Sauerkraut soup recipe for pokhlebkin. cookbook

Section: William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin "NATIONAL CUISINE OF OUR PEOPLES" Page 6 of the Russian Cuisine section HOT Soup Soups Cabbage soup has been the main liquid hot dish on the Russian table for more than a millennium. It persisted steadily in different eras, although tastes changed, and never knew social barriers; it was used by all segments of the population. Of course, cabbage soup was not the same for everyone: some, more complete in composition, were called “rich”, others were said to be “empty”, since they were sometimes cooked from the same cabbage and onion. However, with all the numerous variations from "rich" to "empty" and with all regional (regional) varieties of cabbage soup; the traditional way of preparing them and the associated taste and aroma have always been preserved. The fact that they were cooked and then languished (infused) in a Russian oven was of great importance for creating a special, unique taste. The aroma of cabbage soup, ineradicable by anything, - "the spirit of grace" - has always stood in the Russian hut. Russian sayings were associated with the meaning of cabbage soup in everyday life: "cabbage soup is the head of everything," "cabbage soup is our food," and others. The amazing longevity of cabbage soup can be explained, perhaps, by their inappropriateness. Cabbage soup does not get bored with frequent use. They can be eaten almost every day at any time of the year. Cabbage soup in their most complete version consists of six main components - cabbage (or the leading vegetable mass replacing it), meat (or, in very rare cases, fish, mushrooms - dried and salted), roots (carrots, parsley root), spicy dressing (onion, celery, garlic, dill, pepper, bay leaf) and sour dressing (sour cream, apples, cabbage brine). Of these six components, the first and last, that is, the vegetable lead mass and the sour flavor, are indispensable and absolutely indispensable. The simplest cabbage soup can only consist of them, continuing to remain cabbage soup. As for the leading vegetable mass in cabbage, most often it is cabbage - fresh or sauerkraut. But this does not mean that cabbage soup is a soup with cabbage. The sign is the acid produced most often by the brine. sauerkraut(either as part of cabbage, or in its pure form) or, instead of it, sorrel (green cabbage soup), boiled green, wild or Antonov apples, salted mushrooms, as well as sour cream (in cabbage soup). That is why cabbage can be replaced in cabbage soup with various green, sour or neutral masses (sorrel, dampness, nettles, hogweed - in the so-called green borsch soup), as well as with a neutral vegetable mass that absorbs acid well (turnip or radish - in the so-called burdock cabbage soup) ). The cooking technology for all types of cabbage soup is the same. First, meat or mushrooms are boiled separately with roots and onions. Then cabbage or cabbage substitutes and acid are added to the finished broth. If sauerkraut is used for cabbage soup, then it is cooked separately from meat broth and connect with him after his readiness. In both cases, salt and spicy dressing are added only after boiling the vegetable mass to the required softness. Ready-made cabbage soup is seasoned with sour cream, most often during their serving. Initially, flour dressing (together with cabbage) was also introduced into the cabbage soup to make the soup broth denser. This was usually the case in the western and southern regions of Russia. However, such a dressing impairs the taste of the cabbage soup, coarsens their aroma. Therefore, with the advent of potatoes, in order to starch the broth, one or two potatoes were added to the cabbage soup - as a whole, before laying the cabbage and sour base. Moreover, often the potatoes are then removed from the cabbage soup, since it hardens from the acid. The addition of a small amount of cereals, usually buckwheat (1 tablespoon for the whole pot), which is completely boiled down, also contributes to the consolidation of the consistency of the broth in lean and green cabbage soup. The simpler the vegetable composition, the leaner they are, the more skill is required to prepare them. Real cabbage soup is inconceivable without a spicy dressing, which plays a significant role in the creation of the "happy spirit". First of all, the introduction of onions into cabbage soup is of great importance. In the best way is its double bookmark: the first time - a whole onion along with meat, roots and mushrooms (then this onion is taken out) and the second time - finely chopped onion (chopped) along with cabbage. At the same time, you should never add onion fried separately in butter to the cabbage soup - in this form it is not characteristic of real cabbage soup. In the same way, twice add to the cabbage soup and another spicy seasoning - parsley and celery: the first time - with the root, which is then taken out with the onion, the second time - at the end of cooking, in the form of greens. The rest of the spices - bay leaf, black pepper with crushed peas, dill and garlic are introduced as follows: the first two types - 15 minutes before cooking, the second two - along with parsley at the end of cooking. After that, the cabbage soup should be sure to stand under the lid, pomlet to infuse, for at least 10-15 minutes. It is at this time that cabbage soup "reaches its real taste": cabbage becomes soft, acidity and aroma of spices are transferred to vegetables. Therefore, before the cabbage soup was left to grind and languish after cooking in the light spirit of the Russian stove, where they did not cool down, or they put it on the edge of the stove, where the heat was retained, but the boiling stopped. The cabbage soup from sauerkraut... It is good to put them in a slightly heated oven for 10-15 minutes, or even more. Sometimes cabbage soup can last for several hours (from 12 to 24), which gives them a better and more peculiar taste. Such cabbage soup is called daily soup, they are prepared ahead of time, in a day. Finally, you should pay attention to two more circumstances that affect the quality of cabbage soup - the choice of meat and whitening or whitening. For cabbage soup there is beef, mostly fat - brisket, thin and thick edge, rump. To create a special smell, you can add a small amount of ham to the beef - tenth to eighth (and even a third in the south of Russia) of the weight of beef. In this case, beef in cabbage soup is always boiled in a whole piece, and the ham is chopped. All meat components are subjected to grinding only in prefabricated cabbage soup. Pork cabbage soup, found mainly in the regions bordering with Ukraine, is not typical of Russian cuisine. The same can be said about cabbage soup found in certain regions of Russia with fish instead of meat. For such cabbage soup, a special selection of fish (salted red - beluzhins and sturgeons, in combination with river fish - perches, crucians and tench) and their separate heat treatment... Another method of cooking cabbage soup with fish, moreover, with its other varieties, gives less tasty dish , which therefore did not receive distribution. As for whitewash, good cabbage soup cannot do without it. The role of whitening is usually performed by sour cream, which is also an acidifier. Sometimes sour cream is replaced with yogurt or just milk. In rich sauerkraut cabbage soup, a mixture of sour cream and cream in a 4: 1 ratio serves as whitening. This is a very tasty whitewash. A few words about the consistency of cabbage soup. Cabbage soup of all types can be thick or liquid, depending on the ratio of water and the mass of the nested products. Once upon a time, thick cabbage soup was considered ideal, in which "a spoon is standing", or "cabbage soup with a slide," that is, when a piece of meat rises above the surface of the liquid and thick poured into the plate. Ours are designed for cabbage soup of more than medium density; this means that the amount of liquid per 1 serving should not exceed 350 g. Therefore, cold water should be poured no more than 2 liters for 4 servings, and preferably 1.5 liters, so that the finished broth is 1.25 1 liter (after boiling). It should be cooked for 2 hours. Spices are added to the cabbage soup for 5-10 minutes until cooked. Cabbage soup is usually eaten with black, rye bread. RICH SHIPS (FULL) Ingredients: 750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions , 1 root and celery, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of marjoram or dry angelica (dawn). Preparation 1. Put the beef together with the onion and half the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and cook for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, season with salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots. 2. Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over it, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, take it out and combine with strained broth and beef. 3. Put the mushrooms and the potato cut into 4 parts in an enamel saucepan, pour 2 glasses of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and put them back in the mushroom broth to cook. After mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with meat broth. 4. To the combined broths and cabbage, add the finely chopped onion and all the other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream right on the plates. POLISHED SHIPS Ingredients: 250 g of beef, 200 g of lamb, 100 g of ham, 100 g of chicken, 100 g of duck or goose, 500-700 g of sauerkraut, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 1 teaspoon of marjoram, 3 bay leaves, 4 cloves of garlic, 10 black peppercorns, 100 g of sour cream. Cooking Cook according to the previous recipe, that is, the meat or cabbage parts are first cooked separately, then, bringing the meat to half-readiness, combine. Each type of meat is cut into 4 pieces. Spices are placed 10 minutes before the soup is cooked. Fasting Shchi Ingredients: 500-750 g of sauerkraut, 5-6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of buckwheat, 2 onions, 1 potato, 1 carrot, 1 turnip or rutabaga, 1 parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4 cloves of garlic, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream, 1-2 tbsp. spoons of poppy seed, sunflower or olive oil. Preparation 1. Pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over sauerkraut and put in a clay pot in the oven for 20-30 minutes. Then pour the broth into a separate enamel or earthenware dish, and salt the cabbage, mix with finely chopped onions, moisten with prepared flavored (7) vegetable oil and rub in an enamel bowl with a wooden spoon so that the oil is completely rubbed in. Then reconnect with the broth and continue to cook on the stove. (7) For flavoring, oil is heated (but not fried) in a skillet or saucepan and seeds of coriander, anise, fennel, dill or celery, parsley are added to it. 2. Prepare 1 liter of mushroom broth, as indicated in point 3, combine broth with cabbage, adding to it buckwheat, and continue to cook until the cabbage is done. SIMPLE MEAT SHIPS Ingredients: 500 g of beef shank, 100 g of ham, 500-750 g of sauerkraut, 100 g of sour cream, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 2 onions, 1-2 potatoes, 3 bay leaves, 4 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 8 black peppercorns. Preparation Pour boiling water over the beef and ham, add the onion, potatoes and part of the roots (whole), cook for 1.5 hours until the meat is half cooked. Then put the cabbage grated with salt and chopped onions, the rest of the roots, cut into strips, and continue to cook for 1 more teaspoon. Partially lay the spices - without parsley, dill and garlic. After cooking the cabbage soup, wrap it up in a warm one, and after 3-4 hours put it in the cold for one day. The next day, warm up, add spicy herbs and garlic, sour cream. LAZY SHIPS (OR RACHMAN (8)) (8) Sometimes the name "Rakhmanovskie" is used incorrectly. In fact, the word "rakhmanny" means "lazy, rustic, sluggish" (in Old Russian). In the old days, rakhman cabbage soup was cooked from fresh greens (sleepy) or cabbage, sometimes with fish, then any cabbage soup prepared hastily from non-acidic green components began to be called rakhman cabbage, from the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. they began to be called lazy and cooked only from fresh cabbage. Ingredients: 500 g beef brisket (but more common vegetarian option), 750 g fresh cabbage (head of cabbage), 3 onions, 1 carrot, 1 potato (in half), 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 celery (root and herbs), 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 1 teaspoon of marjoram, 2 bay leaves, 10 black peppercorns, 8 cloves of garlic, 200 g sour cream, 1 tomato. Preparation 1. Cook the broth from the meat, as usual for cabbage soup, with onions and roots, potatoes for 2 hours, strain. 