Mos Trubetskaya restaurant. What is eaten in northern European countries

Situated Mos far from the famous restaurant "nests" and the streets of Moscow - a quiet street near the Frunzenskaya metro station (this station will be closed for renovations throughout 2016) and is focused on the elite area in which it is located. Paid parking nearby.

The restaurant is immediately noticeable from the street, so huge windows and an open kitchen located opposite them where chefs scurry about attract the attention of passers-by

Yes, the kitchen is open and Elena Flying would not have to make a scandal to get into it - it is open to everyone, and the most curious can take their places right on the counter that limits the kitchen and watch the magic)

Open kitchen looks like this (the photo is closer, unfortunately, not):

Kitchen workers in multi-colored knitted hats instead of white caps (northern flavor))))

We arrived at 17-30, at the entrance we were warned that the restaurant opens at 18-00 and that they would not be able to pay attention to us until that time, since every day the chef conducts mandatory instructions to the staff about new dishes, what is on the menu and what is not , as well as various other household stuff :) and all the staff are always present.

But, we did not get bored during this half hour, but studied an interesting menu of dishes and cocktails (which is very extensive and contains many interesting names and combinations), as well as a beer menu

We chose the dishes, the waitress advised us in detail, answered all questions and was very nice and competent.

What is especially worth noting before the start of the meal - uh then homemade bread... IT is gorgeous and unlimited (free) - as soon as the basket ran out, we were promptly brought a new one

they also brought a compliment before the main meal - a small cup of potato salad:

Further snacks:

We took them "on the table" because everyone wanted to try a little bit of everything :)

Accompanied with cocktails and beer:

Further main dishes:

Lamb in bread is great!

In the past few years national cuisines and cooking healthy tasty food a lot of attention began to be paid. More and more culinary shows appear on television, on the Internet. Cooking not only delicious, but healthy and aesthetically attractive dishes has become very fashionable in the 21st century. Nordic cuisine is becoming more and more popular in Moscow.

What do they eat in northern European countries?

Scandinavian cuisine includes the culinary traditions of several northern countries (Denmark, Finland, Estonia, Sweden, Norway, Iceland and others). Different ingredients are used in the diet of the countries of the North: all kinds of fish, game, roots, berries, nuts, herbs. Whole-grain baked goods are very popular, they taste good and are healthy.

Scientists have found that omega-3 fatty acids, which are so popular today, are found in large quantities not only in some seafood, but also in berries. Both are actively used for cooking in the Scandinavian countries.

Now you can taste delicious food in Moscow. For example, in the gastropub MOS. The restaurant opened on Trubetskaya Street on the last day of July 2015.

MOS - restaurant, Trubetskaya 10

The restaurant is two-level, it is ready to receive 80 guests at a time. comfortable. The tables are located very close to each other, so for people who prefer privacy, it may not be very comfortable here.

The heart of the 1st level is the kitchen, it is open to the eyes of visitors. Everyone can see the excellent technical equipment of this place. And watching the process of preparing ordered dishes is sometimes better than any television show.

The kitchen space is separated from the hall by a high bar. Behind it can accommodate 8 persons for tasting signature dishes from the chef of the establishment. This zone is called Chef "s Table.

Those going up to the 2nd floor are greeted by a huge black owl depicted on the wall. He seemed to have flown in from the north to eat something tasty. This level also has an open kitchen, but behind glass.

The dishes in which the food is served are simply unique - as if they were made of marble or granite. She is simple, beautiful and looks very expensive. It is pleasant to eat from such plates for any person. The color scheme matches the Nordic style: gray with black splashes and boiling white.

Why MOS?

The name of the restaurant was given by its chef and co-owner - Estonian Korobiak Andrey. "Mes" (if translated for certain) means "grandmother's blessing, kiss" in Danish. Together with the experienced restaurateur Zaturinsky Alexander, he wanted to create a special place, getting into which a person would seem to find himself in one of

The interior design is designed in the "Scandinavian Art Nouveau" style (late 30s of the 20th century) with elements of constructivism. The interior is decorated in cool colors - blue, gray, light blue, pale pink, combined with black and brown, create a calm and peaceful atmosphere.

