant business is called a restaurateur; both words are derived from the French verb restaurer (to restore, strengthen, feed). It should be noted that a restaurant in American English is any catering establishment in general, and not just a restaurant.

USA
Bar... Of course, there was no such state at that time, there were so-so, separate states. The most realistic version is that the word "bar" is an abbreviation for the word barrier. Since the "gold rush" began in California in 1870. The seekers spent their free time in drinking establishments, drank their gold, fought and fired. Therefore, the person who served them had to come up with a barrier, a method of protection, so that the guest would not reach him. Such protection was a wide slab, a board that separated the visitor from the owner. Here's a BARrier, and the person who was behind the barrier began to be called a bartender. In 1920-1921, bars spread widely in Europe and began again from Paris. American soldiers after the First World War did not particularly want to return home and settled in Paris. New York Paris Club, the first bar in Paris in 1921. After World War II, bars spread all over the world. In the USSR, the first bar opened at the Intourist Hotel in Moscow in 1959. More spread occurred in 1979-1980 during the Olympics.

Germany
The Germans in the Middle Ages had herberki... They are characterized by a building in the shape of a circle, a pavilion, like a detached house. Were also popular kellers, basements, beer cellars. By the way, from the word keller, comes "waiter" that is, the waiter, this word is still in everyday life in Poland and in some parts of Germany.
England
In England - guesthouses... Wine, beer, whiskey and other spirits were served. By the way, for the first time in these establishments, linen tablecloths and napkins were used. Pubs- these are port pubs, for dockers, they served mostly ale, women were not allowed in pubs and it was only a male establishment. The 17th century Irish pub differs significantly from the English one. You can meet women, there is strong alcohol (whiskey), food, pork ribs, meat dishes, celebrated the celebrations.

France
There is more choice of establishments where you can spend your free time.
Cabaret nue a small institution, in the form of a home living room (most likely they became the prototype of lounge bars), upholstered furniture, a piano. For rich bachelors, but without sex, men who were on business trips and homesick, also had homemade food, that is, what the hostess put on the table and then ate, there was no choice. On the shelves were cookbooks different countries and the guest could even choose some familiar dish that was prepared especially for him. The establishments were named after the first mistress.

Cabaret- spectacular institutions, people have already come to them for spectacles, have a nice time, get to know each other, communicate. The main show was variety show (cancan), clowning, pantomime, performances by artists. Desserts were served, sparkling wines were present.

Bistro- have a very interesting history. After the victory of Napoleon Bonaparte, Russian troops were stationed in Paris. Cossacks, who did not have time, ran into any drinking establishment, regardless of class, audience or price, and shouted from the doorway "quickly, quickly pour a drink." They literally ate a piece of bread, ran out, sat on their horse. That is why savvy Parisians opened bistro establishments. In the Soviet era, such establishments were called FAC, that is, "coffee, water, juices". One, two tables, assortment of 2 types of vodka, three types of fortified wines, 2-3 types of snacks. He drank and went further on his business.

Cafe- were founded in London, around 1652, but popularized by France. In Marseille, in 1671, a cafe opens, of course it bears its name from the word "coffee". Croissants, liqueurs and cognac were also served. And, of course, the drink of kings is hot chocolate. Only later did they begin to offer various kinds of snacks and hot dishes. Tavern- tavern on the road. Also a French adventure. It was mainly held by wealthy peasants. Served homemade food, red wine. In Spain, Portugal and Italy, seafood, rum, brandy were served in taverns.
Restoration- originated in Paris at the beginning of the 18th century. At that time, the people ate mostly dry food, firewood was expensive and only wealthy people could light the stove for cooking. Parisian innkeeper Boumagne hangs up a signboard "Stomach Restoration". Grated mashed soups, broths, crumpled eggs, broths were offered. Competitors also began to introduce such dishes, they only hang signs "Restoration", which later turned into restaurants. Menus have appeared, guests have a choice of dishes. In the 20s of the 18th century, restaurants appeared in the Russian Empire, and, of course, in St. Petersburg. Small establishments, 5-10 tables. The dishes were taken out by the chef himself, the cuisine is usually French. In the first half of the 19th century, restaurants acquire the classic look we know to this day. The essence: the hall is located on the second floor, where the main staircase, cloakroom, doorman, high ceilings lead. Evening dresses, neckline, tailcoats, tuxedos. They go to these establishments in order to communicate, have a good time, and eat delicious dishes.

Creating a detailed description of the young Russian capital in 1749-1751, A.I.Bogdanov recalled that “ from the first years here, under the reigning St. Petersburg, two noble Drinking Houses were set up, in which various state drinks of different tastes were sold, vodka is expensive for sale to noble people…»

One of them - especially revered and visited by Peter I - "Austeria on the St. Petersburg Side, on the Troitskaya pier, at the Petrovsky bridge." On holidays, Tsar Peter appeared in it "with noble persons and ministers, before dinner for a glass of votka."

The second " Austeria on the same St. Petersburg Island, in Bolshoi Nikolskaya street, built in a mazankovaya, in 1719". These were establishments for noble persons.

There were other attractive places as well. For example, "taverns, or drinking houses, where wine, vodka, beer and honey are sold in small glasses for the good of the people."

In 1750-1751, there were 121 taverns in the city. They were located very unevenly. There are 30 taverns on the St. Petersburg Island, 48 taverns on the Admiralteyskaya side, 19 taverns on the Liteinaya side, only 10 taverns on the Vyborgskaya side, and 14 taverns on Vasilievsky Island.

At first, the Drinking Houses were at the mercy of the local merchants. This led to a lot of abuse.

Peter I decided to find more worthy rulers. He tried to appoint merchants from among the newcomers, then he identified schismatics and bearded men as kissers (that is, owners and tenants of taverns) (after all, they were stubborn and fought for their faith), but settled on retired soldiers and non-commissioned officers. After the death of Peter I, the local merchants won the fight for taverns again.

During the time of Peter I, taverns or "Tavern Houses" appeared, selling grape wines, French vodka, and beer. In the taverns, billiard tables were installed. The first "Tavern House" was built in 1720 on Troitskaya Pier not far from the Peter and Paul Fortress and was often visited by the tsar himself.

But after 20 years, the sale of vodka and beer, as well as the game of billiards, were banned in taverns. In taverns, only grape wine and food began to be served. Instead of "Tavern Houses", drinking cellars with overseas grape wines were allowed. By 1750, there were already 65 such cellars in the city.

It was possible to eat in numerous taverns and in "Tavern Kushanya" (special Houses for foreign cuisine).

The first hotels - "Inns" appeared in 1723 on the St. Petersburg island in the area of ​​the future Petrovskaya embankment and on the Liteinaya side. But they did not take root. More fortunate was the Postal Yard on the Admiralty side, which was located near the Summer Garden not far from the ferry to the Troitskaya pier. It was built in 1714, was visited many times by the tsar and served as a venue for festivities - “victorial celebrations”.

By the beginning of the 19th century, restaurants, cafes, taverns, taverns became widespread in St. Petersburg. Increasingly, taverns play the role of not only drinking establishments, but also accommodation for visitors. It was the prototype of modern hotels and restaurants. The largest taverns - the taverns of Demuth, Bordeaux, Nord - had "quite decent" furnished rooms.

Petersburg cafes of that time were establishments for ordinary people, for artisans, workers, people from the lower classes. According to the traveler G.T. Faber, who visited St. Petersburg in 1811, "the establishments called cafes in St. Petersburg are not worthy of this name."

Restaurants appeared in St. Petersburg at the end of the 18th century. The first restaurateurs in St. Petersburg were the French. The revolutionary events of 1789 forced many French people to emigrate to Russia, primarily to the capital on the Neva. Among them were chefs, cooks, and pastry chefs.

Under the northern sky, they continued their usual business, to the obvious delight of the "golden" youth of the capital and all foreigners. Many of them have opened restaurants and coffee houses. The predominance of the French line in the restaurant business was felt until the middle of the 19th century.

The most impressive were the restaurants that were "no worse than the Parisian ones." In them, lunch cost 3-4 rubles, liqueurs and wines, tokay, cognac, kirschwasser were served. There were no strong drinks in the restaurants. In many memoirs, eyewitnesses enthusiastically recalled popular dishes - roast, pasta, steaks.

In the first decades of the twentieth century, restaurants worked only in the morning and afternoon. There have been no dinners or nightly activities yet. Regulars of restaurants went to visit friends and acquaintances in the evenings. Therefore, in the evenings, the empty halls of restaurants were closed. The guests of the restaurants were young rich men, guards officers, foreign travelers who were not yet accustomed to Russian cuisine and Russian service. The restaurants of Tardiff, Peker, Aimé are well known.

According to the Chief Police (she was engaged in statistics at that time), in 1814 in the Russian capital there were 2 coffee houses (cafes), 26 taverns, 22 gerberchs, 67 kitchens' tables, 35 taverns, 109 drinking houses, 259 Rena cellars. There are no restaurants among the noted ones, they were still a novelty, they did not enter the established St. Petersburg everyday life. But already on February 2, 1821, Emperor Alexander I "imperially approved the" Regulations on hotels, restaurants, coffee houses, taverns and taverns in St. Petersburg and Moscow. "

It was these five different types of institutions that were allowed to be organized in St. Petersburg and the First See. According to the Regulations, the number of hotels, restaurants, coffee houses and taverns was not limited in Russian capitals. Given the state monopoly on strong alcoholic beverages, inns remained under strict state control, in which (and only in them!) It was allowed to sell both beer, porter, grape wines, and sweet and bitter vodka. The restaurants quickly gained public acceptance.

At that time, both individual restaurants and hotel restaurants were popular on the banks of the Neva. Their owners were traditionally foreigners: the French Dumet, Talon, Saint-Georges, Diamant, Simon-Grand-Jean, Coulomb, the Italians Heide and Alexander, the Germans Clay, Otto.

1835 was a landmark year in the history of the restaurant business. On February 6, 1835, Nicholas 1 approved the new "Regulations on tavern establishments in St. Petersburg". Restaurants, hotels, coffee houses, taverns and taverns were allocated to "tavern establishments" with special operating rules.

Cellars, shops and shops with the right cellars were also identified for the sale of drinks. Severe quantitative restrictions have been introduced. In St. Petersburg, it is allowed to place only 35 restaurants, 46 coffee houses, 40 taverns and 50 taverns. And cellars - 250, shops and shops with the right cellars - 20. Moreover, in each of the parts of the city (in the modern - in the districts) it is allowed to have a certain number of taverns.

Intensive trade, of course, demanded the rest of the merchant's forces and the opportunity to use money profitably - all this was greatly facilitated by taverns. The taverns were just as necessary as the hotel complexes of the early nineteenth century.

The restaurants and coffee houses were of a more sophisticated character. In accordance with the regulation, in restaurants it was allowed to keep a table (for organizing breakfasts and dinners for visitors), serve grape wines, sweet vodka, liqueurs, beer, porter, honey, coffee, tea, and sell smoking tobacco "to the table".

In coffee houses, it was supposed to offer ice cream, lemonade, horshad, coffee, chocolate and smoking tobacco, all kinds of sweets, fruits, jams, cookies, sweets, jelly, marshmallows, syrups, liqueurs. In taverns it is allowed to "contain supplies of life, boiled, baked and fried, consumed by people of the lower class." Kvass and "sour cabbage soup" are allowed from drinks.