2. To clear the head of cabbage from the outer leaves, cut out the stalk, without violating the integrity of the head, put it in cold, slightly salted water for 30 minutes. Then remove, scald with boiling water and cut into large squares (2x2 cm). 3. Put prepared cabbage, chopped onion, tomato cut into 4 parts and the remaining roots cut into strips into the prepared broth, season with salt and continue to cook until the cabbage and roots are cooked over medium heat. Season with spices and sour cream. Sour cabbage soup Ingredients: 500-750 g of beef brisket, 500-750 g of fresh cabbage (a small head of cabbage or half a head of cabbage), 6-8 small green unripe apples of any kind, 2 onions, 0.5 turnips, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 3 bay leaves, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream. Preparation Cook the usual meat broth for cabbage soup (see previous). When the meat is almost ready, put the cabbage, cut into squares (1x1 cm), finely chopped onion, roots, after 15 minutes of cooking add the apples cut into strips, and after another 5 minutes - spicy herbs and cook until the apples are completely boiled ... Apples can be boiled separately in an enameled saucepan and this broth (1 glass) can be added to almost ready-made cabbage soup. This cabbage soup can be cooked without meat. GRAY SHEETS (SEEDLING) Ingredients: 500 g of beef, 100 g of ham, 750 g of cabbage seedlings, 1 glass of nettles (scalded), 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 onions, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 6 peas of black pepper, 4 peas of allspice, 100 g of sour cream, 0.5 tsp of citric acid. Preparation 1. Prepare the meat broth for the cabbage soup (see above). 2. Free the leaves of the seedlings from roots and stems, chop finely and then scald with steep salted boiling water, cover and leave in it for 10-15 minutes. Then fold back and pour into meat broth. 3. Rinse nettles cold water, pour over with boiling water, discard in a colander and quickly, without letting it secrete juice, chop finely and pour into the meat broth. 4. Continue to cook cabbage soup after laying cabbage and nettle together with spices for another 10-15 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill, garlic, citric acid , let it brew. Serve with sour cream and a hard egg (half per serving). GREEN SHIPS Ingredients: 500 g beef brisket, 0.75 liter can of sorrel, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 10 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves, 4 garlic cloves, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 100 g sour cream. Preparation 1. Cook the broth as indicated in the previous recipes. 2. Thoroughly rinse the sorrel in cold water, remove from the stalks, chop finely and put in the ready boiling broth. At the same time add finely chopped onion, chopped roots, spices, with the exception of garlic and dill, and cook for 10-15 minutes until the sorrel darkens. Add garlic and dill 2 minutes before the end of cooking. When serving, season with sour cream and finely chopped eggs. Note. Green cabbage soup can be cooked without meat. In this case, sorrel, roots and spices are added to 1.25 liters of boiling salted onion broth, into which another 1 tbsp is poured. a spoonful of rice and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of buckwheat. Cook for 15 minutes. NETTLE SHIPS Ingredients: 4 cups scalded nettle, 2 tbsp. spoons of buckwheat (kernel), 1 tbsp. spoon of rice, 1 potato, 2 eggs, 0.5 teaspoon of citric acid, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream, 1.25 liters of water. Preparation 1. Put spicy vegetables, finely chopped onions, cereals into boiling salted water or ready-made meat broth and boil for 10-12 minutes. 2. Then put the nettles prepared as follows. Free the leaves of young nettle (the upper three to four leaves) from the stalks, rinse thoroughly several times in cold water, scald with boiling water, quickly discard in a colander, preventing the nettle from letting out the juice, and immediately chop finely. Boil nettles in broth for 10-12 minutes. 3. Remove cabbage soup from heat, season with garlic, dill, citric acid, let it brew. WHIPE CHIP Ingredients: 500 g of beef brisket, 100 g of ham, 500 g of turnips, 1 rutabaga, 1-1.5 cups of cabbage pickle, 2 onions, 1 parsley, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of marjoram, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 tbsp ... spoons of dill, 100 g sour cream. Preparation Prepare like simple meat cabbage soup. Turnips and rutabagas, cut into strips, are placed in ready-made meat broth together with cabbage brine and boiled until vegetables are soft. Chows Chows are the first hot dishes, which are essentially strong vegetable broths. Unlike soups and cabbage soup cooked in meat broths, chowders are light soups based on water and vegetables (9). (9) Therefore, in principle, the sometimes incorrect restaurant name of the first course is meat (or chicken) stew. In stews, one vegetable component always prevails, by the name of which they are called: onion, potato, turnip, rutabaga, lentil, etc. Preference is given to tender vegetables that do not require prolonged cooking, and have their own characteristic aroma. Beans, beets, sauerkraut are never used in stews. The composition of the stew must include onions and spices, the selection of which is not the same for each type of stew. Spicy parsley, dill and celery, as well as garlic are the most common ingredients. Salt the chowder carefully and in different ways depending on the main vegetable component: potato - at the beginning of cooking, lentil - after the end of cooking, the rest - during cooking. It is also characteristic of the technology of making chowders that vegetables are placed not in cold water, but necessarily in boiling water (you can also dissolve finely chopped onions in it). Despite the seeming lightness and speed (they are cooked for about 20-30 minutes), cooking stews requires special attention and skills, more thoroughness when processing vegetables. It is necessary to preserve and bring to the table the light aroma of the soup, the smell of which can be damaged by insufficiently washed or poorly peeled vegetables. You need to know the order of the bookmark and the time for cooking vegetables and spices. The broth cannot be digested, because then all the aroma will evaporate, and the broth will become cloudy. Real stews are always transparent, and each has its own color. Unlike soups themselves, they are cooked without fats, without oil, like pure vegetable decoctions. Subsequent whitening with sour cream, and more often with cream, is allowed. But the whitening, and even more so the addition of butter, even butter, still changes the taste of the soup. They eat stews with black rye bread, preferably completely fresh, and hot immediately after cooking. Leaving the stew for another day and heating is not recommended. ONION BREAD Ingredients: 1.25 liters of water, 4-6 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 4-6 peas of black pepper, 1 teaspoon of salt. Preparation Cut the roots into strips, put in boiling water. Onion and finely chop the leeks (but not into rings), grind with salt in a china dish and pour into the boiling broth. Add pepper. When the onion is blooming and the broth turns green, add salt, add chopped spicy herbs and remove from heat after 3 minutes. Close, let it brew for 5 minutes. POTATO BREAD Ingredients: 1.5 liters of water, 5-6 potatoes, 1 onion, 0.5 heads of garlic, 3 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. dill spoon, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of parsley, 6-8 peas of black pepper. Preparation Put chopped onion, diced potatoes in salted boiling water and cook until the potatoes are tender. Add spices and herbs, respectively, 5-7 and 2 minutes until tender. WHIPE BREAD (REPNITSA) Ingredients: 1.5 liters of water, 5-6 turnips, 1 small rutabaga, 1 onion, 2 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 2 cloves, 4 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 4 cloves of garlic. Preparation Cook in the same way as potato stew. Add spices for 10 minutes, and spicy herbs for 2-3 minutes until cooked. LENTIL BREAD Ingredients: 1.5-1.75 liters of water, 1 glass of lentils, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 3 bay leaves, 6 black peppercorns, 0.5 heads of garlic, 1 tbsp. spoonful of savory herbs. Preparation Soak lentils in cold water for 24 hours. Before cooking, rinse again, cover with cold water and put on moderate heat. When it boils, add chopped roots and cook until the lentils are completely boiled (1.25-1 liters of liquid should remain). Then add the onion and other spices, except for garlic and savory, salt and cook over very low heat for another 10-12 minutes, then season with garlic and savory, remove from heat and let it brew for 5-8 minutes. UHA Ukha is a hot liquid fish dish, which, however, would be wrong to call fish soup. The name "fish soup" was assigned exclusively to fish broth only from the end of the 17th - the beginning of the 18th centuries. In the XI-XII centuries. "Fish soup" was also called a fat made from meat, in the XVI-XVII centuries. - from chicken. However, already from the 15th century, fish soup was increasingly being made from fish, which, better than other products, made it possible to create a dish that was fundamentally different from the rest of the liquid dishes of the Russian table. The ear has turned into a dish fast food, with a transparent liquid, similar to broth, so it cannot be seasoned, like fish soup, with oil, cereals, flour, overcooked onions, etc. Over the centuries, quite specific rules for the preparation of fish soup have developed, concerning the selection of fish varieties, dishes, quantity and the composition of vegetables and spices, the order of the bookmark and the cooking time. So, the soup should be cooked in non-oxidizable dishes (enamel, earthenware). The classic Russian fish soup is boiled from those fish that give a transparent broth, are distinguished by stickiness, tenderness and "sweetness". These are pike perch, perch, ruff, whitefish - they make the best, the so-called white ear. Usually one third of burbot, catfish, tench or ide is added to them. In second place for taste - ear from asp, carp, chub, cheese, crucian carp, carp, rudd. The ear of these fish is called black. Finally, a fish soup made from red fish - sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, nelma, salmon - is called red fish soup, or amber, when it is especially fatty and is made with saffron. In addition to these types of fish soup, classical Russian cuisine knows ordinary fish soup, patronized, lethargic, plastic and sweet. Uhu is usually cooked not from one kind of fish, but from at least two and at the most four. An exception may