Alexander Zaturinsky decided to open this restaurant with Scandinavian motives away from the already well-known catering clusters, on Trubetskaya Street, near the Frunzenskaya metro station. The establishment he turned out to be "fashionable" that meets all the criteria necessary to ensure that MOS could be called some kind of "gastro" (either a "gastro" pub, or a "gastro" boutique, or a "gastro" cafe). A small hall, an open kitchen, where chef Andrey Korobiak is in charge, a modern, eye-catching design, a non-standard menu, the audience is in trend, and brisk service, or rather, brisk service only when the hall is empty. When all tables are occupied, and in MOS in the evenings, the tables are all busy (at first, the restaurant generally only worked in the evening mode), the waiters do their tasks poorly, and so much so that managers, sommeliers, and hostesses are involved in the work. And still, there are not enough hands for all the guests. Dishes arrive with great delays, out of order, water and other drinks have to wait for ten to fifteen minutes.

The next drawback is the hood. Judging by the persistent aromas of garlic and spices that fill the entire room and settle on clothes, it does not work, which does not add comfort in any way, and despite the fact that comfort in MOS and so little. The tables are small, they stand close to each other, and willy-nilly you become a participant in all extraneous conversations. For example, now I know for sure why Lera didn’t want to go to Thailand with Stasik, and why Vasily held money for a gift to Alexander Petrovich, and I am also aware that although Alina’s photos were included in the “shortlist”, there are no awards received because there was not enough money for the jury. On the one hand, the stories are entertaining, and as a writer, they may come in handy for me someday, but listening to them gets bored, and I can't get away from the flow of other people's information, just as I can't eat well, because the food is in MOS unusually common.

As in many other new Moscow gastronomic establishments in MOS everything is beautiful on paper. Combinations, combinations, variations and contrasts sound interesting, but in fact, all dishes turn out to be simple and banal in their flavor settings. Somewhere overcooked, somewhere not cooked, somewhere dry, somewhere bland, somewhere bitter or simply tasteless. So, for example, lightly salted cucumbers with seaweed and the peanuts were not salty, not crunchy, but bitter and did not cause any delight in me. Grilled romaine with horseradish and yogurt turned out to be just a large salad stub, fried in a pan, with a drop of sauce and an unpleasant pungent aftertaste. Warm salad from young potatoes was a bowl of boiled potatoes without any frills. And the Scandinavian "smurrebred" sandwich with salmon appeared before me in the form of a scanty piece of black bread with a slice of salmon. The smelt with cucumber salsa turned out to be sad and tasteless. Firstly, it looked pathetic, and secondly, the cucumber slices and greenish sauce completely hammered the taste of small strips of fish. The open sandwich with roast beef was more or less decent, but I can't give him more than three.

The bottom line is:

Instead of an interesting and new one, Messrs. Zaturinsky and Korobiak proposed another indistinct gastronomic project, inspired solely by a tribute to fashion, and not by love for food. If you live or work on Frunzenskaya, you can go in, but go to MOS it's not worth it especially for the sake of food, just waste your time, and it's not summer now, the season of traffic jams and rains is approaching.

This selection contains the 25 best restaurants in Moscow in my opinion. For your convenience, I have divided all the establishments into parts: read about Scandinavian, Italian, Asian, Georgian restaurants, as well as places to go on a date and where you should take guests of the city.

Scandinavian style

Scandinavian or northern cuisine is in trend both in Moscow and all over the world. Thanks to Rene Redzepi and the Russian government for their interest in what grows and lives nearby. The boom of northern restaurants in the capital has slowly subsided, but I still recommend you 2 places, time-tested and me.