In taverns it is allowed to “keep the table, tea, coffee and smoking tobacco, sale of grape wines, foreign and Russian vodkas of every kind, rum, arak, shrom, cognac, liqueurs, punch, in general, grain vodkas produced at vodka factories, as well as rum and vodka in the manner of the French, light watering, honey, beer and porter. " Only in taverns it is allowed to have billiards tables, "but no more than three in each tavern."

In the first half of the 19th century, restaurants owned by Dyuli, Borel, and Dusseau were the favorite places of the "high society dandies" and young aristocrats. People came here to have fun, and sometimes to "play pranks". At Felier, Saint-Georges people of the high society gathered, officials of the highest ranks, ministers, diplomats - especially in the summer, when families left for their dachas.

Restaurants in the modern sense appeared after the initiative of the "master of the candy shop" Dominik Ritz Aport. According to his proposals, after being considered by the State Council on April 11, 1841, the Highest established a new tavern "called a cafe-restaurant". This new type of establishment combined the characteristics of pubs, restaurants and coffee houses. In the "cafe-restaurant" it is allowed to serve and sell:

"one). All kinds of refreshments, as well as tea, coffee, shekolade, mulled wine, sabanon, etc. 2). Sweets and miscellaneous cakes. 3). Broth, steak and other supplies needed for snacks. 4). Various liqueurs, liqueurs, Russian and foreign wines of the best kindness, porter, foreign and Russian beer of the best kindness. five). Tobacco and cigars. It is allowed to have in the institution: 1). All published, both Russian and foreign newspapers, are permitted by the government and 2). Billiards, skittles, dominoes and chess».

New service rules were also introduced in the new establishment. Tea, coffee and similar drinks had to be served not in portions (as was previously the case in taverns), but in cups and glasses. Liqueurs and wines - in glasses and glasses, and champagne and porter - in bottles and half-bottles.

The first such cafe-restaurant of Dominik Ritz Aport appeared on Nevsky Prospekt, in the house of the Peter and Paul Lutheran Church, it was called, of course, “Dominik”. He immediately became popular, especially among not very wealthy citizens, students and chess players.

They wrote that by the middle of the day from the influx of guests, the halls seemed to be in fog due to the smoke and steam that filled them. It was calculated that, on average, each of the "Dominicans" - as the regulars of the establishment were called - left 40 kopecks here. Equally popular was "Milbert", the moderation of prices in which was explained by the huge number of regular visitors.

Troika at the restaurant "Eldorado" in Moscow in Petrovsky Park

The number of restaurants grew steadily - along with the increase in the city's population, the development of business and social life, trade and industrial activities. At the end of the 19th century, there were about 60 of them, in 1911 - more than 100 (not counting those that were arranged at train stations, at clubs and hotels).

There were restaurants, especially loved by a certain category of residents of the capital. During these years, the restaurants “Brothers Pivato”, “Medved”, “Kontan” were among the most fashionable and expensive. In the latter, in 1916, a diplomatic reception was held in honor of the 25th anniversary of the Franco-Russian allied agreement.

Lunch for the French guests, given by the Moscow City Duma in the restaurant of the Big Moscow Hotel. 1912 year

There were several restaurants in the capital called "Exchange". The name itself testified that people sat at its tables not only for the sake of a meal, but also for trade negotiations. These restaurants were located in areas of the city where there was intense commercial activity.

For the merchants, first of all, the restaurants "Mariinsky" and "Kupecheskiy", located near Apraksin Dvor, were intended. The largest and most reputable of them, Kyuba, located on Bolshaya Morskaya Street, close to the largest banks, has become a kind of unofficial exchange for the elite.

Representatives of the business elite met here to negotiate and conclude deals. For such business and friendly meetings in a more or less narrow circle, many restaurants had, along with the main halls, so-called offices. The offices first appeared in St. Petersburg in the middle of the 19th century.

Actors, directors, theater critics often gathered at Zist's, near Alexandrinka. Often - at Litner's. At one time literary men were very popular at dinners, which were regularly arranged by the editors of the largest magazines.

Especially solemn events, anniversaries were celebrated in "Kontana". Many visitors were in "Maly Yaroslavets", "Vienna". Among the restaurants in St. Petersburg there were also those where they not only celebrated, dined, dined, exchanged news, rumors, impressions of what they saw and read, but ... one might say, they almost lived - spent many hours, wrote and even ... slept.

This was Davydov's restaurant. He was loved, it seemed, contrary to common sense. He did not indulge his clients with culinary delights. A glass of vodka was followed by a piece of salted fish with bread or fried sausage with mashed potatoes... It's amazing that this place was called a restaurant. But, apparently, in the incredibly colorful audience, in a completely relaxed atmosphere, there was something more attractive than respectability and good cuisine.

The students, who were especially numerous on Vasilievsky Island, went to the inexpensive Bernhard, London, Tikhonov, and Heide. These "impromptu revels were for the most part of a modest nature: 1 bottle for two of red wine or 2-3 bottles of beer were drunk, and the friends peacefully dispersed with a little noise in their heads." In the same establishments one could play billiards and celebrate the end of the school year.

There were also restaurants in the capital that had a certain "national orientation." The already mentioned Leiner's restaurant was especially loved by the St. Petersburg Germans - more or less wealthy. Those with more modest incomes went to establishments like Heide's restaurant.

Here one could inexpensively - and at the same time well - have lunch, sit, see friends. Heide's restaurant, as they said, seemed like a club - everyone here knew each other. Basically for the Germans in the summer time worked "Bavaria" - an open-air restaurant at the amusement garden on Petrovsky Island.

Petersburg restaurants offered their guests an extensive menu, a huge selection of wines, vodkas, liqueurs, liqueurs. For this, they had every opportunity - after all, meat, poultry and game were brought to the capital from different parts of Russia, butter and eggs, caviar and fish, including live ones.

Many restaurants had special pools where she was kept until she was sent to the stove. Petersburg gardeners almost all year long supplied fresh herbs and vegetables - cucumbers, green peas, green beans, cauliflower, asparagus, as well as mushrooms, strawberries and other berries.

Petersburg entrepreneurs who smoked pork hams did not stand aside, beef tongues, fish, as well as producing canned vegetables, berry juices, various confectionery products. Numerous bakeries provided the city with bread, muffins, pies, pastries, and cakes. Ham and salami, oysters, lobsters, sardines, various types of cheese, fruits and, of course, wine were brought from abroad. It came from France, Spain, Italy.

Over time, a lot of good wine began to be produced in the southern regions of Russia, which noticeably pressed the imported one. The strong drinks of St. Petersburg producers were famous - vodka, liqueurs, liqueurs. Beer was in great demand and popularity.

All this abundance went to restaurants. At first, visitors found in them, first of all, dishes of French national cuisine... Italian food was offered somewhat less frequently. Fans of oriental exoticism could find in the restaurant kebab, pilaf, azu, shashlik, familiar to us even now.

The first attempts to open Russian restaurants were unsuccessful, but soon they nevertheless appeared and gained popularity. The championship among them belonged to the Palkin restaurant, which was called the king of Russian cuisine. They loved and eagerly visited Maly Yaroslavets. Here you could get sturgeon fish soup, villagers, pies and pies, Guryev porridge, hazel grouse cutlets, buttered turnips, piglet with horseradish, side of mutton with buckwheat porridge ...

An elderly Frenchman who left Paris in connection with the revolutionary events of 1871, sitting at such a "Russian dinner", used to say: " He ran away from the Versaillese, but how can one escape from the piglet and the lamb? "

Naturally, plentiful meals were accompanied by alcoholic beverages. IN best restaurants the wine list contained up to a hundred names. Some were also famous for their specific drinks. In "Dominica" it was burnt, in "Vienna" - cold punch with ice ("Vienna").

Moscow tavern chefs

A good cook is the first condition for success. He and the head waiter were the "commanders" in the restaurant. But you also need a good "army". St. Petersburg restaurants have always been famous for their masters of cold and hot kitchen and a culinary workshop. The work began several hours before the opening. Rooms and offices were cleaned and aired, food was delivered to the kitchen, meat and fish were cut, vegetables were cleaned, the stove was kindled and warmed up. Everything was prepared for the arrival of the cook.

Subordinate to the head chef were soup bowls, roasting machines, chillers, ovaries, greengrocers, pastry chefs, pastries and other "kitchen artists" who created culinary masterpieces. Ancillary work was done by boys, kitchen men, dishwashers. The head waiter was in charge of the hall; an important place in the restaurant staff was occupied by the barman. The waiters played a special role.

The best waiters were from the Yaroslavl province. They arrived in the capital as boys, went through all the stages of work in the kitchen and in the hall. And decades later, the brightest of them even became restaurant owners. Whole dynasties arose, including 3-5 generations of waiters, then restaurant owners.

In the 1870s, even the "Artels of waiters in St. Petersburg" were created with a charter, a board of directors, entrance fees, and total capital. The first owners of the restaurants were foreigners. But, of course, the further, the more there were Russians who came to this occupation in different ways.

For example, V.I.Soloviev began with a small trade in fruit and gastronomy, which eventually grew into a very significant trading activity. The restaurant business became a natural continuation of a career. The owners of the restaurants were sometimes yesterday's peasants who came to the capital to work. Some of them eventually managed to engage in trade themselves, in particular, tavern craft.

There were also those who had more than one institution. Sometimes a person came to the restaurant business from a completely unexpected side. So, in 1913, the actor A.S. Polonsky opened his own theater with a restaurant, and he paid no less attention to the development of the menu than to theatrical performance. At the beginning of the twentieth century, more and more restaurants appeared, which were owned not by individuals, but by partnerships, most often, these were partnerships of waiters.

The location of the restaurant was of great importance. And most importantly, his visit was supposed to give the client maximum pleasure, to become a holiday. Everything was thought over - the clothes of employees, table linen, cutlery, dishes. Sometimes the guests emphasized that "the services are excellent."

In expensive restaurants, halls and offices were decorated with flowers, paintings, mirrors, fountains ... Where there was at least some opportunity, they set up a garden, and in summer, in warm weather, one could dine in the fresh air. There were restaurants that were attracted by their beautiful views from the windows or from the terrace.

Such was the "Felicietin" on Kamenny Island, on the banks of the Bolshaya Nevka. Various entertainments were offered to guests. Almost every one had a billiards table, some had a bowling alley, lotto, dominoes, checkers, chess. Young MI Chigorin played chess in "Dominica". Some establishments (though few) offered a large selection of magazines and newspapers. Gambling was banned.

In many restaurants, over time, music began to sound. At first, various mechanical "machines" were in vogue, for example, a mechanical organ. Live music gradually became popular. Orchestras played, orchestras of the Guards regiments performed in the largest restaurants.

Gypsy dances, romances, choral singing enjoyed great love of the public. The brothers Ilya and Peter Sokolov often came from Moscow to St. Petersburg, later they were replaced by N.I.Shishkin and Massalsky. Many went specifically to listen to the gypsies. In the middle of the 19th century, they were constantly in one of the St. Petersburg restaurants.

Hungarian and Romanian orchestras were popular, you could listen to a Russian choir, "Little Russian duetists", a Jewish ensemble. The career of some musicians began on the restaurant stage. Guest performers from Paris, Vienna, Milan sang in restaurants.