be fish soup made from red fish, which is also boiled from one type of fish. In a special place are regional varieties of fish soup - sterlet ear (sterlet, Volga), smelt ear (Chudskaya, Pskov) and smelt ear (10) together with salted mushrooms - the so-called lachskaya ear (lazhskaya), or Onega. (10) Sushchik - small perches, ruffs, smelt dried in a Russian oven. Roach, bream, gudgeon, bleak, roach, ram, as well as all kinds of herring, mackerel, sabrefish, gobies are not suitable for fish soup. They are best used for making fish soups. There is an opinion that a good fish soup cannot be prepared from sea fish. This is not true. Many of the saltwater fish are well suited for boiling fish soup. These are cod, halibut, macrorus, notothenia, coal fish, vomer, ice fish, squam, sea bass. Cod and halibut, for example, were previously used for the preparation of Pomor (Arkhangelsk) fish soup. Usually, they try to cook fish soup from freshwater fish immediately after catching it. How fresh fish, so tastier than ear... This also applies entirely to sea fish. Therefore, if it is frozen, then for better preservation of freshness, it should not be thawed before placing it in the ear. It is also necessary to choose a younger, smaller fish for the fish soup, trying, moreover, to take the tail, which is less prone to spoilage. The most successful for fish soup is a combination of lean fish (cod, ice, macrorus, vomer) with fat (halibut, sea bass, squam, notothenia). A minimum of vegetables is put in the ear - a small amount of potatoes (and non-crumbly, sweet varieties), carrots and always onions. If the fish soup is prepared from live fish, then only onions are put in it. If you use fresh, but already asleep fish, then the vegetables must be put. In addition, a rather large set of spices is introduced: parsley (root and herbs), leeks, green onions, dill, black pepper, bay leaves, tarragon, parsnips, and saffron, nutmeg, ginger, anise are added to some types of fish soup, fennel. Usually, the range of spices depends on the type of fish - the fattier the fish, the more spices are required for the fish soup. It is extremely important to observe the correct cooking mode to create a unique taste and aroma of fish soup. First of all, it is necessary to prepare a broth for the fish soup - a boiling salted vegetable broth, where the fish is lowered for a short time (from 7 to 20 minutes). The main purpose of preparing the broth is to create an environment for the fish in which it would not be completely digested, that is, it would remain tasty and juicy. Previously, for this purpose, small fish were first completely digested in the broth, as well as heads and bones, which were then thrown away, and the broth was filtered and clarified with an egg-white draw. And only then in this fish broth were boiled pieces of larger fish or its fillets, intended for eating with fish soup. Later, the broth consistency was achieved by boiling potatoes in it. This technique is more suitable for cooking fish soup from sea fish. The duration of cooking fish depends entirely on the type of fish: freshwater fish is cooked for 15-20 minutes (and fish from Siberian rivers for 25-30 minutes), sea fish - 8-12 minutes. Digestion of marine fish degrades the quality fish meat, makes it hard and worsens the taste of the broth itself, which becomes less sweet, less aromatic. You should also pay attention to the fact that the ear will turn out to be much tastier if you cook it without a lid, in an open container and over moderate or low heat. An indicator of the readiness of the fish soup is a slight lag of fish meat from the bones, and an indicator of good quality is the transparency of the broth, its delicate aroma, and the bright whiteness of fish meat. The fish soup should not have a specific fishy odor, which fish soups often have, when cooking the fish is allowed to boil too much. They eat fish soup with black bread or with fish pies, pies stuffed with vyziga, sago, rice and eggs, onions or fish (pies). Below are the modern ordinary fish soup - from river and sea fish, as well as old varieties of Russian fish soup: combined, crucian carp, patronized, sweet, crayfish. The differences in their preparation are insignificant, but still there. EAR EAR (FROM RIVER FISH) Ingredients: 1.5 kg of fish, 1.75 l of water, 2 onions, 0.5 carrots (small), 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 parsnip root, 2 potatoes, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tbsp. spoon of tarragon, 2 teaspoons of salt. Preparation In salted boiling water, put potatoes, cut into quarters, fish heads and tails, finely chopped onions, carrots and parsley cut into strips and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, then remove the foam, strain if desired, then put bay leaves, pepper, boil for another 5 minutes, increase the heat and lower the fish, peeled and cut into large pieces (4-5 cm wide) into the finished broth, cook it over moderate heat for 15-17 minutes, not letting it boil too much. At the end, if necessary, add salt, cover with parsley, dill and tarragon, remove from heat, close the lid and let it brew for 7-8 minutes. EAR EAR (FROM SEAFISH) Ingredients: 1.5 kg fish or 1.25 kg fillets (about 0.5 kg each cod, halibut, sea ​​bass), 1.75 liters of water, 2 onions, 0.5 carrots, 3 potatoes, 4 bay leaves, 10-12 black peppercorns, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 4-5 saffron stamens, 2 teaspoons of salt, 4 slices (circle) of lemon. Preparation Put diced potatoes in salted boiling water, chopped carrots and parsley, finely chopped onions, boil for 10-15 minutes over medium heat until the potatoes are half cooked, then add all the spices, except for dill and a part of the leek, and after 3 minutes - chopped into large pieces fish and continue to cook for another 8 minutes over moderate heat. Add salt if necessary. A minute before the readiness to fall asleep dill, leek. Let it brew, put lemon (see the previous recipe). FITTING EAR The fish part of the fish soup includes river and red fish in a ratio of 2: 1 or 1: 1. The cooking procedure is the same as for an ordinary fish soup. From spices, in addition to those used in ordinary river fish soup, you can add saffron and ginger (on the tip of a knife). BAKED EAR Ingredients: The set of products is the same as for ordinary fish soup. Cooking Boiled fish soup can be cooked in two ways. 1. Boil the heads, tails, bones from the cut fish for 20-30 minutes over moderate heat, strain the broth and boil large pieces of fish fillets in it for 5 minutes. Then take out the fish, dip it in an egg beaten with 1 teaspoon of flour, lightly fry (bake - hence "patronized") in a frying pan in butter and again immerse in boiling fish broth to cook for another 3-5 minutes. 2. Put fish, vegetables, spices in an earthen pot, pour boiling water over, cover, put in a preheated oven over high heat for 15 minutes. When the ear starts to boil, remove from the oven, add 1 tbsp. spoon butter, pour well-beaten 1-2 eggs on top and put them back in the oven for 15 minutes - until the eggs are completely baked (baked). UKHA CARASSIUM Cook in the same way as ordinary fish soup from river fish (see above), but instead of potatoes put 2 tbsp. spoons of washed rice. First, boil the heads of the crucians separately, and then strain the broth and put the crucians themselves in it, without cutting them into pieces. This ear is not salted. PLASTIC UKHA Cook in the same way as ordinary fish soup, but from salted and dried fish, spread lengthwise. Initially, such fish must be scalded with boiling water in which anise or fennel was cooked. After that, it can be put in the ear, but not 1.5 kg, as for an ordinary fish soup, but 1 kg. UKHA WILD Cook in the same way as an ordinary one, but from dried in the sun small fish or from the essence. You can add dry or fresh mushrooms to it. SWEET UKHA Cook like an ordinary river fish soup, but take twice as many carrots (whole carrots instead of half) and cut them into small cubes. You should also increase the proportion of parsnips, and as additional spices in the broth in a gauze bag, boil for 5-7 minutes (and then take out) 1 teaspoon of anise or fennel seeds. CRAWL EAR The fish part of this fish soup includes 2 parts of crayfish meat and 1 part of fish meat, best of all pike or other freshwater fish. From this mixture, make a body with the addition of onions, black pepper and 1 tbsp. tablespoons of wheat flour (per 1 kg of fish). Cook the soup from small fresh river fish, which after boiling take out, then strain the broth and lower the body into it, with which to pre-fill the cancerous shells. The laying of vegetables and spices is the same as for an ordinary fish soup, with the exception of dill, which must be taken twice as much. KALIA Kalya - widespread in the XVI-XVII centuries. fish liquid first course. Subsequently, it gradually almost fell out of use, and in some places it was incorrectly called fish pickle. It is prepared in basically the same way as fish soup, but pickles, cucumber pickle, lemons and lemon juice are added to the broth for kali, either individually or together. A distinctive feature of kalya used to be that usually only fatty fish, mostly red, was used for it, and caviar was placed in it along with fish. Currently, good kalya can be prepared from sea fish, traditionally used in the Russian North - for example, from halibut, catfish, which are quite fatty and, moreover, go well with a salty-sour base. In kalyu, as a rule, there are more spices than in the ear. Kalya is thicker than fish soup, the broth in it is sharper and denser in consistency, and in terms of quantity it is always less than in the ear. Previously, kalya was considered a festive dish. Ingredients: 1.5 kg of fish, 1.5-1.75 l of water, 2 pickles, 1 cup of cucumber pickle, 3-4 potatoes, 0.5 lemons, 2 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley (root and greens), 1 carrot, 10 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 5-6 saffron stamens, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fresh or 1 teaspoon of dry tarragon. Preparation First, cook like fish soup: prepare vegetable broth (see description of fish soup preparation), then add boiled cucumber pickle to it, add pickled cucumbers diced, then lower the fish, cut into large pieces. Cook for 8 to 20 minutes, depending on the type of fish (see. description of fish soup preparation). Season with spices in the same way and in the same order as the fish soup. In conclusion, put the dill, part of the leek, tarragon, squeeze the lemon juice into the kale, already removed from the heat, and let it brew. Pickles Rassolnik is a hot liquid first course on a sour-salted cucumber base. This dish was finally developed in Russian cuisine quite late - only in the middle of the 19th century, about the same time the name "rassolnik" was assigned to it. Meanwhile, the use of cucumber pickle as a basis for making soups was already known from at least from the 15th century The amount of brine, its concentration and ratio with the rest of the liquid, as well as the combination with other basic soup products (fish, meat, vegetables and cereals) were, however, so different that they gave rise to various dishes with different names : kali, hangovers, hodgepodge and, finally, pickles. The latter began to be called moderately sour-salty soups only on a cucumber basis - vegetarian or more often with offal; by cali it was customary to understand only slightly acidic fish soups, and more acidic and more concentrated ones were released into hangovers and hodgepodge. Since the recipe for pickles was formed rather late, they included potatoes and rice, while the boiled beets that were included in the old pickles were subsequently completely excluded. Modern pickles include pickles, potatoes and other root vegetables of a neutral taste (carrots, turnips, rutabagas), cereals (buckwheat, barley, pearl barley or rice), a large number of spicy vegetables and spicy herbs (onions, leeks, celery, parsley, parsnips, dill, tarragon, savory) and some classic spices (bay leaves, allspice and black pepper). As meat in pickles, there are mainly offal - either only beef or veal kidneys, or all offal (stomach, liver, heart, lungs, neck, legs) from poultry (chicken, turkey, duck and goose). In the absence of by-products, they are replaced with beef meat - usually a curl, or a shank (shank). Grits for pickle are selected in accordance with the meat used in it: pearl barley - in pickle with kidneys and beef, rice - in pickle with chicken and turkey offal, barley - for duck and goose offal, buckwheat and rice - in vegetarian pickle. In the same way, spices are selected in different ways for different types of pickles. In order for pickles to have a delicate, slightly acidic and slightly salted taste, a balance must be observed in them between the salted part (cucumbers) and neutral absorbers (cereals, potatoes, root vegetables - 0.5 cups per 1.5 liters of soup). Therefore, pure brine is rarely added to pickles and in small doses - if the cucumbers themselves are not salty enough. In this case, the brine is pre-boiled before pouring into the broth. Like most Russian soups, pickles are whitened with sour cream. MEAT BRINE Ingredients: 250-300 g of kidneys, 3 pickles, 0.5 cups of cucumber pickle, 2-3 potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of pearl barley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 celery (root and herbs), 3 bay leaves, 6 black peppercorns, 2 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 100 g sour cream. Preparation Preparing the kidneys. Cut off the kidneys from films and fat, soak in water for 6-8 hours, changing the water, boil for 20-30 minutes in boiling water, remove, cut into small slices. Preparation of cereals. Rinse the groats with cold water, pour boiling water in a saucepan and put to steam for 30-45 minutes, changing the boiling water. Preparing cucumbers. Cut the skin off the cucumbers, pour 1-1.5 cups of boiling water over it and boil over low heat for 10-15 minutes, then discard the boiled skin, and lower the flesh of the cucumbers, cut lengthwise into 4 parts, into the brine, and then cross into small slices, let for another 10 minutes. Cooking pickle. Put the prepared kidneys in 1.5 liters of boiling water, boil for about 30 minutes, add chopped roots (carrots, parsley, celery), prepared cereals, after 10-15 minutes - potatoes, finely chopped onions and cook until the potatoes are cooked over medium heat. Then add the prepared cucumbers, try whether the broth is salty enough, top up, if necessary, brine or salt, add spices and continue cooking for another 10-15 minutes, after which, making sure the kidneys are ready, season with spicy herbs and cook for another 3 minutes. Season with sour cream when serving. Chicken pickle Ingredients: Giblets from 2 chickens, 4 pickles, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 3 tbsp. spoons of rice, 1 onion, 1 leek, 1 parsley (root and herbs), 2 tbsp. dill spoons, 1 tbsp. tarragon spoon, 1 tbsp. spoon of savory herbs, 8 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves of garlic, 25-30 g of butter. Preparation In 1.5 liters of boiling water, put thoroughly washed and cut chicken offal into small pieces and cook for about 1 hour, then season with roots, washed rice several times and cook until half cooked, removing the foam. Then season with finely chopped onions and leeks, as well as pepper, bay leaves and cook until rice is cooked, add prepared cucumbers (see the recipe above), cook for another 5-7 minutes, add spicy herbs and cook for 3 minutes, then remove from heat and season with garlic, ground with butter and salt. VEGETABLE BRINE Ingredients: 3-4 pickles, 1 potato, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 3 tbsp. buckwheat spoons or rice groats, 1 parsnip (root and greens), 2 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 1 celery (root and greens), 8 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. dill spoon, 0.5 tbsp. spoons of tarragon, 25 g of butter, 100 g of sour cream. Preparation In 1.5 liters of boiling water, boil vegetables and cereals, season with separately prepared cucumbers (see the recipe "Meat pickle") and spicy herbs. SOLYANKI Solyanka - thick spicy soups that combine the components of cabbage soup (cabbage, sour cream) and pickles (pickles, cucumber pickle), with a significantly enhanced sour-salty-spicy base as a result of the addition of seasonings such as olives, capers, tomatoes, lemon , lemon juice, kvass, pickled or pickled mushrooms. Sometimes vinegar is also added to the hodgepodge, but this coarsens their taste, such a seasoning indicates poor cuisine. Solyanka are of three types: meat, fish (with a different set of different types of meat, poultry and fish) and simple (or mushroom). The first two types are prepared, respectively, on strong meat and fish broth, the last on mushroom or vegetable broth. These broths are diluted with cucumber pickle. Solyanka soups, in contrast to the second course solyanka similar to them in the recipe, which do not have liquid and are baked in pans, are called liquid solyanka. However, there is little liquid in liquid solyanka (1/3 less than in other types of soups), and this liquid is concentrated and spicy. The liquid and thick parts of the hodgepodge are prepared completely separately and combined 5-10-15 minutes before serving and not so much for cooking, but for warming up and creating a flavor. MEAT SOLYANKA Ingredients: 1.25 l of meat or bone strong broth, 1-2 glasses of cucumber pickle, 200 g boiled beef, 200 g roast beef or veal, 100 g ham, 100 g sausages, 1/4 chicken, 2 pickles, 200-250 g fresh cabbage (about 1/4 of a small head of cabbage), 2 tomatoes, 100 g sour cream, 12 olives, 1-1.5 glasses of salted mushrooms, 1-2 tbsp. spoons of capers, 1 onion, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of parsley, 1 tbsp. dill spoon, 2 tbsp. spoons of green onions, 10 black peppercorns, 3 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns. Preparation 1. Boil the cucumber pickle, remove the scale. Combine the brine with meat broth, bring to a boil. 2. Cut meat, ham, sausages, chicken fillets into small cubes. 3. Pour salted mushrooms and fresh cabbage with boiling water, then cut into cubes. 4. Cut tomatoes, cucumbers and onions into small cubes. 5. The products specified in points 2, 3, 4, together with spices and sour cream, put in a clay pot, pour boiling broth and put in the oven for 10-15 minutes. In the absence of a pot, put it in an enamel bowl and heat (simmer) over low heat, not letting it boil, also for 10-15 minutes. FISH SALTWOOD Ingredients: 1.25 l of fish broth, 1 glass of cucumber pickle, 0.5-1 lemon, 500 g of fish fillets, 10-12 crayfish, 250 g of boiled salted pink salmon, chum salmon, 250 g of fresh sturgeon, 2 onions, 2 pickles (or 10-12 gherkins), 2 tomatoes, 2 tbsp. spoons of capers, 12 olives, 1., 5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot (large), 1 parsley (root and greens), 10 black peppercorns, 2 tbsp. dill spoons, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of green onions, 4 bay leaves, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of sunflower oil. Preparation 1. Combine fish broth with separately boiled cucumber brine, put carrots, parsley cut into strips and boil over low heat. 2. Saute finely chopped onions and tomatoes in butter. Scald the salted mushrooms, cut into cubes. 3. Cut the cucumbers into cubes, fresh fish into pieces and combine with the chopped salted fish, crayfish pulp and spices with the products specified in points 1 and 2. 4. Put the dishes in the oven or over low heat for 15 minutes. 5. Before serving, squeeze the lemon juice into the hodgepodge (you can cut the lemon into slices - without grains - and crush with a spoon). MUSHROOM SOLYANKA Ingredients: 1.5 liters of water, 6-8 dry porcini mushrooms, 2 cups of salted mushrooms, 12 olives, 2 cups of finely chopped cabbage, 1.5 cups of sauerkraut, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 0.5 cups sour cream, 1 celery, 2 onions, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of butter, 2 tomatoes, 3 bay leaves, 10 black peppercorns, 0.5 lemon or 0.5 cups of sour kvass. Preparation 1. Prepare the mushroom broth: boil dry mushrooms, remove them when softened, cut into strips, put them back to cook, adding carrots, parsley, celery, cut into strips. 2. Stew fresh and sauerkraut with tomatoes and onions in butter until soft. 3. Scald the salted mushrooms, cut into small pieces. 4. Combine the products specified in points 1, 2, 3, add spices and cook for 15 minutes over medium heat. Season the finished hodgepodge with sour cream and lemon juice. NOODLE SOUP Noodle soup is a type of soup borrowed by the Russians from the Tatars, but received Russian processing and distribution in Russia. Soup noodles are found most often in three types: chicken noodles, mushroom noodles, milk noodles. The preparation of all three types is extremely simple, it consists of preparing the noodles, boiling the appropriate broth and boiling the noodles in the broth. Noodles for all three types are made according to the same recipe, usually from wheat flour, as well as from a mixture of wheat and buckwheat. Mixed flour noodles work best with mushroom or milk broth. PREPARATION OF NOODLES Ingredients: 1 egg, 1.25 cups of wheat flour (of which 0.25 per bedding; or 1 cup of wheat, 0.25 cups of buckwheat), 2-4 egg shells of water (depending on the type of flour - for buckwheat it goes more water), 0.5 teaspoon of salt. Preparation Knead the tough dough, let it lie down, wrap it in a napkin for 10 minutes, roll it out with a rolling pin or a bottle into a layer as thin as possible (up to 1 mm), roll it into a tube, pre-wipe it with flour so that it does not stick together when rolling, and cut across the tube narrow stripes (1-2 mm) - noodles; then sprinkle it, let it dry slightly in the air while the broth is boiling. CHICKEN NOODLES Ingredients: 1.5-2 liters of chicken broth, wheat flour noodles and 1 egg (see above), 2 tbsp. dill spoons, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of parsley, 1 onion, 2 bay leaves, 6 peppercorns, 3-5 saffron stamens, 4 cloves of garlic. Preparation Boil the chicken, remove from the broth, let it boil, season with finely chopped onions, pepper, bay leaves, saffron, and pour the noodles into the boiling broth. Cook over medium heat until the noodles are tender. At the end of cooking, season with spicy herbs and garlic. MUSHROOM NOODLES Ingredients: 1.5-2 liters of water, noodles (see recipe above), 6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 celery (root and greens), 1 onion, 1 carrot, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 3 bay leaves, 6 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream (0.5 cups), 1 tbsp. spoon of dill, 1 teaspoon of salt. Preparation Put mushrooms in cold salted water and put on fire; when the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips, put to cook again, adding finely chopped vegetables. When the mushrooms are ready, pour the noodles into the boiling broth, add the pepper, bay leaf and cook over medium heat until the noodles are tender. At the end of cooking, season with spicy herbs, garlic and sour cream. MILK NOODLES Ingredients: 1.25-1.5 liters of milk, 0.5 cups of cream, noodles (see recipe above), 0.5 teaspoon of anise or coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon of salt. Preparation In 2-2.5 liters of boiling salted water, put anise or coriander seeds in a gauze bag, add noodles and cook until half cooked. Then put it in a colander, put it in boiling milk and cook until tender. At the end of cooking, season with cream (do not bring to a boil). >