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Perhaps this is the restaurant I visit most often - on those weekends that I spend in Moscow, I traditionally come here for Sunday brunch. I like the restaurant's approach to Scandinavian cuisine (correct, not orthodox, allowing always appropriate international variations), the stylish Scandinavian interior, the location opposite the beautiful park of the Trubetskoy estate in Khamovniki, huge windows that open wide in summer and allow you to admire this park, I like the fact that the brunch menu (and lunch on weekdays) changes regularly. If you find yourself here at a time when lunch has already ended and dinner has not yet begun (between 4 and 6 pm), indulge yourself in the pleasure of ordering coffee and a fantastic bun with salted caramel and try to limit yourself to one. On Monday evening at MOS - oyster time (half a dozen New Zealand oysters and a glass of prosecco for 1,500 rubles), on Wednesdays there are often wine or beer tastings (the restaurant has excellent beer, including Estonian), and in general there is always something here - then it happens. Very stylish, very tasty and 100% my place with the most the best bread in Moscow.

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First of all, those who love bearded men should come to Bjorn. I'm not kidding now! A team of like-minded people who are so passionate about their work has gathered in the restaurant that the waiters already make tattoos with the name of the place without any coercion. From the point of view of the public and the interior, Bjorn is simpler than MOS, it is more of a bistro than a restaurant, with a slightly more pretentious cuisine in terms of serving (if you like moss, twigs, stones in a plate - you should go here) and more ascetic-northern in spirit. ... One of the few places on Pyatnitskaya and in the vicinity that can be recommended, otherwise the streets have been updated, it is pleasant to walk along them, but there is really nowhere to go.

Smart

In this collection, I have collected restaurants where you can and should dress up, for example, for a date. There are times when you not only want to eat deliciously, but also show yourself and see others.

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One of the best Italian restaurants in the city, Buono is located on the 29th floor of the Ukraine Hotel and, accordingly, offers a panoramic view of the city, so I advise you to ask for a table with a view when booking. The kitchen is headed by Christian Lorenzini, well-known to readers of the blog (we once talked about how and how), who, over the years of his life and work in Moscow, managed to find exactly that version of Italian cuisine that is loved by those who spend their summer vacations where- anything in Forte dei Marmi (expect to see foie gras, truffles, snails and Tiger chrimp). Here are absolutely delicious ravioli with spinach and ricotta in a sauce of butter and sage.

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Finally, on the Patriarchs, who have spawned, and I hope, are killing the fashion for restaurants where everyone sits on each other's heads, a place has opened up where the distance between the tables looks like normal, and the waiters do not beckon to each other, which has become traditional Kitty Kitty Kitty... On the first floor of the Maritozzo, there is a lively cafe (or a bar in the Italian sense of the word), on the second, the very restaurant that I recommend to you and the wine bar. Wine is handled here, in particular, by Sergei Golubev (you remember him from several of my wine events in the old Grand Cru and this one), in the kitchen there is a team of Italian chefs. In the winter menu (now, of course, the spring-summer one is in effect) there were phenomenal cappelletti al brodo, small dumplings with a strong broth, which was additionally poured from a small decanter of Chianti (as Federico Fellini loved). Perhaps the only reason to miss winter. High quality Italian food representing the traditions of the center of the country.

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One of the finest restaurants I know, Brasserie Most boasts huge windows overlooking Kuznetsky Most, meticulously stucco and painted, sparkling crystal and starched tablecloths. This is probably the best restaurant where you can go for a glass of champagne before a performance at the Bolshoi Theater or for dinner afterwards. The cuisine is French, which in Moscow is an extremely rare genre, and without an emphasis on any one region, but representing little by little all the good things that France has. My favorite dish- salad "Nicoise" with fresh tuna and a rich sauce, as well as a tart dessert menu... In the mornings, employees and heroes of the magazines of the publishing house Conde Nast gather here for breakfast.

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"Restaurant of author's hunting cuisine" - it only sounds scary, but in fact no one knows how to cook game the way Vitaly Tikhonov does. Raise your hands, who cooked? Vitaly has worked in Europe for a long time, he knows how it is now customary to handle food and how food should look on a plate, and therefore there are no rolls, sausages and other frightening dishes from hunting restaurants here. The owners have their own land in the Vologda Oblast. The menu includes stroganina and muksun, pheasant satsivi, moose borscht, ravioli with hare, venison tartare ... If the game scares you, then you can always eat something more familiar - chicken, asparagus or salad with duck liver... The restaurant is large with high ceilings and chalet-style design Ralph Lauren in Aspen(perfect for banquets!), the veranda is open in summer, guests have access to the cigar lounge all year round (with a separate tapas menu, by the way). And, which is very important in Moscow, GGraf has its own parking lot.