The amusement gardens offered a particularly large entertainment program. Mandatory in them were "military music orchestras", which played on the open stage.

During the intermission, artists performed humorous couplets, stories "from folk life", gymnasts, clowns, acrobats performed at it. In addition, concerts, performances, vaudeville and operas were performed in a special room. Famous St. Petersburg and touring actors often took part in them. Of course, they did not go to the amusement garden to dine there. But it was impossible to do without a restaurant. Sometimes the gardens were arranged by restaurateurs.

The most famous was the "Institution of Artificial Mineral Waters" in Novaya Derevnya, founded in the 30s of the nineteenth century as a medical institution, but soon became also a place of recreation for Petersburgers.

In the 1850s, II Izler became the owner of Mineralnye Vody, who glorified them. Here festivities, concerts, holidays began to be arranged. Gypsies sang with great success, Russian songs, chansonnets were performed, operettas were staged. It is believed that the garden greatly contributed to the spread of these genres in Russia. The garden was illuminated. A huge balloon rose above him, causing amazement and delight of the audience. The evening often ended with fireworks. Visitors to the garden called I.I. Izler a sorcerer.

They said that the Emperor himself came incognito to the garden and expressed his gratitude to the owner. If the guest was not satisfied with the program offered to everyone and wanted something personal, the host was ready to meet halfway. For example, once one of the garden's regulars invited his friends there in order to better escape from everyday life, the company had to, as it were, “leave” in another era, to be, say, in Ancient Rome. II Izler promised to arrange everything.

When the guests arrived and entered the office assigned to them, they saw "a banquet table, spectacularly decorated with vases, candelabra and flowers." There were not chairs around, but "soft sofas with cushions" - one could lie on them, just as was customary among the feasting Roman aristocrats. Nearby "on small tables were several baskets with greens and fragrant flowers, wreaths of roses lay on the mirror holders" - they were crowned with the heads of the guests. The host also prepared chitons and purple togas for the guests to change.

The company began to settle down - “the sofas and the floor around the table were covered with greenery and flowers - the atmosphere was fresh and aromatic. The windows were closed and the heavy curtains were lowered - a mysterious twilight formed. " After that, the main organizer, dressed in a toga and with a wreath on his head, began to cook burnt bean, "stirring it and fertilizing it with an addition of various spices." Friends wanted to watch the cancan without going to the hall where the performance was going on. And the owner promised to send the dancers to the office as soon as the performance on the main stage is over.

It is clear what kind of work it took to arrange such a holiday. Popular restaurants that had a lot of visitors had to have a significant staff of servants. Vienna, starting with 40 employees, soon expanded to 180.

Through joint efforts, a “cheerful, uplifting sense of the joy of life” was created, which attracted visitors. Organizing work and creating a similar mood is the main task of the owner. His other task (and not at all simple!) Is to keep the holiday within certain boundaries. It happened that people got drunk, lost control of themselves, went beyond the bounds of decency.

Once D.V. Grigorovich cited F.I. Tyutchev to Davydov's restaurant, where "almost all the literary fraternity flocked." A very cheerful company was already in the office. One famous writer sat on top of another, also famous, and "portraying a general in command of the troops, shouted something incendiary." Tyutchev was deeply shocked and left so hastily that he forgot his hat. Grigorovich later claimed that Tyutchev had a nervous fever. But this case can be attributed to quite harmless. There were places where fights, fights, drunken revelry became commonplace. There were casualties.

“A drunken youth,” recalls one of the Petersburgers of the mid-19th century, “could not confine herself to solid philosophical disputes and singing student songs. Young blood was seething ... ”Any incident was enough for a scandal to break out.

On the Petersburg side, in the Alexander Park, there was a restaurant - a favorite place for the students of the Military Medical Academy. Once a clash occurred between one of them and the restaurant barman, the barman called the police, who arrested the student. However, the comrades recaptured the arrested man.

« A significant reserve of police forces soon arrived on the scene; the students, in turn, shouted that their friend was being beaten, and a crowd of 200 people gathered at the restaurant. A uniform battle ensued between the students and the police, as a result of which the police were beaten and put to flight, and the restaurant was smashed to smithereens».

This, of course, is an extreme case, but still a brawl, although not on such a scale, is not uncommon. The owner of the establishment was primarily responsible for public order before the police. The scandal could result not only in losses from broken mirrors, glasses and dishes, but - in the worst case - the deprivation of the license for the right to trade.

Drunkenness is a huge social problem with which Russia has been struggling for a long time and not always successfully. There is even an opinion that Russians drink more than anyone else in the world, that this is their genetic trait. Is it so? And has Russia always been the personification of drunken stupor?

Ancient Russia - intoxicating drinks

In ancient times in Russia, alcoholic, or more correctly, exclusively intoxicated drinks were rarely consumed, at funerals, merrymaking, feasts. In addition, the most popular were mead, beer and mash, which were made on the basis of honey, and therefore not so much intoxicated as invigorated. Wine made from grapes began to be drunk only from the 10th century, when it came from Byzantium.

Russians read to everyone in childhood folk tales, therefore, the saying about honey and beer, which flowed and flowed down the mustache, but never got into the mouth, is familiar to everyone. What was there under the expression "did not get into the mouth"? And the point is that intoxicated drinks were not drunk just like that, they were served as a pleasant addition to a generous meal.

There were many drinks and they were all delicious. Since the reign of Vladimir the Great and until the middle of the 16th century, they used intoxicating drinks based on fermented honey or grape juice. These were kvass, sieve, birch, honey, wine, beer, strong drink, mentioned above and which became national drinks mead and braga.

It should be noted that there is no written evidence that drunkenness was considered a serious social problem in Ancient Russia. The old people of the times of Kievan Rus told the youth to drink wine for the sake of fun, but not in order to get very drunk: "drink, but do not get drunk."

It is believed that the Grand Duke of Kiev Vladimir chose Orthodoxy as a religion for Russia, since it did not directly prohibit intoxicating drinks.

The beginning of the "drunken era"

Today, many foreigners associate Russia with vodka. When this drink appeared everywhere, it is impossible to say. However, there are some documents in which you can find information that in the second half of the 15th century, the processing of rye began in Russia, they learned how to make pure alcohol.

A little earlier, in 1533, Ivan the Terrible issued an order to open Tsarev's tavern, which became the country's first drinking establishment. The beginning of the 15th century for Russia was marked by the appearance of such drinks as bread, boiled and hot wine. And these were no longer harmless intoxicating drinks made from grapes or honey, but a real moonshine, which was obtained by distillation.

Ordinary people could not afford to get drunk every day, as the tsar's oprichniks did. The working people indulged in alcohol on Holy Week, on Christmas Day, on Dmitrov Saturday. The first attempts to combat drunkenness belong to the same period: if a commoner got drunk at the wrong time, he was mercilessly beaten with batogs, and the one who crossed all the boundaries was in prison.

If we consider drunkenness as a way of making a profit, then it was under Ivan the Terrible that this phenomenon began to spread. A few years passed after the "launch" of the first tsar's tavern, and in 1555 the tsar allowed taverns to open throughout Russia. It seems that nothing really terrible happened, but food was not served in these establishments, and it was forbidden to bring it with you. A man who rushed to alcohol, drinking alcohol without a snack, could drop everything he had with him in a day, right down to his clothes.

The impetus for the development of drunkenness was also given by the fact that all peasants, commoners and townspeople were officially forbidden to make intoxicating drinks and moonshine in their homes. Naturally, people began to visit drinking establishments more and more often. The drunken era began when taverns received huge profits, which went to the State (Tsarev) treasury.

A contribution to the development of drunkenness was made by Boris Godunov, under whom all taverns were mercilessly closed on the territory of Russia, where not only alcohol was served, but also food. The state monopoly in the vodka trade was legalized. In 1598, the tsar issued a decree, which states that private individuals have no right to trade in vodka under any conditions. Only a hundred years passed, and drunkenness grabbed Russia by the throat with its iron hand.

Title = "(! LANG: Nikolai Nevrev. Protodeacon proclaiming longevity at merchants' name days. 1866
Merchants were allowed to drink and eat at home." border="0" vspace="5">!}

Nikolay Nevrev. Protodeacon proclaiming longevity at merchants' name days. 1866 g.
Merchants were allowed to drink and eat at home.

According to the Prussian diplomat Adam Olearius, who created the famous "Descriptions of a trip to Muscovy," he was amazed at the number of drunks lying on the street. Men and women, young and old, priests and secular people, commoners and titled persons drank. Unfortunately, such Russian national traits as hospitality played an important role in the spread of drunkenness. In Russia, it was customary to welcome the guest cordially, with a meal and alcohol. If the guest could drink everything that was poured to him, then he was treated better than the one who drank "bad". This was noted by the diplomat Peter Petrei in his Moscow Chronicles.

The fight against drunkenness

The beginning of the fight against drunkenness can be read in 1648, when the so-called tavern riots began. The reason was simple: the commoners simply could not pay off all the debts for what they had drunk in these establishments. The owners of the taverns did not want to be left behind either, so the tavern vodka was getting worse and worse in quality. The riots were so strong that it was not possible to suppress them without the use of military force.

This fact did not pass by Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, who in 1652 convened the Zemsky Sobor, which received the historical name "a cathedral about taverns." The result was a decree limiting the number of drinking outlets in Russia and determining the days prohibited for the sale of alcohol. I must say that there were a lot of them, as many as 180. The tsar also forbade the sale of vodka on credit. The prices for this product have been increased by as much as three times. One person could buy only one glass of vodka, which then had a volume of 143.5 grams.

Patriarch Nikon, who has great influence over the tsar, insisted on prohibiting the sale of alcohol to "priests and monks". Sermons were read in churches that drunkenness is a sin and harm to health. This had a positive effect, a negative attitude began to form towards drunkards, and not as tolerant as before.

Everything would be fine if the royal decree was unquestioningly observed for many years. No, that didn't happen. The number of taverns did not decrease, and the rest of the decree's clauses worked for about seven years.

Unfortunately, the economic benefits did not allow the alcohol trade to be drastically reduced. When vodka proceeds quickly crawled downward, state interests outweighed. However, before Peter 1 came to power, it was mainly poor people who consumed alcohol in taverns that became drunkards. Merchants and aristocrats could feast on wine at home, using a plentiful snack, because among them there were significantly fewer drunken individuals.

Peter I also tried to fight drunkenness. For example, he ordered to issue medals weighing more than 7 kg and distribute them to everyone who was seen in heavy drinking. It was necessary to wear such a medal for seven days, it was forbidden to remove it.

Campaign for sobriety and its results

In 1914 a sobriety campaign was started. During mobilization on the basis of a royal decree, the sale of any alcohol was strictly prohibited. This was the same Prohibition, which is much talked about today. A little later, local communities received the right to independently decide whether to trade in alcohol or not.

The effect exceeded all expectations. The Tsar's decree was supported in most regions, and in just a year consumption alcoholic beverages decreased 24 times. There was a decrease in patients diagnosed with alcoholic psychosis, a decrease in the number of absenteeism and "drunken" injuries. Agitation campaigns against drunkenness were launched on a wide scale.

However, this did not last long. Gradually, the achieved effects began to fade away, home brewing and the production of clandestine alcohol increased dramatically.

The production of alcohol continued, and there was a problem with its storage. In September 1916, it was banned by the Council of Ministers, and the stocks of the product had to be destroyed, which led to a significant decrease in state revenues.