Having finally turned off the chameleon mode on the suit, I left the bike next to a suspicious dark alley and trotted towards the nearest city park. Not the best choice, but I just need a rest, and there will definitely be a spreading tree, in the fork of which a small modest "clone" can spend the night.

At dawn, I crawled with difficulty down the trunk of some kind of gigantic giant and rubbed my tousled hair with my hands. I felt at the same time just disgusting. The effect of the stimulants ended, the weakness rolled over, and even the stomach whined pitifully, asking for something to eat. Considering that the last time I dined at the estate, you can understand him. She looked thoughtfully at her bracelet - no one took out the crystal for cashless payments. And the lord would hardly have been flattered by a couple of hundred credits, which I carried with me to pay for all sorts of pleasant trifles. Let's check it out! Walking quickly to the entrance to the park, I found a machine with all the little things and pressed the bracelet to the payment plate, voicing the order for a couple of energy bars and a can of juice.

With a quiet rustle, the machine dispensed my breakfast. We live!

Having settled down in a small gazebo entwined with flowers in the depths of the park, I calmly ate and climbed into the net. We need to plan what to do next. Oddly enough, most likely there will be no problems with money. Thanks to the contract with the tarians, I had my own account in the galactic bank, where my share of the profits was transferred. Albeit a small, but constant income from the portal dripped there. Over the past year, I have not spent anything trying to raise money for the operation, so the amount accumulated is decent. To access your finances, it will be enough to come to the bank and undergo a full scan. In the same way, by the way, on any planet you can get a copy of documents and exam results.

But what to do next? It is fraught with hare to get on some ship. Only after getting to know this world better, I realized how unrealistic it was for me to be lucky with Darren in my time. Apparently, fate keeps it for something! You can, of course, try to completely officially fly off the planet on the nearest ship, but it is hard to believe that a lonely ten-year-old child will not attract attention and will not raise questions. However, the same problem will appear when trying to rent a hotel room or rent some other accommodation. Hire someone to accompany you? As if not to be mistaken, there is no one here to cover me. If only someone from the acquaintances of "grandfather" Faber will help. But let's leave this option as a last resort.

Whichever side you look at - in the park or, forgive me, in the surrounding forests on the grazing forage you will not live. This is not serious.

So it looks like I'm just looking at the problem from the wrong side. Where is the best place to hide? And the answer is obvious. Among other children! Where can I find them? Yes, in the nearest boarding school! The new school year is just beginning. This is the perfect solution. Let them be surprised at the child who himself came and brought all the documents, but I think I can portray such an independent and self-sufficient comrade.

It's a good idea, especially considering that there are only a few days left before the start of the next school year. But for now, perhaps, there is no need to rush. And you need to consult with your friends. In the meantime, I'll go to the bank, it should just open.

Bank branches, to my annoyance, were located on the central streets. At any other time, I would gladly walk along them, admiring the architecture of the Old City or the fantastic skyscrapers of the new districts. But now I really didn’t want to attract too much attention to myself. But there is no choice. I think it's time. Sighing, she unfastened her kayres and tucked her horns into a pouch at her belt. I have long figured out how to take off this piece of jewelry, but I didn’t see the point in it. It is foolish to deprive yourself of an added advantage. Without the horns, I suddenly felt defenseless and vulnerable. There is no choice anyway. Having smoothed her hair and making sure that twigs and leaves were not tangled there, she left the park onto the street and sent an order for a taxi. Now I have no special signs left - I cut my long hair, took off the atypical "kayres", a simple black jumpsuit did not attract attention, at the same time covering the slave collar with a high neck. In general, a completely ordinary, unremarkable boy.

Having poured a couple of thousand credits into the crystal on the bracelet, I requested an account statement and rented a small cell. It is foolish to remove the horns from your forehead in order to carry them with you "in your pocket." Let them lie in the jar. Although I parted with them almost with tears in my eyes.

At the hardware store next door, I chose a simple, inexpensive "kayres" made of black brushed metal that completely covered the red marks left on my forehead by attaching the stun horns. Already at the exit, the throat covered with a fiery streak. Blindly searching for another portion of the vaccine in the pouch, I injected the antidote into my neck with trembling hands and tried to leave the central street as quickly as possible. It seems that the body of Lord Al "Cress has already been found. They quickly. Now we need to carefully follow the news. Eh, where is Payne now with his ability to catch the slightest nuances from seemingly completely ordinary messages!

When I got to the nearest automatic cafe, I ordered a basic breakfast and settled at a corner table. Fortunately, it was still too early, so there were hardly any people on the streets. In the cafe, besides me, there was only a tired man in a gray uniform of the city service - obviously just replaced from the night shift. A good place to explore the collar without distraction. Using the sia-ten, I tried to scan my neck jewelry and did not feel any response. Energetically, the narrow metallic strip felt ... dead? It seems that by injecting poison, the collar fulfilled its function and switched off. This means that the people who gave the order are sure that I am dead. Very good! With a jerk, she pulled the now completely safe silvery "velvet" from her neck and lowered it into the black mouth of the utilizer.

Half an hour later, with the help of a new "kayres" I contacted the portal. "Grandfather" Faber promised to shake the old days and arrange a cheerful life for the heirs of the Lord. Yet insider information about the sudden death of Al "Kressa opened up a lot of interesting financial prospects.

Mentor Tasha said that a certain amount was transferred to my account for warning about a planned crime on Grain. And once again he assured me that Darren would not get hurt.

There were still no messages from Payne - apparently, unexpected "companions" of my father continue to control the virtual. Well, they can be understood - the artificial intelligence that controls the ship could at any moment lock the doors in the cabin, or, conversely, unlock the airlock. Hope Payne and Darren are okay.

My idea - to hide in one of the local educational institutions - was unexpectedly supported by "grandfather" Faber. As it turned out, he has some acquaintances, and he even sent a couple of students to the Tariu-Loss cadet corps. It is a pity that I do not pass the age. But he will find out, perhaps there is an option for an eleven-year-old child. The misunderstanding was resolved quickly: they were admitted to the corps after passing the exams at the average minimum. That is, as a standard - at fifteen years old.

I proudly lifted my nose and sent my own certificate with the highest points for review. My interlocutor was sincerely delighted - this solved most of the issues. Now no one will even be surprised that someone is patronizing a clever but unconnected child. So Faber Far-Therin will make an agreement and I will be accepted for the exams. True, there will be no indulgences - you will have to hand over everything for real. He will send the application on my behalf right now, so today you can start answering the questions of the entrance exams. According to him, it is not worth stopping at the hotel either; it is better to go straight to the indicated address. You just need to take all the documents with you. "Grandpa" Faber takes care of the payment and other trifles.

An hour later, I was sitting on a wide stone curb near the closed gates of the cadet corps and, squinting in the sun, thought. Over the past day, so much has happened that I did not have time to react to events in time. They were going to torture me. I killed a man. They tried to kill me. I survived. Perhaps only the last point was really important. I survived, but my enemy died! And it's stupid to reflect on this.

A new, probably no less interesting period of my life will begin very soon. And in just a month Daren will get to Grain and will definitely contact me. After all, he simply cannot die, I'm waiting for him! In the meantime, I will study. I always liked it ...

Notes (edit)

1

GlavVred is an abbreviation for Main Harm. The second affectionate nickname for the Ghoul, given by his beloved subordinates.

2

A large bright ring with a large gem or several (the size of almost the entire phalanx). Usually, besides him, no other rings are worn.

3

Slang name for the Forces of Law and Order. This power structure is similar to the terrestrial Interpol.

4

Glamor is originally a comic, and then stuck name for nanofilm used in the Federation instead of an artificial atmosphere. It can contain both a person (used similarly to our spacesuit) and whole asteroids. The nanofilm has a shape memory (like almost any Tarian invention) and, having the ability to stretch in any given direction, as a result returns to its previous parameters.

5

In this case, Zhenya and Daren did not understand each other. Daren meant that jealous and cocky spouses are called "cuckolds", hinting at the rut and spring fights of horned males. And the history of "cuckolds" on Earth went from the Byzantine emperor Andronicus Comnenus (1183-1185), who allowed the husbands of his mistresses to hunt in his menagerie. On the gates of those who had such an advantage, antlers were displayed, for which their owners were dubbed "cuckolds".

Russian cuisine has long been widely known all over the world. This manifests itself both in direct penetration into the international restaurant cuisine of native Russians food products(caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat, rye flour, etc.) or some of the most famous dishes Russian national menu (jelly, cabbage soup, fish soup, pancakes, pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art on the cuisine of other nations. Assortment of Russian cuisine at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe is so great that they started talking about it by this time with the same respect as about the famous French cuisine.

Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which left an indelible mark.

Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest flowering in the XV-XVI centuries, although its formation covers a huge historical period, is characterized by common features, which have largely survived to this day.

At the beginning of this period, Russian bread made from sour (yeast) rye dough appeared - this uncrowned king is on our table, without him the Russian menu is unthinkable even now - and all the other most important types of Russian baked goods and flour products appeared: the known cakes, bagels, juices, crumpets, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were prepared exclusively on the basis of sour dough, which is so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its entire historical development. The addiction to sour, leavened foods was reflected in the creation of real Russian jelly - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern ones. Mostly berry jelly.

A large place in the menu was also occupied by a variety of gruel and porridge, which were originally considered ritual, solemn food.

All this bread, flour food was diversified most often with fish, mushrooms, wild berries, vegetables, milk and very rarely - with meat.

The appearance of classic Russian drinks - all kinds of honey, kvass, sbitney - dates back to the same time.
Already in the early period of the development of Russian cuisine, a sharp division of the Russian table into lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and non-meat (milk-egg-meat) emerged, which had a huge impact on its further development until the end of the 19th century. Artificial creation of the line between a fast and lean table, isolating some products from others, preventing them from mixing ultimately led to the creation of only a few original dishes, and the entire menu as a whole suffered - it became more monotonous, simplified.
We can say that the lean table was more fortunate: since most days of the year - from 192 to 216 in different years - were considered fast (and these fasts were observed very strictly), it was natural to strive to expand the range of the lean table. Hence the abundance of mushroom and fish dishes in Russian cuisine, the tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grain (porridge), vegetables, wild berries and herbs (nettle, snow, quinoa, etc.). Moreover, such well-known from the X century. vegetables like cabbage, turnips, radishes, peas, cucumbers were cooked and eaten - whether raw, salted, steamed, boiled or baked - separately from one another. Therefore, for example, salads and especially vinaigrettes were never characteristic of Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the 19th century. as borrowing from the West. But they were also initially made mainly with one vegetable, giving the appropriate name to the salad - cucumber salad, beet salad, potato salad, etc. - they were salted or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is still practiced today. The same can be said about fish, which was consumed boiled, dried, salted, baked, and less often fried. In the literature we find juicy, "tasty" names for fish dishes: sigovina, taimenina, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, sevryuzhina, beluzhina and others. And the ear could be perch, and ruff, and burbot, and sterlet, etc.