Tourist

Here are the restaurants to which you will take guests of the city, first of all, because it is delicious here, and because here Russian spirit and Russia smells.

For many of my friends, the main breakfast in Moscow is breakfast with a view of the Kremlin at the Grand Cafe Dr. Zhivago. The restaurant is open around the clock, they serve not only breakfast here, but it was omelet with crab, Guryev porridge, lacy pancakes, perfect cheese cakes, hot sandwiches and tea in glasses with glass holders that won my (and not only my) heart. Separate mention, as in all projects of the restaurateur Alexander Rappoport, deserves an interior, which contains everything Russian-Soviet from mosaics in the spirit of Deineka, pioneers, Palekh painting, crystal waxes and invariable red carnations. The restaurant has a strange policy regarding plastic cards, so you better take cash.

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With the arrival of warmth, the Strelka bar terrace overlooking the Moscow River and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior is becoming one of my favorite places in Moscow. It is especially wonderful here in the evening, when the sun is going down, reflected in a glass with an aperol, and around you is the same creative class, by which you cannot immediately tell which home port it has - whether it be Moscow or Hamburg. I can say little about food - it so happened that I almost never eat in Strelke, but science is not aware of cases when people leave here hungry.

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Vladimir Mukhin, like Pushkin (b), is our gastronomic everything. A Russian who burst into the list of the best establishments in the world according to San Pellegrino with his restaurant (despite the ongoing talk of a conspiracy of water producers with increased profitability), a Russian to whom Netflix dedicated a series in its Chef's table project (watched? I advise!), A Russian, which made the entire progressive (ok, gastronomic-progressive) world believe that Russia has products and cooks worthy of world attention ... In short, White Rabbit takes 23rd place in the ranking of 50 best restaurants world and is located under the roof of an ugly skyscraper in Smolensk. A view of traffic jams on Sadovoe, hostesses in the spirit of "goods by face", soft sofas - this is a little popular Moscow from the 2000s. The kitchen, however, is well worth the plush and cleavage - the tasting set includes everything from sea ​​urchin before Ivan-tea, the menu mainly includes celery porridge with Magadan shrimps, pike perch with nettles, and a kid with a goat. Mukhin was one of the first, even before the sanctions, to draw attention to Russian products(the menu specifically specifies the origin of the ingredients), thus finding their way and paving the way for the rest.

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A restaurant in the spirit of “what you please” with a phenomenally rich and impeccably made interior, waiters so polite that they seem to have arrived from another planet, and Russian cuisine in its premium and high-budget version, Pushkin has remained a gastronomic institution in Moscow for almost 20 years. The permanent chef of "Pushkin" Andrey Makhov has spent more than one year on the recreation of old Russian recipes, including those of the Pushkin era. In "Pushkin" there are excellent breakfasts (they are held on the first floor in the "Pharmacy" hall), on the second floor they serve Kamchatka crab, fire cutlet, herring, lampreys, scallops, which, of course, are called here. sea ​​crests... In general, the place over and over again delights foreigners.

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Bosco Cafe is the only chance to have coffee on Red Square, and you should use it! The grand cafe and restaurant with a noticeable Italian bias has been operating in GUM for 16 years and I like its versatility. If you want, you can run for a cup of coffee and a delicious sand tartlet with berries, if you want, you can go for an aperitif, if you want, come to a full dinner or lunch and choose the main ones italian dishes from the menu. At the end of last year, Bosco Cafe was renovated, opening a hall on the second floor and ordering a luxurious Venetian chandelier and unique Florentine plates. Tasty, high quality, stable. In summer, a terrace with a view of the Mausoleum is open.