To compensate for the losses from Prohibition, taxes were raised. Firewood and medicine, matches and salt, tobacco, sugar and tea - everything went up. Passenger and freight duties were increased. And the people continued to drive moonshine and drink.

Drunkenness began to overtake not only commoners, but also the nobility, the intelligentsia. The so-called zemstvo hussars (employees of the support service who did not participate in the hostilities) turned around with might and main, stealing and speculating in alcohol. Between city councils and zemstvos, a struggle arose for expanding influence, taking place under the banner of a company for sobriety, which turned dry law into a reason for the undermining of the socio-economic situation of the Russian Empire.

And in continuation of the theme, a story about

Series: Cases of bygone days. Legends of deep antiquity

(essays on the history of the Russian tavern craft from the beginning of its inception)

Everyone who has a little bit of a history of the emergence and further development of our tavern industry knows well that none of the trade branches that existed in Russia have suffered so much persecution and oppression as the ill-fated "tavern - tavern"! Even at the beginning of its emergence and before the time of Ivan the Terrible, he could exist harmlessly, but with the appearance of the first "Tsarev's Kabak", all troubles and misfortunes began to fall on him!

Severely persecuted by the "pravezh", the inn-tavern was expelled from its familiar place for centuries and disappeared into hiding places - cellars. The tavern pursued him everywhere and everywhere. Death was inevitable, and if he did not disappear at all from the face of the Russian land, it was only due to his especially stubborn vitality!

Being a Russian since ancient times, at the same time the only "public" place to which people flocked for "food, drink and conversation", the tavern - a tavern has always enjoyed a special popular love! It was in this love that he drew his amazing vitality!

Having embarked on a historical overview of the tavern craft in Russia, we, first of all, should focus on the ancestor of the modern tavern - the tavern, as the only and that completely original, ancient Slavic drinking establishment. The origin of the word tavern (originally feeding) is interpreted differently. Some of the researchers of antiquity, going back to antiquity, are looking for the root of this word in Persian, Zend, Arabic and Turkish, while others, on the contrary, stop only in Slavic, claiming that the name of the tavern is nothing but a derivative of the word "feed". The latter interpretation is considered by many to be more plausible, if only because it comes closest to the immediate tasks of the inn, which consisted mainly in feeding and watering the people who visit it. Whatever the origin of this word, the tavern is a primordially Slavic institution. This is a historical fact to which there is no objection.

As for ancient Russia, the free inn was considered the most indigenous institution in it. Where she appeared, there was a large population and wide trade, and vigorous activity. Kiev is the cradle of the tavern. Novgorod, Pskov and Smolensk, the main centers of its location. Here the need for social life was in full swing, while in Suzdal, Vladimir and Moscow, where the tavern was still absent, even the slightest movement was imperceptible. But over time, the inn also captured North-Eastern Russia, immediately raising its interest in public life.

So the free inn was complacent in Russia until the beginning of the 12th century, when for the first time a sensitive blow was dealt to its liberties. Already in the annals of 1150 there are direct indications that the tavern was imposed with a princely duty. From this moment, the transitional state of the tavern begins. From free it becomes princely or public-city, then state-owned and then already passes into the hereditary property of tenants. The latter dependence strongly changes its original appearance and, little by little, it loses its former meaning. It should be noted, however, that the free inn, not without a fight, yielded its rights and tried in every possible way to get away from the shackles imposed on it. The result of this struggle was secret inns, which, in spite of the most severe punishments, not only were not translated, but increased from year to year. The secret tavern made a strong nest in Russia and it took centuries to eradicate it.

The tavern was brilliantly filmed by the director Boris Ivchenko in the film "The Missing Letter" (1972):

By the beginning of the 11th century, the gradually increasing profitability of the tavern industry reaches such a grand scale that it immediately attracts the attention of not only the sovereign princes, but also the communities of free cities!

Both those and others are beginning to look at the tavern as a very serious and very significant aid to tax collection. The position of the free inn is getting precarious! She secretly fights for her rights, but the year 1150 comes and the charter of Smolensk Prince Rostislav deals a mortal blow to her existence! True, the decree does not establish the exact amount of the tax, but for this the idea of ​​a new tax system is clearly and definitely carried out. The rest of the sovereign princes immediately begin to follow the example of their kinsmen, rushing in letters and decrees to secure the right to this new source of income. Free cities are also not lagging behind their neighbors and are taking even more decisive measures! They take the tavern into the full ownership of the urban communities, do not allow the princes to touch the tavern trade), into the city), prohibit the princely people from selling any drinks (the Pskov charter of 1397), in a word, they finally and irrevocably destroy all the rights of free innkeeping.

Simultaneously with the taxation of the tavern tax, the issue of increasing the tax on the imported tavern is being resolved. For the correct observation of the actions and the uniform collection of duties, a special kind of checkpoints are set up, which, since 1417, begin to operate so successfully and energetically that, in a relatively short time, they lead the imported tavern to complete destruction.

Already the first attempt to levy a tax on the free tavern fishing caused the appearance of the so-called secret tavern. With the introduction of a local increased tax, the secret inns began to develop with extraordinary rapidity and by the end of the XIV century it covered all the princely possessions. The physiognomy of the tavern has changed dramatically, its tasks have become different ... All the good that has long been associated with this word has disappeared without a trace! The title of innkeeper from high, honorable turned into low, shameful! The secret tavern, in pursuit of a quick profit, began to solder and corrupt the people. Serving often as a gathering of unkind people, she, in addition to the damage inflicted on the government, was dangerous to civilians. Secret inns were brutally persecuted, imposed terrible punishments on them, excommunicated, but nothing helped! The passion for profit put up with everything! In some places the situation became critical and required urgent measures! ...

The first to openly and successfully fight the secret inn was Prince Mikhail Alexandrovich of Tverskoy. He set about eradicating this evil so energetically and skillfully that in the shortest period of time within his principality, not a single secret tavern remained !!!

The good example of Prince Michael was followed by other princes. A general persecution began on the secret tavern, and she was forced to reduce her appetites and move to more remote and inaccessible places for persecution! There she was already safe, and could not threaten the people's welfare!

The development of a secret tavern, in addition to the direct harm brought to the people, was reflected in the sense of damage also in the profitability of the tax tavern. This circumstance, of course, did not pass unnoticed and even more compelled the sovereign princes to the most energetic and merciless pursuit of secret innkeepers!

By the end of the fourteenth century, when the secret inn was partly completely disappeared, and partly migrated to more remote and remote places from shopping centers, the profitability of the tax tavern increased so much that it even exceeded the most greedy expectations of tenants. These lucky ones, in spite of the increasing taxes, oppression and so on from year to year. nevertheless, they became immeasurably rich, acquiring whole fortunes in a short period of time. The possessing princes saw all this, but, fearing to lose their faithful income, they did not dare to finally lay their hands on the richest inn trade!

Only in the first half of the 15th century, the Moscow prince John III risked destroying the tax-paying tavern and making it state-owned. Such a grandiose upheaval in the tavern business caused a lot of misunderstandings, and although, in the end, the transition from a tax tavern to a state tavern took place, it did not cost the treasury and the people cheaply!

The state tavern, wishing to make up for the lost time and get as much income as possible, did not care about preserving its original purpose - first of all, to feed, and then to water the people, and turned all its attention exclusively to the sale of drinking, as the most profitable item. In turn, the people, encouraged to drink, ceased to reckon with the time and the place and the amount of wine they consumed. In a word, less than a dozen years had passed before a general drunkenness began around the state inn. The tavern, as if anticipating the imminent appearance of the all-powerful tavern, was preparing the proper ground for it!

The government, which at first turned a blind eye to the systematic drinking of the people, finally roused itself and began to issue a number of decrees limiting the consumption of wine, honey, and so on. But the decrees remained decrees and hardly touched life, and if they penetrated it, it was very, very slow. Only a formidable letter on the prohibition of trade in any drinks on weekdays had an effect and somewhat sobered the people who had drunk themselves into disgrace. Now only on holidays he could indulge in drunken revelry with impunity! On weekdays, a great punishment awaited him! It was hard after the holiday hangover! It was a great drunken enmity! But the prospect of being whipped and tortured seemed even harder! I had to obey the new order! Make peace with them and ... the people humbly put up! ...

Until the first half of the 16th century, there were no other drinking establishments in Russia, except for the tavern. But the year 1545 dealt a decisive blow to this ancient drinking establishment, and it was replaced by a Tatar "tavern". The beginning was laid by Ivan Vasilievich the Terrible. Taking Kazan and learning about the existence of the Khan's tavern in it, he became terribly interested in this new type of drinking establishment and decided to cultivate it in Moscow. Arriving at the capital, he ordered to arrange for the archers. Tsarev's tavern, which differed from the Khan'skago in that the sale of any food was prohibited in it. The appearance of such a tavern was greeted with sympathy, and with the light hand of the streltsy Tsarev's taverns began to appear everywhere and everywhere. The people and the townspeople, unable, by virtue of the prohibition, to prepare drinks at home, involuntarily rushed to the tavern and carried pennies to it. The tavern began to provide an enormous income. But over time, this income increased even more, since the prohibition passed from the people to the boyars and monasteries. From that moment on, taverns became the only place where you could get drinks with impunity. All taverns were considered state institutions and were run by tavern heads. Kabatsky heads were given kissers as assistants. The latter were chosen by the population.
Later, when the management of taverns became very complicated and difficult, the government, wishing to retain the income and at the same time, remove supervision from itself, decided to hand over all the drinking establishments to "purchase". There were tavern heads "in faith". This era in the history of drinking establishments can be considered the most terrible and unbridled. Keeping the promise given to the reader not to consider the issue from any special aspect, but to present only a rigorous historical review, we still cannot but say a few words about the so-called “ransoms”. Even in comparison with the "secret tavern", the ransom tavern was something even more destructive and terrible !!!

A secret tavern surreptitiously soldered the people, the ransom tavern opposite operated openly! Unheard-of, boundless drunkenness gripped the population. The tavern soldered the people as they wanted. Kabatsky's head enjoyed unlimited power. With her, only an enormous income was required. There was no trial or punishment for him.

In addition to the fact that the tavern's head corrupted the people, accustoming them to hopeless drunkenness, he was still cruel and implacable in those cases when he discovered secret tapping.

"Pravezh" acted in full. Once secret drinking establishments were opened in the village, even on the smallest scale, the retribution was inexorable and cruel. The groans and screams of the beaten were drowned out by the cries of drunken revelry.

This difficult time in the life of a disfigured tavern should be noted especially vividly. Useful institutions that made it possible for the people to get food and drink and have a rest from the day's work turned into a den of insane revelry. The chroniclers of that time in such terrible colors describe the situation of the drunken people to the end that you involuntarily become at a dead end and ask yourself a question. "Is it true?" Unfortunately, this is historically true. The tavern has strengthened, the tavern has grown, and for many centuries, although greatly changed, it successfully existed and a lot will have to be said about it. And a lot.