Thus, the number of dishes by name was enormous, but all of them differed little in content from one another. Taste variety was achieved, firstly, by the difference in heat and cold processing, as well as by the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive and, much later, sunflower), and secondly, by the use of spices. Of the latter, onions, garlic, horseradish, dill were most often used, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaves, black pepper and cloves, which appeared in Russia already in the 10th-11th centuries. Later, in the 15th - early 16th centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, calamus (ore root) and saffron.

In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there was also a tendency to use hot liquid dishes, which then received the general name "Khlebova". The most widespread are such types of bread as cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various pastes, brews, talkers, lettuce and other varieties of flour soups.

As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was not difficult. Meat, as a rule, was cooked in cabbage soup or gruel, milk was drunk raw, stewed or sour. Dairy products were used to make cottage cheese and sour cream, and the production of cream and butter remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the 15th-16th centuries. these products appeared rarely, irregularly.

The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the 16th century. and until the end of the 17th century. At this time, not only the further development of options for lean and light meals continues, but also the differences between the cuisines of various classes and estates are especially sharply marked. From this time on, the cuisine of the common people began to simplify more and more, the cuisine of the boyars, nobility and especially the nobility became more and more refined. She collects, integrates and generalizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian cuisine, creates new, more complex versions of old dishes on the basis of it, and also for the first time borrows and openly introduces into Russian cuisine a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques, mainly of oriental origin.

Particular attention is drawn to the modest festive table that time. Along with the usual corned beef and boiled meat, poultry (i.e., cooked on spits) and fried meat, poultry and game take pride of place on the table of the nobility. The types of meat processing are becoming more and more differentiated. So, beef is mainly used for cooking corned beef and for boiling (boiled slaughter); ham is made from pork for long-term storage, or it is used as fresh meat or dairy pig in fried and stewed form, and in Russia only meat, lean pork is valued; finally, lamb, poultry and game is used mainly for roasts and only partially (lamb) for stewing.

In the XVII century. all the main types of Russian soups were finally formed, while kals, hangover, hodgepodge, pickle soup, unknown in medieval Russia, appeared.

The lean table of the nobility is also enriched. Balyk, black caviar, which was eaten not only salted, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk, began to occupy a prominent place on it.

To the culinary of the 17th century. Eastern and primarily Tatar cuisine has a strong influence, which is associated with the accession in the second half of the 16th century. to the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan khanates, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that dishes from unleavened dough(noodles, dumplings), such products as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which has since become traditional in Russia. Thus, the sweet table is also significantly replenished. Next to the gingerbreads, known in Russia even before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of gingerbreads, sweet pies, candies, candied fruits, numerous jams, not only from berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in molasses) ... In the second half of the 17th century. they began to bring cane sugar to Russia (1), from which, together with spices, they cooked candies and snacks, sweets, delicacies, fruits, etc. But all these sweet dishes were mainly the privilege of the nobility (2).

The boyar table is characterized by an extraordinary abundance of dishes - up to 50, and at the royal table, their number rises to 150-200. The size of these dishes is also huge, for which the largest swans, geese, turkeys, the largest sturgeons or belugas are usually chosen - sometimes they are so large that three or four people lift them. At the same time, there is a desire to decorate dishes. Palaces are built from food, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual lasting 6-8 hours in a row - from 2 pm to 10 pm - and include almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two dozen) of the same name dishes, for example from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from a dozen types of pancakes or pies (3).

Thus, in the XVII century. Russian cuisine was already extremely diverse in the range of dishes (we are talking, of course, about the cuisine of the ruling classes). At the same time, the art of cooking in the sense of the ability to combine products, to reveal their taste was still at a very low level. Suffice it to say that mixing of products, their grinding, grinding, crushing was still not allowed. Most of all, this applied to the meat table. Therefore, Russian cuisine, in contrast to French and German, for a long time did not know and did not want to perceive various minced meat, rolls, pates and cutlets. All kinds of casseroles and puddings turned out to be alien to the old Russian cuisine. The desire to cook a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from a whole animal or plant, persisted until the 18th century. The exception, it seemed, were the fillings in pies, in whole animals and poultry, and in their parts - abomasum, omentum. However, in most cases, these were, so to speak, ready-made fillings, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they were not cut either). The fish for the filling was only plastered, but not chopped. And only much later - at the end of the 18th century. and especially in the 19th century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some fillings began to be crushed on purpose.

The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine begins at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. and lasts a little more than a century - until the first decade of the 19th century. At this time, a radical demarcation of the cuisine of the ruling classes and the cuisine of the common people took place. If in the XVII century. the cuisine of the ruling classes still retained a national character and its difference from the folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in quality, abundance and range of products and dishes, it sharply surpassed the national cuisine, then in the 18th century. the cuisine of the ruling classes gradually began to lose its Russian national character. Since the times of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility and the rest of the nobility have borrowed and introduced Western European culinary traditions. Wealthy nobles who visited Western Europe bring foreign chefs with them. At first they were mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and mostly French. From the middle of the 18th century. foreign chefs were discharged so regularly that they soon almost completely ousted cooks and serfs from the upper nobility.

One of the new customs that appeared at this time is the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses that came from the West and hitherto unknown on the Russian table were combined with old Russian dishes - cold corned beef, jelly, ham, boiled pork, as well as caviar, balyk and other salted red fish in a single serving or even in a special food intake - breakfast. There are also new alcoholic drinks- ratafia and erofeichi. Since the 70s of the 18th century, when tea began to gain more and more importance, in the upper circles of society, sweet pies, pies and sweets stood out outside the dinner, which were combined with tea in a separate serving and timed to 5 o'clock in the evening.
Only in the first half of the 19th century, after the Patriotic War of 1812, in connection with the general rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophil circles with foreign influence, the progressive representatives of the nobility began to revive their interest in the national Russian cuisine. However, when in 1816 the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to compile the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that "information about Russian dishes was almost completely exterminated" and therefore "it is already impossible to present a complete description of the Russian cookery and should be content with only what else can be collected from what is left in the memory, for the history of the Russian cookery has never been devoted to description "(4). As a result, the descriptions of Russian cuisine dishes collected by V. A. Levshin from memory were not only inaccurate in their recipes, but also in their assortment did not reflect the entire real richness of the dishes of the Russian national table.

The cuisine of the ruling classes and throughout the first half of the 19th century. continued to develop in isolation from the folk, under the noticeable influence of French cuisine. But the very nature of this influence has changed significantly. In contrast to the 18th century, when there was a direct borrowing of foreign dishes, such as cutlets, sausages, omelets, mousses, compotes, etc., and the displacement of native Russians, in the first half of the 19th century. a different process emerged - the processing of the Russian culinary heritage, and in the second half of the 19th century. even the restoration of the Russian national menu begins, however, again with French adjustments.

A number of French chefs worked in Russia during this period, radically reforming the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes. The first French chef who left a mark on the reform of Russian cuisine was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few cooks-researchers, cooks-scientists. Before coming to Russia at the invitation of Prince P.I.Bagration, Karem was the cook of the English Prince Regent (future King George IV), Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyrand. He was keenly interested in the cuisines of various nations. During his short stay in Russia, Karem got acquainted in detail with Russian cuisine, appreciated its merits and outlined ways to free it from the superficial. Karem's successors in Russia continued the reform he had begun. This reform affected, firstly, the order of serving dishes to the table. Adopted in the 18th century. The "French" system of serving, when all dishes were put on the table at the same time, was replaced by the old Russian way of serving, when one dish was replaced by another. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and a sequence was introduced in serving lunch, in which heavy dishes alternated with light ones and stimulating the appetite. In addition, meat or poultry cooked as a whole was no longer served on the table; they began to be cut into portions before serving. With such a system, decorating dishes as an end in itself has lost all meaning. The reformers also advocated the replacement of dishes made from crushed and mashed products, which occupied a large place in the cuisine of the ruling classes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, with dishes made from natural products more characteristic of Russian cuisine. This is how all kinds of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural steaks, klops, splints, entrecotes, escalopes appeared. At the same time, the efforts of the culinary specialists were aimed at eliminating the heaviness and indigestibility of some dishes. So, in the recipes for cabbage soup, they discarded the flour puff that made them tasteless, which remained only by virtue of tradition, and not common sense, they began to widely use potatoes in side dishes, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the 18th century. For Russian pies, they suggested using tender sour instead of rye puff pastry from wheat flour. They also introduced unpaired way preparation of dough on pressed yeast, which we use today, thanks to which sour dough, which previously took 10-12 hours to prepare, began to ripen in 2 hours. French chefs also paid attention to snacks, which became one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. prevailed german uniform serving snacks - sandwiches, then in the XIX century. began to serve snacks on a special table, each type on a special dish, beautifully decorating them, and thus expanded their assortment so much, choosing among the snacks a number of old Russian not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable pickled dishes that their abundance and variety from now on did not cease to be a constant subject of surprise to foreigners.

Finally, the French school introduced a combination of products (vinaigrette, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages in recipes that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen technology.

At the end of the XIX century. the Russian stove and the pots and iron pots specially adapted to its thermal regime were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, saucepans, etc. Instead of a sieve and sieve, they began to use colanders, skimmers, meat grinders, etc.

An important contribution of French chefs to the development of Russian cuisine was the fact that they trained a whole galaxy of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanovs, G. Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, 3. Eremeev, N. Khodeev, P. Vikentiev and others who supported and disseminated best traditions Russian cuisine throughout the 19th century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practitioners, but also left behind extensive guidelines on Russian cooking.
In parallel with this process of updating the cuisine of the ruling classes, which was carried out, so to speak, "from above" and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. estates up to the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this collection was folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of anonymous and unknown, but talented serf chefs took part.
By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of the ruling classes, thanks to the unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and delicate taste, began to occupy along with French cuisine one of the leading locations in Europe.
At the same time, it should be emphasized that, despite all the changes, introductions and foreign influences, its main characteristic features have been preserved and have remained inherent in it to the present day, since they have persisted in the national cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: the abundance of dishes, the variety of the snack table, the love of eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom tables, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, an abundance of festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, Easter cakes, etc.