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Wint Religion, a winery and gastro bar that set the fashion for a hipster approach to wine, operates far from the center, on Michurinsky Avenue. The concept is "a neighbor's restaurant", i.e. almost like the Patriarch's, only without multimillion-dollar foreign cars parked on the sidewalk and colossal investments in the interior. The wine list contains 400 items, of which 25 change every 3 months and are served by the glass, the menu includes modern Moscow cuisine of the young chef Timur Abuzyarov. Last year Wine Religion suddenly received Best of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine.

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One of my favorite restaurants for years last fall slightly changed the format, opening a second hall and making the atmosphere more in line with the fashionable establishments on Patriarch's. They say that the glory of Wine Religion (adjusted for the place, of course) kept the owner of the establishment and one of the main Russian wine importers Maxim Kashirin awake. They also say that many of the guests left the restaurant, as did some of the staff. However, the main thing remains - Adrian Catglas, who received a Michelin star for his restaurant in Mallorca, is still the brand chef, and the wine selection is still vast and classic. At Grand Cru by Adrian Quetglas, dinners are regularly held with representatives of the world's most famous wineries, Adrian himself personally presents new sets several times a year and, in my opinion, it is precisely these events that you should come here.

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Once upon a time my husband and I had a favorite restaurant for special occasions - Les Menus par Pierre Garnier, where we regularly went on our own anniversaries and tours of the great chef Pierre Gagnier. And we also went to Les Menus to see a sommelier, Sergei Poltoratsky. The restaurant closed, and after a while Sergey appeared in the Winil project, where we are now happy and regularly come for dinners and tastings. I like everything about Winil - the location in the nearby Khamovniki, the calm timeless interior, the jazz sounding from the speakers, and the non-trivial choice of wine. There is always something to learn here, it is always interesting here and, by the way, the octopus here is the best in Moscow.

Asian

The project Zuma, which I adore, has not yet reached Moscow, but is this a reason to be sad! There are places where you can eat excellent rolls and sashimi, try good meat from the grill in the city. In my selection - the best of them.

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Nobu is a New York-born restaurant by chef Nobu Matsuhisu and actor Robert De Niro. Nobu is said to have created anew Japanese cuisine and made her fashionable. The difference between Nobu and many others Japanese restaurants- in the use of ingredients from South America. One of my favorites is crab with spicy sauce and tataki tuna with tosazu sauce. In Moscow, by the way, there are two Nobu - I go to the one on Bolshaya Dmitrovka.

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One of the oldest establishments in Moscow and the pearl of the restaurant collection of Arkady Novikov, Nedalny Vostok has been operating since 2007 on Tverskoy Boulevard. The main thing on the menu is Kamchatka crab, which is cooked here in all possible ways, even wrapped in rolls, even fried in a wok. My favorite option is steamed. Expensive, rich, in Moscow style - Afisha was right, calling it “Near East” meeting point with officials.

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Fumisawa Sushi is another Novikov restaurant (we have the main one in the East in the city, yes), working around the corner from the Chanel boutique on Petrovka, a tiny place with an amazing selection of fresh fish and fantastic sashimi sets from Chef Jun Kondo. One of the main features of the restaurant is the so-called. contact sushi bar, a dinner-ceremony, during which, before your eyes, 12 types of sushi will be created and then tasted by you, accompanied by premium sake.

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This is also Arkady Novikov, but this time the restaurant is Pan-Asian. Located directly opposite the central entrance to the Central Department Store, the kitchen is headed by the Australian Jonathan Curtis, who started in Moscow from the "Near East". In Mr Lee, you gotta go for Peking duck, crab dim sum and pie with green tea matcha and fresh strawberries.

Italian

I have already said about some Italian restaurants, such as Buono and Maritozzo, so in this part the establishments are simpler, but no less tasty.

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Valentino Bontempi, to my great regret, closed his main restaurant with an excellent terrace on Red October, which was one of my favorite establishments in Moscow, and focused on working on pincers. The meaning of this pizza-shaped dish is that the dough consists of a mixture of wheat, soy and rice, includes a large amount of water, is aged for 72 hours before baking, and therefore turns out to be much more airy and healthy. Whether pizza or pintsa is still the best in town. In addition to her, the menu includes salads, soups, hot dishes, cooked with the traditional Bontempi craftsmanship that has won the love of Muscovites. Vegan items are highlighted in the menu. The restaurant is located in the lanes behind the Pushkin Museum. Pushkin.