As soon as the tavern was established in Russia, the government immediately took care that the income received from this new type of drinking establishments was immediately subjected to the strictest control. The tsar's charter, sent out to all the tavern heads, demanded the unswerving execution of the methods of collecting and handing over money to the treasury indicated in it, threatening those who violate this with the death penalty. According to the decree, the heads located in the courtyard had to collect drinking profits with necessarily small money, and everything received should be immediately placed in a box and without a remainder, so that part of the income would not fall into pockets, purse, for the sake of a dish, or would not be "accidentally" dropped into the very drink. The boxes were sealed with a head and were opened either weekly or monthly. The money withdrawn was checked and entered into the books "so that the tsar's treasury would not be bothered" - by clerks specially assigned to this matter, elected by the world. It would seem that with such strictness, the treasury should not have borne "bail", but in reality it turned out to be something completely different!

In the first, the tavern's heads robbed the treasury - as they wanted, and secondly, the governors, who were entrusted with the supervision of the report, did not lag behind them. In those cases, when the clerks turned out to be "unsuitable" people, the governors opened persecution against them and, deftly bypassing the Tsar's charter, through various ambitious people, they ensured that the appointment of clerks was entrusted to them, and not to the world!?! Of course, “their people” did not forget the benefactor-leaders and generously paid for the places received through them !!!

At each kruzhechny courtyard, depending on the turnover, sometimes such clerks were recruited by several people and then they already formed a whole office, the deeds of which were beyond the power of the tavern heads themselves to understand. Until the middle of the 17th century, tavern taxes were sent to Moscow on a monthly basis, but since 1660, since the transfer of money was too difficult for the elected and kissing people, it was ordered to send money twice a year - in February and August. For a general check of the reporting, the tavern heads themselves went out once a year - after Semyonov's Day, and, before their departure, they were obliged to hand over to the governors exact copies of the report they submitted. In Moscow, tavern heads appeared in the "Order of the Big Parish" and remained here until the end of the check. This was the general procedure for checking tavern reporting. In areas too remote from Moscow (Siberia), so as not to detach the tavern heads from the case and not introduce them into unbearable expenses, it was ordered, as an experiment, the heads themselves not to go to Moscow, but to hand over to Moscow to go, but to hand over reports to the governors , by which, on verification, and send them to the Order, but this experience had to be abandoned very soon, since the new order caused severe abuse. The government was forced to return to the old system. But in order to do something to help the "distant" heads, a decree was issued prohibiting unnecessary "red tape". But the decree remained an empty phrase.

As before, so now, tavern heads had to pay for every step, wait for an answer for whole weeks, look for "passages" to the higher authorities, and so on. Even when the report had already been submitted by them and all they had to do was to take their leave, there were again delays and the heads of the leave did not receive. I had to "pay" for the second time. In the end, "the pockets were turned out", the purse was "empty" and the unfortunate distant guests, having borrowed a penny from their acquaintances, departed "home", with the firm intention to make up for all the mistakes and losses as soon as possible. Kabatskie heads were greatly weighed down by the supervision of the governor and in every possible way tried to push this burden off themselves. Too expensive and unprofitable the voivodship duty fell on them! But for that, the governors managed their affairs too cunningly, and complaints about them did not reach the "top"! This continued until, in 1677, in Perm, there was a shortage of drinking money. Here the government did not stand on ceremony. Immediately, the strictest investigation was ordered, the result of which was a decree that completely removed the governor from the drinking business !!! Reporting supervision was transferred to the zemstvo elders.

The government, harshly pursuing shortfalls, at the same time tried to encourage those tavern heads who contrived to increase the rate of drinking income. There were even cases when the most diligent of them were awarded with encouraging gilded cups, decorated with coats of arms and corresponding inscriptions. It is clear that each of the heads tried to draw out everything that was possible from the people, not disdaining any measures. Who wants to expose their backs on the "right".
Being sophisticated in the means of drawing money and soldering the people, the tavern heads came to the conviction that there was nothing to be done without credit, especially when, due to a poor harvest, or for some other reason, the "pussies" did not really have a penny. And now a new era has opened in the tavern business - a loan has appeared.

At first, the people could not get used to this innovation for a long time, could not admit the thought that, not having a coin behind their souls, it is possible, at the expense of future benefits, to get drunk perfectly and not even once, but several times. All the niggardly threw themselves into the tavern and took advantage of the new boon to the widest possible extent. Trade went twice as successful and the expected profit, quite successfully provided inventive tavern heads from the brutal rule. It was good to use credit for the people, but for how hard it was for him when the time of reckoning came. Relentless tavern heads, demanded payment of the mastiff, squeezed it out, not hesitating by any means. Defective payers were robbed clean, the last shirt was taken off, and if this was not enough, then they were beaten to death. The people immediately understood at what price they got the loan, but neither the cruelty of their heads, nor the horrors they experienced during the payments, did not stop them from further indebtedness. The temptation was too great! The secret tavern, which until then had successfully competed with the tavern, suffered heavy losses with the opening of state credit and was forced to lower the prices of drinks for the sake of competition. Yes, it is understandable! The taverns had the legal right to claim the debt, while the tavern could only rely on the creditor's good faith, since at the first threat to pay the debt, they risked being denounced and wanted. Many innkeepers did not like the price cut for "green" wine and hit their pocket hard. I had to come up with something that could fill this forced gap. The inventive mind of the innkeeper decided to resort to falsification. Things went smoothly and the secret koremnichestvo, which had temporarily calmed down, awaited again and could now boldly compete with the state tavern. This identity did not last long. The keen eye of tavern heads and kissers quickly saw the "innovation" of their competitors, hurried to report it, and then a brutal and general search began again, again the secret writhing became the subject of the most severe persecution. Not only innkeepers suffered immediately, but also those naive people who sometimes allowed themselves to cook small amounts of drink and exclusively for their own household use. No one was spared! I had to pay everyone: both the right and the guilty. In this case, the tavern heads not only multiplied the treasury, but managed not to forget their own pockets ... Referring often to the theft of tavern heads, we consider it necessary to say a few words in general about their financial situation. The kabatskie heads and kissing people were financially and especially at the beginning of their activities were put ugly. They were not paid anything, provided nothing, and at the same time they were forbidden to steal! Do as you like! Live as you want! Subsequently, when the Order came to the conviction that it was necessary to pay for the work with something, the heads were entitled to a salary, but so insignificant that they could exist. In a word, the authorities themselves pushed them to steal, and there is nothing surprising that they stole. However, the treasury had little concern about this, it stubbornly pursued only one goal: to squeeze out income from drinking business as much as possible and spend as little as possible on the correct setting of this business. If, due to some circumstances, it was required to make extraordinary expenses, the treasury placed the entire burden of this matter on the ill-fated heads and their assistants. Seek funds where you know, but to be done! And the heads were sought and found! And if, moreover, aspirations, they did not have enough guesswork, then they inevitably had to pay with their own backs, which was very often!

From the time of Ivan the Terrible and up to the onset of the Time of Troubles, the tsar's taverns jealously guarded their monopoly, and any attempt to violate another government was brutally persecuted. It was not shy about the means. So, during large festivities, accompanied by fairs, people in charge of the tsar's tavern's income ordered thorough searches of persons suspected of secretly selling pitya.

Sometimes such searches were carried out by the head, and then people who were completely not involved in the drinking business were subjected to "shame". The detectives had the right to appear at home and, regardless of any circumstances, turn everything upside down. Thanks to this order, a lot of false denunciations appeared, for the sake of personal revenge. He wanted to annoy one another, denounced and subjected the enemy to shame, and not only him, but the whole family! Civilians considered these searches a heavenly punishment sent down to them for their sins, and, not sparing the last pennies, paid off uninvited and unceremonious guests. Sometimes, such searches gave rise to fights, mortal carnages and even partial riots. The embittered population mercilessly beat the detectives and entered into a struggle with the authorities who came to the rescue. This was the order of protecting the interests of the tsar's tavern, and although it seemed cruel, to a certain extent it achieved its goal.

But then came the time of troubles and the whole system, legalized by a solid power, immediately collapsed. The lack of command was used not only by the dark people, but also by the boyars and merchants. Everyone was looking for a quick profit. New drinking establishments of all kinds and organizations appeared next to the government taverns.

Vodka became the main item of trade throughout Russia. Drunkenness has increased to Homeric proportions. The masses of the people, knocked out of the rut of everyday life, rushed from side to side, not knowing where to stick to and what to do with themselves!

Torn off the ground and involved in civil strife, they could find refuge only at the tavern. Here, for money, or by robbery, they obtained alcohol for themselves and, bestial and intoxicated, found satisfaction for their passions in wild, insane orgies. Some of this mass, having come to their senses, returned to their native nests and got down to work, while the majority turned to "tavern gol". There was no return to this! The tavern replaced everything with them: both the family and the homeland.

Robberies and murders have become commonplace. The driving roads, which ran through dense forests, were filled with robbers! The taverns, shanks, taverns grew like mushrooms! The drunkenness was general, indiscriminate, hopeless! There is not the slightest opportunity to make even a brief overview of the drinking business during this exceptional period of time! Only in 1613, with the accession of Mikhail Osodorovich, the drinking business began to be put in order. It cost the government a lot of work to return to the former strict order. The drinking business was shaken so badly that it took a century to get it back on track. Of course, there was nothing to think about any innovations during this time. Satisfied with the orders of the past! Let us suppose that the government succeeded in abolishing the tyranny in the tavern business, but it was beyond its power to smash the "tavern's need" at the end. It fearlessly existed until the iron regime of Peter the Great's time and, although it has greatly diminished, compressed by the new conditions of life, nevertheless, as we know, it exists to the present day. All the harmful scum of society, embittered by the contemptuous attitude of others around them, at the same time, have played and continue to play a solo role in the existence of the wine trade. A working man of labor, if he wants to drink, nevertheless, a careful attitude to every extra penny will try to acquire wine by legal means. Take a legal establishment, he goes to the tire and pay exorbitant prices for the right to get drunk. Take the boar gall from the shank, leave him a random visitor, and the shank will stall and disappear without any repressive measures.

Among the mass of a new type of drinking establishments that appeared at the onset of the "time of troubles", the so-called tavern establishment does not appear and, in general, the mention of the tavern is found only after 1827. But personally, we have reason to think that the tavern appeared much earlier, namely in 1795. It is desirable for us to dwell on this title in more detail, if only because the main task of our essay is precisely to review the "history of the development of the tavern industry." Strange as it may seem, no one has paid the slightest attention to the historical origin of the ill-fated word "tavern" until now. Even a search in the public library did not lead us to any results. Only because of this, we take the liberty of drawing our own personal conclusions about the origin of this name. To look for the root of "restaurant" in the word "tract" is a road, there is no reason, just as there is no reason to consider it the English "Tractor". It is more accurate to produce it from the German verb "Traktieren" - a tavern, which means "to treat". Dwelling on this assumption, we present the final solution to this issue to specialists. Now let's move on to resolving the issue of the first appearance of a tavern in Russia and acquaint the reader with the arguments that made us stop at 1795. To do this, we will make a brief overview of the drinking business from the end of the Time of Troubles to the official indication of the word "tavern", ie. until 1827.