Some of the peculiarities of Russian cuisine should be discussed in more detail. Back at the end of the 18th century. Russian historian I. Boltin noted the characteristic features of the Russian table, including not only the well-to-do one. In the countryside, four pores of food were taken, and in the summer during working hours - five: breakfast, or interception, afternoon tea, before lunch, or exactly at noon, lunch, dinner and pauzhin. These vyti, adopted in Central and Northern Russia, were preserved in Southern Russia, but with different names. There, at 6-7 in the morning they ate, at 11-12 they had dinner, at 14-15 they had noon, at 18-19 they had an evening out, and at 22-23 they had supper. With the development of capitalism, the working people in the cities began to eat at first three, and then only twice a day: they had breakfast at dawn, had lunch or dinner when they came home. At work, however, they only had afternoon tea, that is, they had a snack with cold food. Gradually, any complete meal, a full table with a hot brew, sometimes regardless of the time of day, came to be called lunch.
Bread played an important role at the Russian table. For cabbage soup or other first liquid dish in the village, they usually ate from a pound to a kilogram of black rye bread... White bread, wheat, was actually not widespread in Russia until the beginning of the 20th century. It was eaten occasionally and mainly by the wealthy strata of the population in the cities, and the people looked at it as festive food. Therefore, white bread, called in a number of regions of the country a bun (5), was not baked in bakeries, like black bread, but in special bakeries and was slightly sweetened. Local varieties white bread there were Moscow cakes and rolls, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai bagels, etc. Black bread did not differ in the place of production, but only in the type of baked goods and the type of flour - baked, custard, hearth, peeled, etc.
Since the XX century. came into use and others flour products from white, wheat, flour, previously not characteristic of Russian cuisine - vermicelli, pasta, while the use of pies, pancakes and cereals has decreased. Due to the spread of white bread in everyday life, tea drinking with it sometimes began to replace breakfast and dinner.
The first liquid dishes, called from the end of the 18th century, remained unchanged in Russian cuisine. soups. Soups have always played a dominant role on the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. She appeared with us before the plug for almost 400 years. "With a fork that is a milk yield, and with a spoon that a net," said the proverb.

The assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, paste, chowder, fish soup, pickle soup, hodgepodge, botvinia, okroshka, prison - continued to grow in the 18th-20th centuries. various types of Western European soups such as broths, mashed soups, various filling soups with meat and cereals, which took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for hot liquid brew. In the same way, many soups of the peoples of our country have received a place on the modern Russian table, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beetroot soup and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereals, were obtained from liquefied gruel-lumps (i.e. gruel with vegetable filling) or are the fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, it is not they, despite their variety, but the old, primordially Russian soups like cabbage soup and fish soup that still define the originality of the Russian table.

To a lesser extent than soups, they retained their original meaning on the Russian table fish dishes... Some of the classic Russian fish dishes like tel have fallen out of use. Meanwhile, they are delicious, easy to prepare. They can be prepared from sea fish, which, by the way, was used in Russian cuisine in ancient times, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. The inhabitants of these grain-free areas in those days have long been accustomed to cod, halibut, haddock, capelin, navaga. "The lack of fish is worse than the lack of bread," the Pomor proverb said at the time.

Known in Russian cuisine is steam, boiled, body fish, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, boneless, fried, groomed (filled with porridge or mushrooms filling), stewed, jellied, baked in scales, baked in a skillet in sour cream , salted (salted), dried and dried (sushik). In the Pechora and Perm Territories, fish, in addition, were fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate stroganina - frozen raw fish. Only the method of smoking fish was uncommon, which developed mainly only in the last 70-80 years, that is, from the beginning of the 20th century.

The widespread use of spices in a fairly large assortment was characteristic of the old Russian cuisine. However, the decline in the role of fish mushroom dishes and game dishes, as well as an introduction to the menu of a number of dishes German cuisine affected the reduction in the proportion of spices used in Russian cuisine.
In addition, due to their high cost, many spices, as well as vinegar and salt, date back to the 17th century. people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put it on the table and use it already during a meal, depending on everyone's desire. This custom later gave rise to the assertion that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, they referred to the well-known work of G. Kotoshikhin about Russia in the 17th century, where he wrote: "It's the custom to cook without seasonings, without pepper and inbir, lightly salted and without acetic acid". Meanwhile, further the same G. Kotoshikhin explained: "And how the nets begin and in which there is little vinegar and salt and pepper, and they add food to the food on the table" (6). Since those distant times, the custom has remained to put salt in a salt shaker, pepper in a pepper shaker, mustard and vinegar in separate jars while eating on the table. As a result, the skills of cooking with spices did not develop in the national cuisine, while in the cuisine of the dominant classes, spices continued to be used in the cooking process. But Russian cuisine knew spices and seasonings even at the time of its formation, they were skillfully combined with fish, mushrooms, game, pies, soups, gingerbread, Easter and Easter cakes, and they were used carefully, but nevertheless constantly and without fail. And this circumstance must not be forgotten and overlooked when speaking about the peculiarities of Russian cuisine.

Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some of the technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.

On a large segment of the development of the Russian national cuisine the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking food in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. That which was intended for cooking was boiled from beginning to end, that which was intended for baking was only baked. Thus, the Russian folk cuisine did not know what a combined or even different, combined or double heat treatment was. Heat treatment of food consisted in heating with a warm Russian oven, strong or weak, three degrees - "before the loaves", "after the loaves", "on the free spirit" - but always contactless with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature, when the oven gradually cooled down, but never with an increase in temperature, as in the case of on-top cooking. That is why the dishes always turned out not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a completely special taste. It is not for nothing that many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in different temperature conditions.

Does this mean that it is necessary to restore the Russian stove in order to get real Russian cuisine in modern conditions? Not at all. Instead, it is sufficient to simulate the thermal regime of the falling temperature created by it. Such imitation is possible in modern conditions.

However, one should not forget that the Russian stove had not only a positive, but, to a certain extent, a negative impact on Russian cuisine - it did not stimulate the development of rational technological methods.
The introduction of plate-based cooking led to the need to borrow a number of new technological methods and, along with them, dishes from Western European cuisine, as well as to reform the dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refinement and development, and adaptation to new technology. This direction turned out to be fruitful. It helped to save many dishes of Russian cuisine from oblivion.

Speaking about Russian cuisine, we have so far emphasized its features and characteristics, examined the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, one should bear in mind the pronounced regional differences in it, explained mainly by the diversity of natural zones and the associated dissimilarity of plant and animal products, the different influence of neighboring peoples, as well as the variegated social structure of the population in the past. That is why the cuisine of Muscovites and Pomors, Don Cossacks and Siberians is very different. While in the North they eat venison, fresh and salted sea fish, rye pies, dezhni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, steppe game is fried and stewed on the Don, they eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, they drink grape wine and cook pies with chicken. If the food of the Pomors resembles the Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Lappish (Sami), then the cuisine of the Don Cossacks was significantly influenced by the Turkish and Nogai cuisines, and the Russian population in the Urals or Siberia follows the Tatar and Udmurt culinary traditions.

Regional features of a different plan have long been inherent in the cuisines of the old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are due to the medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. Moreover, they manifested themselves in the field of cuisine not in major dissimilarities, such as differences in the technology of preparation or in the availability of their own dishes in each area, as was the case, for example, in Siberia and the Urals, but in the differences between the same dishes, in the differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless quite persistent. A striking example of this is at least such common Russian dishes as fish soup, pancakes, pies, porridge and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but each region had its own favorite types of these dishes, their own minor differences in their recipes, their own appearance, their own methods of serving to the table, etc.
We owe this, so to speak, "small regionality" to the emergence, development and existence so far, for example, different types gingerbread - Tula, Vyazma, Voronezh, Gorodets, Moscow, etc.
Regional differences, both large and small, naturally enriched and diversified Russian cuisine even more. And at the same time, all of them did not change its basic character, because in each specific case, the above-mentioned general features attract attention, which together distinguish the national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean.

RICH SHIPS (FULL) (Pokhlebkin)

750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 root and celery, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).

1. Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and cook for 2 hours. 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
2. Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over it, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, take it out and combine with strained broth and beef.
3. Put the mushrooms and the potato cut into 4 parts in an enamel saucepan, pour 2 glasses of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and put them back in the mushroom broth to cook. After mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with meat broth.
4. To the combined broths and cabbage, add the finely chopped onion and all the other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream right on the plates.

3. GRAVE SPIRIT

What is the symbol of the Russian feast? Vodka? Gefilte fish? Fight? Of course not. There is only one dish, without which Russian cuisine is inconceivable, like an émigré newspaper without the Kremlin elders. This is cabbage soup. Our culture and history are concentrated in them. It is not for nothing that cabbage soup is respectfully called not by "you", but by "them", in the plural.

During the first thousand years of Russian history, cabbage soup was the main and often the only dish on the Russian peasant table. Then the cabbage soup and the peasants fell into decay. Gradually, this food slipped to the level of a beggar stew, and as such, it pretty much compromised Russian cuisine. If the house smells of cabbage soup, it means that uncultured, backward people live here. And once a grave spirit meant the Russian version of homeliness and comfort. “Here is the Russian spirit! It smells of cabbage soup here! ”- this is how the great poet wrote.

Of course, to enjoy cabbage soup, you don't have to wear a blouse and bast shoes. It is enough to cook these cabbage soup correctly. Which is not easy, but exciting.

Put marrow bones and a good piece of beef in a saucepan (by no means pork - this will be outside Ukrainian influence, which equally disgusts us as Russians and as Jews). Cover with water and cook until half cooked. Put squeezed sauerkraut in a pot, pour boiling water over and season with two tablespoons of butter. Place the closed pot in the oven on low heat and keep there until the cabbage is tender. This will give the cabbage a stewed taste, which otherwise can only be achieved in a Russian oven. Since even the president does not have a Russian stove in America, an operation with cabbage is inevitable. Cook two to three dry mushrooms separately along with the sliced ​​potatoes.

Now you need to combine all the ingredients (cabbage, mushrooms and potatoes together with the water in which they were cooked) and put finely chopped onions, carrots, turnips, parsley root and greens, celery root and greens, a few black peppercorns (crushed) in the cabbage soup, two or three bay leaves, a teaspoon of marjoram, salt and let simmer for about 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with garlic and dill and put the pan in a heated oven for half an hour.

Before serving, it is good to put coarsely chopped salted mushrooms in the cabbage soup (we can't imagine where you will get them) and be sure to add whitening made from a mixture of sour cream with cream to the plate. Aesthetes can add finely chopped ham to the cabbage soup along with the roots, but this is from the evil one.

There must be cabbage soup with a huge amount of fresh black bread, cut into slices as thick as an arm. No second is cooked that day. May God cope with such a first. The big problem is the consistency of the cabbage soup. They must be very thick for the spoon to stand. But this recommendation, like others like it - "salt to taste, cook until tender" - does little to help the cook. On the other hand, a reasonable person must have an innate intuition and a sense of proportion. And there is no need for another to cook cabbage soup. He will manage in cooking - a hamburger, in art - a TV, in sports - a thrown fool.