Arbat Street opened loudly in December 2014 and quietly closed this summer. First, Chef Daniel Fippard left there, after which he generally returned to his native England - this, of course, was facilitated by the difficult situation with salaries in euros. Then they started playing different music in the bar, thus destroying the harmonious concept of the establishment. The next to leave the place was the bar manager Irina Golubeva (now in the bar).

So, MØS is another attempt to enter a new territory for a restaurateur, this time of a higher quality. And if his boss - a young and very talented Andrey Korobiak - does not leave for his native Estonia or somewhere else, it seems, it will be a success. Because the food in MØS is delicious and interesting, the interior is beautiful and impressive with the elaboration of details, and the prices for everything (perhaps for now) are democratic, almost like in Delicatessen.

The restaurant is two-storied, on each floor there is an open kitchen: above is a cold shop behind glass, below is a hot one, framed by a high chef's table for eight people. On the first floor there is a tiny bar, which is managed, however, from a distance, by Andreas Tsanos, known to Muscovites for his work in and, before that, worked in London bars Hakkasan, Sketch, Hix and Purl. Chef-sommelier - Ilya Gostiayev, co-owner of a wine bar, he also chooses beer for the restaurant. The interior uses a lot of recycled materials, and the furniture and lamps are replicas of furniture sketches from the 70s. Interior author - Ekaterina Waltz from Büroe.

Now MØS works on weekdays only in the evenings - from 18:00 to 23:30, on weekends - in the afternoon from 12:00 to 16:00 and in the evening from 18:00 to 23:00. On September 1, the schedule should change, the restaurant will start opening every day at 12:00 and will be open until 23:30. Until four o'clock, the daily menu will operate, from four to six - only beer and snacks, from six to closing - the evening menu. At the chef's table, Korobiak promises to eventually start preparing a set menu from dishes that are not included in the usual menu. Presumably, the dishes are more complicated and even more interesting. There will also be tastings of sets of Scandinavian chefs who will start arriving in the fall.

The real evening menu has six great mini-snacks at prices ranging from 150 to 290 rubles, and you should start with them by ordering wine or beer. The most must-haves are these three: Danish Smoked Cheese Donut, Tomato Water, and Cereal Chips with Seeds and Homemade Truffle Mayonnaise. Then grilled romano with sour milk sauce - a balanced taste, the taste not of herbs, but of real food. This is how it should be vegetarian meals so that inveterate meat eaters do not scare them. Warm smurrebred with crackling, green tomatoes and vegetable remoulade is in the section small meals, but in fact the size of the dish is quite basic. By the way, it's a traditional northern thing. A green sorrel orzotto is another option for a light dinner, but a beef sandwich is what a very hungry person needs. For dessert, the menu includes ice cream made from dark beer, which I did not find, but I tried Kama - an interesting and delicate traditional Estonian dessert made from oatmeal. Everything is served exclusively on expensive Scandinavian dishes: Würtz, Höganäs Keramik and Eva Solo.

The meaning of Scandinavian cuisine is in total locality, its transfer to other territories, firstly, is difficult to implement, and secondly, it is not clear why it is needed. But MØS is, rather, the author's cuisine of Andrey Korobiak, who is closest of all to the cuisine of Northern Europe. Andrey was born in Estonia, has worked in Tallinn, Helsinki, Copenhagen and New York, including with chef Rasmus Kofoed in his Danish Geranium (two Michelin stars). That is why he feels at MØS naturally, there are no exaggerations in history. For a northern cuisine restaurant in Moscow best chef can not found. Like Korobiak, he cannot find a more organic place in the kitchen for himself in Russia.

Smelt with cucumber salsa and green chili sauce
490 rubles

Open beef sandwich
750 rubles

Lightly salted cucumbers with seaweed and peanuts
250 rubles

Caviar duet (whitefish and trout) with potato chips
290 rubles

Cold beet soup
290 rubles

Whey dessert with salted caramel and pear puree
220 rubles

Dark beer ice cream
210 rubles