Establishment of order in the drinking business at the end of the Time of Troubles ended with its surrender. We have already mentioned the terrible harm of this system, and will add that tax farmers, who got acquainted in a secret tavern with all kinds of falsification methods, including intoxication, have widely applied this vile means of profit to their already profitable business. There were no such abuses that would not have been set in motion by greedy hucksters. The people, enraged by drunkenness, indignant at the tricks of the kisselovniki, rowdy, smashed the taverns to the base, beat and killed the taverns, and sometimes, fueled by the search for the tavern, organized open riots! But neither the first nor the second frightened the wholesalers who were making huge amounts of money, and they firmly and confidently continued to conduct their ugly business until the middle of the 17th century, when the government, drawing attention to the not normal organization of the case, decided to destroy the hated word "tavern" him to the "drinking house". But of course, such a substitution of one word for another could not help the cause, and everything that existed before remained intact. There was only a small intermission in the activities of the hated wholesaler. So what is next? Then everything went as before and ended in 1795, which brought with it a very serious reform. This year already finally, in the whole Empire, a ransom system was introduced, but with its right to receive profits not only from pites, but also from food supplies. Such a reform made it possible for the tax farmers to spread their networks even wider, and they immediately began to open a mass of all kinds of drinking establishments. We can say with confidence that this moment, we have the right to consider, the moment of the appearance of the first tavern in Russia, after 1000 years, the Russian tavern was reborn again, giving the people both "food and drink" at the same time.

Until 1861, there was no general provision on tavern establishments in Russia. So, St. Petersburg had its own charter, Moscow, provincial and port cities - their own, and for out-of-the-ordinary places there was a special position. Tavern establishments were divided into different types, depending on the type of trade that they were allowed to produce. The highest category included: hotels, restaurants, taverns and cafes - restaurants, the lowest - taverns. The position of the tavern craft was replete with all sorts of restrictions and constraints, it would seem, completely unnecessary. For some reason, the tavern was not a favorite brainchild and had to fight every hour for its existence, while the notorious tavern was operating in the full breadth of unlimited arbitrariness. The regulation strictly determined the nature and boundaries of trade for each tavern. In St. Petersburg, a total amount of excise tax was assigned to them, distributed between individual establishments, the rest of the types of establishments were leased for a certain legal amount. In 1861, all these establishments were equalized and all were given the same rights.

Their delivery was entrusted to urban societies, which, with the approval of the governor's administration, determined the means of the annual excise tax from each institution. The internal layout was carried out by deputies elected from the society of innkeepers. In the counties, the sum of the inn excise tax ranged from 15-60 rubles. Such low wages depended on the fact that inns that competed with inns were completely tax-free. At the end of the nineteenth century, namely in 1893, a new regulation on tavern craft was established, which was put into effect in all areas of the Empire, with the exception of the Kingdom of Poland, from January 1, 1804. With the mass of the existing variety of tavern establishments, the legislation could not develop special rules for each of them, and was limited to only general instructions. According to these instructions, this tavern was considered an open establishment, in which the public could purchase "food and drinks for consumption on the spot", and some types of tavern craft establishments had the right, in addition to trading in common premises, to also contain special rooms that were rented to them.

The tavern-making establishments, which did not have separate chambers for renting out, were named: taverns, restaurants, taverns, dukhans, vegetable and fruit shops, Renskoye cellars (Renskoye cellars are shops where they bought Rhine wines (Rhine wine, etc.); should sell "pitya "Not otherwise, as soon as" takeaway ".) With serving food or snacks, beer shops serving hot food, etc. As we have already said, the legislation did not establish exact signs of differences between some establishments from others, and only in relation to the equipment of inns pointed to their internal structure (covered devices for horses, etc.), the existence of a tavern craft establishment was established by legal documents, and the opening and production of trade in strong drinks, exactly like tobacco products, are subject to the rules of the statutes on excise taxes and tobacco taxes and the provision on state selling drinks. Duration of trading in establishments - in the position indicated conditionally; so, for example, for hotels, inns, station buffets, clubs and theaters, etc. an exception is made. In general, in an exemption from the law, the governors are given the right to authorize trade in other establishments for a longer period of time. For the sale of supplies and the leasing of apartments, the law did not establish a rate and gave the right to carry out both trade and rental at a free price. But at the same time, he obliged the owners of establishments, both in general and in individual rooms, to have plates with an exact indication of the price. For unnecessary demands for prices, the legislation put punishment on the perpetrators, in the form of a monetary fine. In some types of tavern establishments, with the permission of the highest administrative officials, the laws allow not prohibited games, music, singing, choirs and other entertainments. In general, all persons who had the right to engage in trade and crafts could maintain taverns, while previously this required a special certificate, which was extremely difficult to obtain. The last provision canceled this paragraph and indicated only the subscription, which must be given by persons wishing to open a tavern. By this subscription, they testify that they were not subject to a penalty that deprives them of the right to maintain tavern establishments. In cities, permits for the opening of a tavern craft establishment are provided by city councils.

It is also necessary to add the following: every room located within the boundaries of urban settlements and intended for the sale of drinks must necessarily be examined by the police.

Moreover, both excise supervision and persons appointed from the city government take part in this examination. The City Duma, in agreement with the police, issues mandatory decrees on the organization of various kinds of tavern trade establishments, so that each of them does not go beyond the framework defined by law and fully corresponds to its purpose, both in terms of improvement and well-being.

It is also the responsibility of the Duma to indicate the places in the city in which taverns should not be opened at all.

In settlements where no city status has been introduced, such binding decrees are issued by the governor. All tavern establishments located in urban settlements are subject to special tavern fees, which go to the income of these settlements. Determining the total amount of these fees, the city duma splits them into two parts: one part falls on establishments that sell strong drinks, the other - on those who do not sell them. To lay out the same fees for individual institutions (if their number in the city is more than 20), they are distributed by the Duma into groups, according to the degree of their profitability, the size of turnover, location, etc. moreover, the largest and the smallest amount of taxation is determined. The actual layout is made (depending on the discretion of the Duma) either by general meetings of the owners of the establishments of each group, or by a distribution commission elected from among their midst. The assignment commission is elected annually, and both the meeting of the owners of the establishments and the meeting of the assignment commissions take place under the chairmanship of a member of the city duma. The layout of the inn tax must be completed by the deadline specified by law, namely by October 20th. In case of inaccuracy in the term by the city government itself. Misunderstandings with the wrong layout, as well as complaints about it, are finally resolved by the City Duma. All canteens of military meetings, the economy of which is not leased to private individuals, is not subject to the collection of the city inn tax.

In addition to the designated military buffets, the city duma may, at their discretion, exempt from collection and establishments of a different kind, but exclusively from the category that does not produce trade in strong drinks. Commercial establishments that do not trade in strong drinks and are located outside the boundaries of urban settlements are opened in the same order as in cities in general. The opening of establishments with the sale of spirits should be permitted in compliance with all the rules of the statute on excise duties, and the conditions on which the owner or the company agreed to open the departments is taken into account. These conditions, set out in written agreements, must be provided in the case as documents. All establishments of inn industry that are outside the boundaries of urban settlements, with the exception of dukhans, inns, and evenly writhing without the sale of strong drinks, pay the inn tax in favor of the county lands, where land institutions have not been introduced, and the provincial land tax, and in the region Donskoy troops - in stanitsa or military sums. The size of the trade tax ranges from six to ten to fifteen rubles, depending on the category of the area. This amount is determined by the county land assemblies, and where there are no land, by the provincial administrative committees. Concluding with this, the review of the legal provisions of the tavern industry, let us say by the way that, data on the number of drinking establishments in Russia, we see the following: in 1866 their number was 35,376, by the end of 1894 it reached 42,067, i.e. ... increased by more than six and a half thousand. Then, due to the introduction of a monopoly by guilt, it began to fall. Not wishing to dwell in detail on issues that do not directly concern the general overview of the essay, we will translate its next chapters to summarize everything that has been said previously and will try, in a more concise framework, to remind the reader of the historical course of events that accompanied both the origin and further development of the tavern craft in Russia.

"The tavern is most precious to us!" - says Arkashka Schastlivtsev, a comedian from the play by A. Ostrovsky "Forest". And for many Muscovites in the 19th century, the tavern was also "the first thing". “He replaced the exchange for merchants who made thousands of deals over a cup of tea, and a dining room for the lonely, and hours of rest in friendly conversation for all people, and a place for business dates, and revelry for everyone - from a millionaire to a tramp,” writes the historian and journalist of the beginning of the century Vladimir Gilyarovsky about restaurant customs of the end of the nineteenth century. In a word, Arkashka is right: "The tavern is the first thing!"
There were three oldest purely Russian taverns in Moscow since the first half of the century before last: Saratov, Gurin's tavern and Yegorov's tavern. However, in 1868, Gurin's clerk, a certain Testov, persuaded the millionaire Patrikeev, the owner of the house in which Yegorov's establishment was located, to take away the tavern from the latter and hand it over to him. After a while on the wall of the newly decorated, luxurious by that time house on the corner of Voskresenskaya and Teatralnaya squares, a sign "Big Patrikeevsky tavern" appeared. And below it was very modestly signed: “I.Ya. Tests ".

Testov conducted trade widely, the main menu was the Russian table. Therefore, it is quite understandable that the main clients of Testov were the merchants and the nobility, who were thrown into the new tavern. Testov's enterprise expanded so widely that soon his fame scored the restaurateur Gurin and the Saratov tavern. This made it possible for Testov in 1876 to add a coat of arms and the inscription: "Supplier of the highest court" to his sign.

In addition to the Moscow merchants and the nobility, the St. Petersburg nobility came to the Testov tavern, and the great dukes also visited. When visiting, everyone certainly wanted to taste the test pig, crayfish soup with pies and the famous Guryev porridge, which, by the way, was invented by some unknown Guryev.
As for the design of the test tavern, in addition to a number of offices, there were two huge halls, where for lunch or breakfast eminent merchants had their tables, which could not be occupied by anyone. So, in the left room, the extreme table by the window from four o'clock stood behind the millionaire Ivan Chizhov, a shaved, fat old man of enormous stature. At one o'clock he carefully sat down at the table, almost always alone, ate for two hours and dozed between dishes.

According to Gilyarovsky's recollections, Chizhov's menu was as follows: a portion of cold beluga or sturgeon with horseradish, caviar, two bowls of crayfish soup, a fish or kidney villager with two pies, and then a fried pig, veal or fish, depending on the season. In summer, botvinya with sturgeon, white fish and dry grated balyk is a must. Then on the third course - invariably a frying pan of Guryev porridge.

Sometimes Chizhov allowed himself to digress, replacing the pies with Baydak pie - a huge kulebyak filled with twelve tiers, which contained everything - from a layer of burbot liver to a layer of bone marrow in black oil. At the same time, he drank red and white wine, and after taking a half-hour nap, he went home to sleep in order to be at the Merchant Club from eight in the evening, there is a whole evening by special order already from big company and have some champagne. He always ordered at the club himself, and none of the companions contradicted him. As Chizhov himself said, “I don’t have these different fooli-joli and fricasse-kurasa ... We eat in Russian - but our belly does not hurt, we don’t rush about doctors, we don’t stagger abroad.”

The most remarkable thing is that this gourmet lived in good health to his old age.

The Testova tavern was one of those Russian taverns that were in great fashion in the 19th century, and then, much later, they began to be called restaurants. Then in the center of the city there was only one "restaurant" - "Slavianski Bazaar". The rest were called taverns, because the main visitors were Russian merchants. And each of the city taverns was distinguished by its customs, some special dish and had its own regular visitors. In all these taverns, maids served in white shirts made of expensive Dutch linen, washed to a shine. They were called white shirts, sex or sixes. "Sixes" because they served aces, kings and queens. “And every jack, even the black one, orders them,” wrote Vladimir Gilyarovsky. -But nothing! The trump six beats the ace. " But while the "six" became a trump card, it had to endure many troubles and trials.