Cabbage soup in their most complete version consists of six main components - cabbage (or the leading vegetable mass replacing it), meat (or, in very rare cases, fish, mushrooms - dried and salted), roots (carrots, parsley root), spicy dressing
(onion, celery, garlic, dill, pepper, bay leaf) and sour dressing (sour cream, apples, cabbage brine). Of these six components, the first and last, that is, the vegetable lead mass and the sour flavor, are indispensable and absolutely indispensable. The simplest cabbage soup can only consist of them, continuing to remain cabbage soup.

As for the leading vegetable mass in cabbage, most often it is cabbage - fresh or sauerkraut. But this does not mean that cabbage soup is a soup with cabbage. A sign of cabbage is acid, most often created by sauerkraut brine (either in cabbage or in pure form) or, instead, sorrel (green cabbage soup), boiled green, wild or Antonov apples, salted mushrooms, and sour cream (in cabbage soup) from fresh cabbage). That is why cabbage can be replaced in cabbage soup with various green, sour or neutral masses (sorrel, dampness, nettles, hogweed - in the so-called green borsch soup), as well as with a neutral vegetable mass that absorbs acid well (turnip or radish - in the so-called burdock cabbage soup) ).

The cooking technology for all types of cabbage soup is the same. First, meat or mushrooms are boiled separately with roots and onions. Then cabbage or cabbage substitutes and acid are added to the finished broth. If sauerkraut is used for cabbage soup, then it is cooked separately from the meat broth and combined with it after it is ready. In both cases, salt and spicy dressing are added only after boiling the vegetable mass to the required softness. Ready-made cabbage soup is seasoned with sour cream, most often during their serving.

Initially, flour dressing (together with cabbage) was also introduced into the cabbage soup to make the soup broth denser. This was usually the case in the western and southern regions of Russia.

However, such a dressing impairs the taste of the cabbage soup, coarsens their aroma. Therefore, with the advent of potatoes, in order to starch the broth, one or two potatoes were added to the cabbage soup - as a whole, before laying the cabbage and the sour base. Moreover, often the potatoes are then removed from the cabbage soup, since it hardens from the acid. The addition of a small amount of cereals, usually buckwheat (1 tablespoon for the whole pot), which is completely boiled down, also contributes to the consolidation of the consistency of the broth in lean and green cabbage soup.

The simpler the vegetable composition, the leaner they are, the more skill is required to prepare them. Real cabbage soup is inconceivable without a spicy dressing, which plays a significant role in the creation of the "happy spirit". First of all, the introduction of onions into cabbage soup is of great importance. The best way is to double-lay it: the first time - a whole onion along with meat, roots and mushrooms (then this onion is removed) and the second time - finely chopped onions (chopped) along with cabbage. At the same time, you should never add onion fried separately in butter to the cabbage soup - in this form it is not characteristic of real cabbage soup.

In the same way, twice add to the cabbage soup and another spicy seasoning - parsley and celery: the first time - with the root, which is then taken out with the onion, the second time - at the end of cooking, in the form of greens. The rest of the spices - bay leaf, black pepper with crushed peas, dill and garlic are introduced as follows: the first two types - 15 minutes before cooking, the second two - along with parsley at the end of cooking. After that, the cabbage soup must be sure to stand under the lid, and let it brew for at least 10 15 minutes. It is at this time that cabbage soup "reaches its real taste": cabbage becomes soft, acidity and aroma of spices are transferred to vegetables. Therefore, before the cabbage soup was left to grind and languish after cooking in the light spirit of the Russian stove, where they did not cool down, or they put it on the edge of the stove, where the heat was retained, but the boiling stopped. Soup from sauerkraut especially need this. It is good to put them in a slightly heated oven for 10-15 minutes, or even more. Sometimes cabbage soup can last for several hours (from 12 to 24), which gives them a better and more peculiar taste. Such cabbage soup is called daily soup, they are prepared ahead of time, in a day.

Finally, you should pay attention to two more circumstances that affect the quality of cabbage soup - the choice of meat and whitening or whitening.

For cabbage soup there is beef, mostly fat - brisket, thin and thick edge, rump. To create a special smell, you can add a small amount of ham to the beef - tenth to eighth (and even a third in the south of Russia) of the weight of beef. In this case, beef in cabbage soup is always boiled in a whole piece, and the ham is chopped. All meat components are subjected to grinding only in prefabricated cabbage soup. Pork cabbage soup, found mainly in the regions bordering with Ukraine, is not typical of Russian cuisine. The same can be said about cabbage soup found in certain regions of Russia with fish instead of meat. For such cabbage soup, a special selection of fish (salted red - beluga and sturgeon, in combination with river fish - perch, crucian carp and tench) and their separate heat treatment were certainly required. Another method of cooking cabbage soup with fish, and with its other varieties, gives a not so tasty dish, which is therefore not widely used.

As for whitewash, good cabbage soup cannot do without it. The role of whitening is usually performed by sour cream, which is also an acidifier. Sometimes sour cream is replaced with yogurt or just milk. In rich sauerkraut cabbage soup, a mixture of sour cream and cream in a 4: 1 ratio serves as whitening. This is a very tasty whitewash.

A few words about the consistency of cabbage soup. Cabbage soup of all types can be thick or liquid, depending on the ratio of water and the mass of the nested products. Once upon a time, thick cabbage soup was considered ideal, in which "a spoon is standing", or "cabbage soup with a slide," that is, when a piece of meat rises above the surface of the liquid and thick poured into the plate. Our recipes are designed for cabbage soup of more than medium thickness; this means that the amount of liquid per 1 serving should not exceed 350 g. Therefore, cold water should be poured no more than 2 liters for 4 servings, and preferably 1.5 liters, so that the finished broth is 1.25 1 liter (after boiling). It should be cooked for 2 hours. Spices are added to the cabbage soup 5-10 minutes until cooked.

Cabbage soup is usually eaten with black, rye bread.

Rich (full) cabbage soup recipe

Ingredients for cabbage soup:

Cooking cabbage soup:

1. Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and cook for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, season with salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
2. Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over it, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, take it out and combine with strained broth and beef.
3. Put the mushrooms and the potato cut into 4 parts in an enamel saucepan, pour 2 glasses of cold water and put on the fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and put them back in the mushroom broth to cook. After mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with meat broth.
4. To the combined broths and cabbage, add the finely chopped onion and all the other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapping it with something warm.

Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream right on the plates.

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Rich cabbage soup (full): recipe

Ingredients:

750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 root and celery greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawns).

Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and cook for 2 hours. 1–1.5 hours after the start of cooking, season with salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.

Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, take it out and combine with strained broth and beef.

Put the mushrooms and the potato cut into four parts in an enamel saucepan, pour 2 glasses of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and put them in the mushroom broth to cook. After mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with meat broth.

Add finely chopped onion to the combined broths and cabbage, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream right on the plates.

Jelly: recipe

Ingredients:

1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 head of garlic , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.

Singe the legs and head, clean, chop into equal pieces, add water and cook for 6 to 8 hours over very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is halved. Add onions, carrots, parsley 1–1.5 hours before the end of cooking, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then remove the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half hour or hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour the boiled prepared meat with it. Chill for 3-4 hours.

Gelatin is not used because young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.

Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.

Roast: recipe

Ingredients:

2–2.5 kg of plump beef (thick rim), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6–8 grains of black pepper, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.

Wash the beef, clean it from films, bones, cut off fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it in a preheated pan or baking sheet, melt, heat, fry the beef in it in a whole piece, so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning over all the time. Fry for about 1-1.5 hours. For 5-7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a sauce for a roast. Remove the finished beef from the oven, add salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut it across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.

Roast is not served cold and is not reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrot, turnips, rutabagas, fried or stewed mushrooms.

Pike in sour cream: recipe

Ingredients:

1-1.5 kg of pike, 1-2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.

Fish with a specific smell (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.

Peel the pike, rub it with pepper on the outside and inside, pour it over with oil and put the whole in a deep frying pan on a ceramic support (you can use a saucer) and put it open in the oven for 7-10 minutes to brown the fish. Then transfer to a narrower dish, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45-60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately with the fish in a gravy boat or pour it over the fish.

Fried mushrooms: recipe

Ingredients:

4 glasses of peeled mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cups sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.

Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils out almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, stir and continue to fry over a moderate heat until a brownish color is formed for about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.

During the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.

Oatmeal porridge: recipe

Ingredients:

2 glasses oatmeal"Hercules", 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.

Pour the groats with water and cook over low heat until the water boils down and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, while stirring, cook until thickened, seasoning with salt. Ready porridge fill with oil.

Cabbage pie: recipe

Yeast puff pastry

Ingredients:

600 g flour, 1.25-1.5 cups of milk (1.25 for sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25-30 g yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.

In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: for nut, poppy - cardamom, for apple - cinnamon, for cherry - star anise, for currant, strawberry - zest).

Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the matched dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of oil, fold in four, then put it on for 10 minutes. into the cold. Then roll out again and grease with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without touching, cut the dough into a pie.

Cabbage filling

You can make the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.

Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard eggs and use immediately for filling.

Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add the onion, parsley and black pepper, mix with the hard chopped eggs.

Buckwheat and wheat pancakes: recipe

Ingredients:

3.5 cups buckwheat flour, 1.5 cups wheat flour, 2.5 cups warm water, 2 cups of boiling milk, 25 g of yeast, 25 g of butter, 2 eggs, 1 tsp. sugar, 1 tsp. salt, 0.5 cups melted butter.

Dissolve yeast in water, add all wheat flour and an equal volume of buckwheat, let it come up. Pour in the rest buckwheat flour, let it come up again. Boil the dough with hot milk, cool, add sugar, salt, butter, let stand and then bake.

Ingredients:

400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or yogurt, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 clove buds, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp. soda.

Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until it is red hot, skimming off the foam, then boil with a part of it rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool until slightly warm and beat until white.

Wipe off the burnt milk with the yolks, add milk and knead the wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, pre-mixing it and mixing with powdered spices.

Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, beating them thoroughly. Ready dough place in a greased dish (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1–2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.

These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.

Cooking caramel sugar. Make thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then slightly reduce the heat and continue stirring until it acquires a beige or light brown hue. In this case, the sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and heat regulation. The resulting light brown lollipop is used for coloring and giving a "caramel" aroma to products.