Painting by the Spanish painter Diego Velazquez "Innkeeper".
The size of the painting is 100 x 122 cm, canvas, oil.

The painting by the Sevillian artist Velazquez from the bodegones cycle also has another name "In the tavern".

Ie of the imperial codes of the tsarist government of the Romanov dynasty.

Inns and taverns were subdivided into various types according to the type of trade they were allowed to produce: hotels, restaurants, taverns and cafes-restaurants were the highest category, taverns were the lowest.

The establishments of tavern craft without renting out apartments include: taverns, restaurants, taverns and dukhans; vegetable and fruit shops and Renskoye cellars serving snacks or meals; canteens, kitchens, buffets at theaters, on ships, piers, railway stations, at festivities, etc .; beer shops selling hot food; confectionery and pastries selling supplies for local consumption; coffee, food or snack shops. In taverns and taverns, station houses and Renskoye cellars, all kinds of sale of strong drinks, both Russian and foreign, including beer, porter and honey, are permitted; in inns or inns, temporary exhibitions, wine and bucket shops, it is allowed to sell the same drinks, but only Russian preparation; beer shops can only sell beer, porter and honey, and cellars selling Russian grape wines can only sell wines.

I would be grateful for the pluses, likes and retweets! Thanks in advance!

NORTH-WESTERN STATE CORPORATE TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY

Department: Social and Humanitarian Sciences.

Test work on Patriotic history.

Taverns in Russia.

Completed by student Barbolin P.M. Code Specialty 0608 Faculty of EUAT

Olenegorsk 2005

1. The history of alcohol in the world. 2. The emergence of taverns. 3. The structure of the taverns. 4. Reforms of the drinking business. 5. Foreigners "about the drunkenness of Russians." 6. Attempts to close drinking establishments. 7. Beer in Russia. 8. Beer rooms and buffets. 9. Conclusion.

Taverns in Russia.

Why is it that we, the Russians, are always "on fire" and want to miss something like that, stronger? The answer to this very difficult question must be sought not only in the secret recesses of the tricky Russian soul, but also in history. Different peoples have known about drunkenness for a long time. In ancient China, a thousand years before

Nativity of Christ, the emperor threatened the drunkards with the death penalty. Around the 6th century BC, the Hindus and Aryans (the ancestors of Europeans) had Manu laws prohibiting such abuses. Herodotus wrote about libations among the Persians when discussing the most important issues. Homer mentioned the Saturnalia - holidays in honor of Bacchus. With the growth of wealth in ancient Rome, addictions also became more sophisticated - some of the grape wines were known to the Romans by up to 160 varieties. Since the 13th century, vodka began to spread in Europe. In the beginning she served

drug and was sold only in pharmacies. In Germany, wine was so cheap that for the smallest coin one could treat it more than once. In general, the variety of alcohol showed the level of development of the people. African and Australian savages drank palm wine,

South American Indians - cava tincture, Chinese - rice vodka. The struggle with the "green serpent" also began - for example, in America, next to taverns, "cat concerts" were organized - they shouted, whistled, howled, beat in pans. Until the 15th century in Russia, the sale and production of intoxicants was nothing

were limited. A legend has survived that Prince Vladimir, choosing faith for the country, rejected Mohammedanism because of the ban on drinking. As if the prince said to the ambassadors: "Russia is the joy of drinking. We cannot be without that." This is a legend written by monks-scribes retroactively, long after the adoption of Christianity by Russia. For centuries, the people have bitterly ridiculed the brethren of the brethren. In the old days, every well-to-do owner "smoked" vodka for his house, insisted on liqueurs and liqueurs. Wise Olga chastised the Drevlyans: "Behold, I am coming to you; yes, come to the honey of many." But then there were no strong drinks yet. They drank hop mash, velvet beer, stand-alone meads, honey kvass. Vodka is a diminutive for water. Our ancestors drank not "English bitterness", not "wormwood", but "sweet vodka". Red wine has been known in Russia since the 10th century. It is called "fryazhsky"

appeared on the tables of the rich, sometimes in the monastery walls. Ordinary people were content with sweet vodka and kvass. The taste of the drinks was such that, "as you drink a chara, you want another, you drink another - the third soul burns." Still - there were standing honeys, sweet vodka in barrels of the forties.

All this was drunk in taverns (tavern - from the words "feed", "feed"). You can compare them with clubs: they learned the news there, conducted conversations. There was a proverb: "In the inn and in the bathhouse, all are equal nobles." That's all, but the woman was ordered to enter there. But everything was not so smooth: there was a complaint to the prince of that era: "Lord, the peasants are drinking this drink." In 1360, the Arab Regueza invented a no longer sweet vodka. Taverns appeared

(Tatar word) - inns. Alcoholic drinks with a high alcohol content, such as vodka, appeared in Europe in the 13th century, and in the 16th century vodka

appears already in Russia. Since the middle of the 16th century, with the appearance of vodka in Russia, its production was established at special distilleries. Tsar Ivan Vasilyevich the Terrible, after the capture of Kazan in 1552, founded

the first Russian tavern. Kabak is a Tatar word and it comes from the name of a vessel made of pumpkin. I must say that the Tatar tavern is an inn where alcoholic drinks and all kinds of food were served. The first tavern was opened by Ivan the Terrible in Moscow (now there is a 5-star hotel "Baltika" - not far from the Kremlin, and in translation baltika means swamp and mud). The tavern at the very beginning was founded for the guardsmen. Oprichnina is a method of retaining power with the help of terror and violence, people who went to the oprichnina are usually people without moral foundations. For them, robbing a church, a monastery cost nothing. They were, as it were, outside the law and outside of that patriarchal Russia in which moral values ​​were formed for centuries. For them, these values ​​practically did not exist. Moreover, when the taverns began to bring very large incomes, a special decree of Ivan the Terrible was issued - so that smerds and other people were allowed to visit taverns. The taverns in Russia began to be called "khan's" - after all, the Tatars noticed

profitability of trade in vodka and took matters into their own hands. After the Tatar yoke, princes took possession of the taverns, and these hot spots were already called "princes", and then "tsarevs". There were taverns in Russia, both boyars and monasteries. For example, the taverns of the New Jerusalem Monastery, Makaryevsky, Trinity-Sergius Lavra. From documents of the middle of the 17th century. it turns out that there were more than 20 taverns in the Dvinsky district, including in the patrimony of the Anthony-Siysky monastery, on the Voloka Pinezhsky, in the Soyalsky and Kevrolsky stans, in the volosts and graveyards (Nenoksa, Una, Luda, Kuloe and other places). Interrogation speeches in 1678 also reveal the location of 14 kruzhechny dvor: 4 - in Kholmogory (kruzhniy dvor, profitable counter, Red tavern, quarter stand), 4 - in Arkhangelsk (kruzhniy dvor, altynnaya stand, Red tavern, bathhouse), 2 - in Voloka Pinezhsky (kruzhechny dvor, tavern), 4 - in volosts along the Dvina (in Yemets, Stupino, Nenoksa, Rakul).

What the tsar's tavern was can be seen from the receipt of the kisses of the kruzhechny courtyard in Nyonoks, who took over the courtyard in 1688. According to the receipt, this drinking establishment had "wine in the sovereign's measured burgundy bucket - 51 buckets, and 2 tubs of beer - 50 measures, and ships: a penny wine glass, copper, two-ruble sales, and a penny wooden cup, and an altyn hill, and a double-altyn ladle. Yes, there are three gangs of beer vessels, and a penny ladle, and the other money. yes, a quarter wine barrel, and a padlock. " This is the internal "arrangement" of the royal tavern. All measuring utensils for storing wine and selling in bulk are soiled, that is, certified by state authorities. Of the other accessories of the tavern, other documents mention a stand, benches where drunks often fall asleep, but they did not keep anything edible in the tavern. There were few tapped taverns, the rest were considered property

the state treasury.

The state taverns were run by kiselists. They called them that because they kissed the cross and the Gospel in that they would honestly watch over the sovereign's treasury. They received awards for good work and profit.

The documents cited show that the government viewed the tavern business as a very profitable item. The network of taverns, judging by the Podvin, was ramified. Tsarist taverns were set up at marinas, fairs, at baths, and necessarily at customs. The issue of drinking alcohol in Russia has always been closely related to politics

state. Since the appearance of the first tsarist taverns, the vodka trade has been concentrated exclusively in the hands of the tsarist administration. Since then, the production and sale of alcohol has been concentrated in the hands of tavern heads. They were intermediaries between the tsarist administration and the population. And of course there were big financial abuses. In November 1655, a large shortage (shortage) of "kruzhechnykh

money. "24880 rubles had to be collected from the Dvinsk taverns in three years. 17 Alt. 2/2 money, however, collecting profits" on faith "" the head of the living room of a hundred Ivan Meltsev and his comrades "did not get it in 1654 against 1652 ( when 11213 rubles 13 alt. 3 money was collected) 4755 rubles 18 alt. 1/2 money. If we compare this money with the price of rye -10 alt. measure (4 1/2 poods), then

there will be about 100,000 poods of rye. We know the appraisal of the property of the peasant farm on the Dvina in 1647 - it was valued at 85 rubles. 3 alt. Consequently, the tavern fee for 3 years amounted to the cost of 304 peasant farms. Ivan Meltsev and the kissing men tried to justify the shortfall by the fact that

There were few "cockerels", since the years were lean and many "cockroaches" went to work. But the government didn’t believe the head and ordered to investigate the reasons for the shortage by a "big rampant search." By order of the voivode Boris Ivanovich Pushkin, the clerk of the Szezha hut Vasily Mikhalitsyn asked the elders in the Anthony-Siysk monastery: "Was there joy?" Kruzhechny courtyards have no money to drink for themselves and for their friends. Did they buy supplies and honey for beer at the time, did they charge extra money for runs, were they unlocked and locked at the indicated hours. And were they happy in everything? " (These questions show the tricks used by kissing pads.) The elders responded with ignorance. Yes, this is how other respondents usually answered during general searches. How the case ended is not clear from the documents. But there are known cases of collection of "shortage" from the population, which thus paid for restraint in drinking "sovereign wines". According to the decree of 1697, the wine shortage was to be recovered from the zemstvo people. All kinds of riots very often arose against them.

So in the years 1649-1650, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich convened after the suppression of the tavern riots, the Zemsky Sobor, which received the name of the tavern cathedral. The main question on it is the question of reforming the drinking business in Russia. Such an attempt was made. In the years 1651-1652, the sale of vodka on credit was prohibited, which contributed to the creation of tavern debts and the enslavement of people. Private and secret taverns are being destroyed, and the church's preaching against drunkenness is intensifying. On the advice of Patriarch Nikon, it was decided to sell only one

a glass of alcohol per person 4 days a week, and an hour before the beginning of mass, stop selling it altogether. But how are such prohibitions for the Russian people? Less than 7 years later, a new resolution was introduced, according to which the widespread sale of alcohol was already allowed, "in order for the great sovereign to make a profit for the treasury." And, indeed, they lost a lot on vodka. The sale of vodka brought from 30% to 50% of the receipts to the treasury. Financial considerations are again leading to a terrible drunkenness in Russia. At the time of Boris Godunov, taverns were banned and arranged secretly,

since they liked the people more than the tsar's taverns. With the exception of Ukraine, the free trade in intoxicants has ceased. Vodka began to be sold without appetizers (earlier it was possible to eat in taverns). The people began to secretly brew honey and beer; tavern heads reported this to the authorities. Those who were convicted of arbitrariness were beaten with thin sticks on the leg calves and often beaten to death. This "right" was abolished by Peter I, but he returned again in the time of Biron and Catherine II. There was even a decree: "But the peasants will smoke and sell wine, and the hands of those peasants will be flogged and exiled to Siberia." Under Catherine II, it was forbidden to preach sobriety and drive away drunks (drunkards). This is how Bishop Tikhon paid. In 1765, in Voronezh, tax dealers rolled out several barrels of wine to the square as a gift to the people. The "outrages" began. The Voronezh bishop not only managed to calm down the people, but also convinced them to break the barrels and pour the remains on the ground. The tax farmers complained to the Empress, and Tikhon was exiled to Zadonsk. Catherine II gave all the alcohol trade to the tax farmers; Alexander I again

returned to the state sale of drinks; Nicholas I was in favor. Since 1895, a state wine monopoly has been introduced in the country. Until this year, there was a decree prohibiting city assemblies and village gatherings from making decisions on the fight against drunkenness. Only since 1895 freedom was granted to Russian teetotalers. The last Russian emperor admitted: "You cannot make the welfare of the treasury dependent on the ruin of the spiritual and economic forces of many of my loyal subjects" - and urged: "Let everyone, as best he can, fight this evil ...".

And the Russians knew how to drink. In 1908, for example, wine consumption reached 70 million buckets a year. This year, the income from the wine monopoly reached 696 million rubles and 41 million in taxes. Impressive descriptions of the unrestrained drunkenness of Russians can be found

in almost every essay by foreigners about Russia in the 15th-17th centuries. However, the most "expressive" description of "Russian customs" was left in

the first half of the 17th century. Secretary of the Holstein Embassy Adam Olearius. He argued that "no nation is so drunk as the Russians, and even the clergy are no exception", "clergy are often so drunk that only one can distinguish them from drunken laymen by their clothes." Olearius considered drunkenness to be a natural, everyday state of Russians: "if you see drunk people lying around in the mud on the streets, then you do not pay attention to them, as to the most common phenomenon." With undisguised irony, this traveler describes the custom of offering a glass of vodka as a sign of attention. He cites several cases

when not only ordinary people, but also the royal ambassadors, fearing of offending with a refusal, got drunk to death. However, it must be borne in mind that foreign diplomats and merchants are very often

nearby were biased towards the "barbaric" Muscovy, guided by fleeting and superficial ideas about a country alien to them, not knowing its language and customs. A kind of stable clichés were formed that wandered through the pages of the notes for centuries, and only a few travelers set out to critically check the messages of their predecessors. During the Middle Ages, the urban population of Russia was very small, but it was precisely with the life of the townspeople that foreigners encountered, describing most often their holidays, behavior on the square in front of the sovereign's tavern. Foreign observers knew very little or nothing about the life of the village, where the overwhelming majority of the Russian people lived. An objective study of sources inevitably entails a critical revision of legends and myths. The historian Kostomarov wrote that the Russians always gave drunkenness some

heroic meaning, even the heroes in epics tried to get drunk with each other. The royal ambassadors abroad astonished foreigners with their excessive drinking. As an explanation, one can cite the arguments of traditional hospitality and a cold climate. In addition, the Russian peasant or worker could not imagine merriment without drunkenness. At the beginning of the twentieth century, in Russia, per thousand souls, two people died from opulence; there was a huge connection between alcoholism and suicide, mental illness, and increased crime. All this data was not hidden. In 1873 in a St. Petersburg newspaper

"Citizen" it was calculated that there are 180 taverns and 21 schools for 62,700 inhabitants living in one of the neighboring counties. There is one student and 95 buckets of vodka per 100 inhabitants per year. The population pays 301,320 rubles for all vodka, and 2,000 rubles for schools. Consequently, each resident, including babies, allocated 4 rubles 80 kopecks a year for vodka, and a little over 3 kopecks for school. Are conclusions and parallels with the present needed? They are already asking themselves. Drunkenness led to theft. In the same year 1873, in the report of a member

The State Duma heard that in St. Petersburg "stone slabs are being carried away from stairs and sidewalks, iron piles are being pulled out of bridges, city lights are being carried away from poles, monuments are being destroyed, and gratings are being carried away." All this is then sold in the "thieves' row", and the money goes to taverns. "Our streets," reported the "Citizen", "have become unsafe from drunkards." And now lovers of colored scrap are trying - oh, they didn't get an old St. Petersburg newspaper of the last century!

The authorities actively fought against excessive drinkers. At the end of the 19th century in St. Petersburg, the existence of taverns in the city center at 180 addresses was prohibited: on Nevsky Prospect from the Admiralty to Znamenskaya Square (Vosstaniya Square); along the entire embankment of the Neva - the left bank; on Konnogvardeisky Boulevard; on Bolshaya and Malaya Morskie; at the Theater Square; on Millionnaya Street; on the embankment of the Neva along Vasilievsky Island to the 17th line, etc. Readings were arranged for the people. So, in 1912 a special performance

about alcoholism and the fight against it was made by Dr. Arkin. According to him, about 6 thousand people died annually from opiate or delirium tremens in Russia. Doctor

cited the example of Western countries, where they successfully fought the epidemic of alcoholism. The problem also existed in the fact that a well-fed European drank regularly and a little, and a hungry Russian worker drank half to death. In 1912, the Russian State Duma adopted a bill on measures to

the fight against drunkenness. It was forbidden to sell hard liquor in buffets of all institutions, gardens, theaters, concerts. The sale of alcohol was allowed only in shops located within the city. All this should have been no closer than 40 sazhens (in capital and provincial cities) and 100 sazhens (in other places) from churches. It was not allowed to trade in alcohol on credit, on account of the future harvest, under the pledge of dresses and things. The perpetrators were punished for the first time with arrest for up to a month or with a fine of up to 100 rubles, the second and further - with arrest for up to 3 weeks or a fine of up to 300 rubles. For the manufacture, storage and sale of spirits was imprisonment from 4 to 8 months. In order to drink less vodka on the street, they demanded to better cork and seal dishes with this liquid. In 1913, there were projects to reduce the strength of vodka to 30 degrees at

the same price; introduce anti-alcohol courses in schools; reduce the number of places where spirits are sold; prohibit their sale to hoppy individuals, children, adolescents and women; to prohibit this trade on Saturdays, on pre-holidays, church holidays - up to 200 days a year. In the event of popular unrest, the local administration could stop the sale without approval. But the projects, as we see, did not come true. It was intended to increase the number of teahouses as a countermeasure to the potion. There were sobering-up centers in old Russia, and compulsory treatment for

alcoholism, but we will not talk about that now. This is how the mysterious Russian soul is having fun - on a grand scale overcoming the distance from standing honeys to the "red hat". This is where you will welcome the movement backwards.

In the set of Old Russian laws, Russkaya Pravda, it is said that the collector of payments, as well as the craftsmen who were repairing the city fortifications, were supposed to have a bucket of malt every day so that they could brew a intoxicating drink for themselves. And yet, initially beer in Russia was persecuted by

state. The princes more willingly encouraged the production of vodka or, as they called it, bread wine, which cost the state many times less than beer. However, this does not mean that there was no beer at all in Russia. There was beer, but only a limited circle of people enjoyed the right to taste the amber drink: the clergy, boyars, guardsmen and other servants of the sovereign. Grand Duke Ivan III during his reign (1462-1505) prohibited

brew beer and consume hops, assigning this right to the state. Under Boris Godunov (1598-1605) it was forbidden to brew beer for "middle and young" people. Malt, hops, and honey were charged with a “brush” duty. And during the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich (1645-1676), peasants were allowed to brew beer for home drinking several times a year - on Great Day, Dmitrievskaya Saturday on Maslenitsa and Christmas. Such feasts on great holidays were called "special beer". At the same time, proverbs were formed: "On Dmitriev's day, and a sparrow brews beer under a bush" or "We drank beer about Maslyan, and broke with a hangover after Radunitsa." The right to brew beer

was given only to the best, most hard-working peasants. Kabatsky's head sealed the remaining beer until the next holiday. The situation began to change under Peter the Great, when it was decided to give

taverns at the mercy. (Pubs were called pubs, where, in addition to beer, vodka and honey were served.) But the owners of the purchased taverns began to oust beer from there for the already mentioned reason: it was much more profitable to sell vodka. Brewers had no choice but to open their own breweries, and their ingenuity could be envied. At that time, many brewers were very enlightened people and, opening their establishments, they counted on an elite audience, in modern terms, i.e. to people for whom sipping beer was just an invariable attribute of small talk. The furnishings in such establishments, porter shops, were done in a Western manner, and the sale of hot and cold food was allowed. For a pleasant pastime, they gave music, arranged some entertainment games.

Also, along with porter shops, there were institutions called "beer hall". In them, trade was carried out "for drinks and for take-away until 1 am". Cold snacks were served, tables were covered with snow-white tablecloths, and there were images of eagles on thick beer mugs. In the summer, the tables were taken out on the verandas for the greater comfort of guests contemplating the evening life of the city. It is known that they served light beer "Export". There were also local and metropolitan newspapers and magazines in the beer halls. The main audience of these institutions were officials, city solicitors and young people with a profession fashionable at that time - a telegraph operator. The public is "clean", but poor - students, intellectuals - attended

the so-called "Rena cellars", where, in addition to beer, honey and vodka, Russian and foreign grape wines were served. Similar establishments, where beer and wine coexisted, were buffets - especially at numerous exhibitions, on steamships and railway stations. In 1895, there were 500 Rennes cellars and 20 buffets in Moscow. The common people also had an opportunity to sip beer. Coachmen and artisans

they liked to sit in numerous beer shops, affectionately nicknamed "pubs". In the same 1895, there were more than 400 of them in Moscow. But in these drinking establishments one could only drink beer or honey, eat cold snacks and immediately leave, but it was not allowed to sit and wiggle. And this, to a certain extent, held back drunkenness. In April 1906, new laws were passed regulating the beer

trade, which caused a significant growth in the beer business. For comparison: if in 1905 there were about 9,000 such establishments in the cities of Russia, then by 1912 there were already more than 23,000 of them. But the First World War broke out and hard times came for the entire brewing industry. Prohibition was passed in 1914, and after a couple of years, the revolution finally closed all beer shops in Russia.

I would like to draw a conclusion by quoting Ivan Gavrilovich Pryzhov:

fight against the forces of the harsh northern nature and defeat the foreign conquerors who came to the Russian land many times. "

Bibliography.

1. A.V. Tereshchenko "Life of the Russian people" Moscow, 2001 2. B.F. Brandt "The fight against drunkenness abroad and in Russia", Kiev, 1996. 3. I.G. Pryzhov "The history of pubs in Russia in connection with the history of the Russian people", Moscow, 1991

4. A.I. Kopanev. "Peasants of the Russian North in the 17th century." 1984 5. "Complete collection of laws of the Russian Empire", St. Petersburg, 1996 6. A. Oleari " Detailed description travels of the Holstein embassy to Muscovy and Persia in 1633, 36, 39 ", Translation by P. Barsov . Moscow, 1990