From the history of Russian baking. Unleavened dough products

Martyusheva Varvara Alexandrovna

Research work on the traditional food culture of the Old Believers of the village of Kamskoye.

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Research

Traditional dishes of the Old Believers

the village of Kamskoye, cooked in a Russian oven

Completed by: Martyusheva

Varvara Alexandrovna,

Grade 9 student

MBOU Kamskaya secondary school

Head: Novoselova

Natalya Yurievna,

History and Local History Teacher

MBOU Kamskaya secondary school

Kamskoe, 2013

Introduction p. 3

Chapter I

The history of building a house with. 5

Chapter II

The interior of the dwelling with. 7

Conclusion p. fourteen

Sources and literature p. 15

Appendix c. 16

Introduction

Old Belief is a religious movement that emerged in the 17th century. as a result of the split of the Russian Orthodox Church, which occurred due to the church reform of Nikon.

On the territory of the village of Kamskoye, the Old Believers have existed for a long time (Appendix No. 1). At present, 6 families of Old Believers live in the territory of the village of Kamskoye, with a total number of 15 people.

Nutrition is one of the conditions for human existence. Since ancient times, cooking has not been so much a pleasure as a vital necessity. Cooking methods and their further This study is relevant in the light of the preservation of cultural heritage. Also, studying traditional cuisine Old Believers fills in the gaps in the study of the culture of our village, as well as the ethnographic characteristics of its individual groups, in particular, the Old Believer population.

Hypothesis: in this historical period, recipes for traditional dishes can be preserved and passed down from generation to generation.

Object of study: traditional culture of the Old Believers.

Subject of study – traditional dishes Old Believers of the village of Kamskoye, cooked in a Russian oven.

Geographic scoperesearch covers the territory of the village of Kamskoye. For comparison and addition, information was also used on the traditional food of Old Believers from the neighboring Perm edge and Siberia.

Chronological scope of the study- late XIX - early XXI century.

Purpose of the study: study and systematization of traditional dishes of the Old Believers of the village of Kamskoye.

Tasks:

1. describe the traditional dishes of the Old Believers of the village of Kamskoye;
2. identify what factors contribute to the preservation, change or loss of elements of the interior of a traditional home.

Research methods:work with respondents, analysis of Internet resources, analysis of sources and literature, comparison, description, work with reference material.

The main source for solving the set tasks was the data received from the respondents. Their information allowed us to significantly expand the scope of the study, since the memory stores the messages of parents and grandfathers. Photo materials were added to the work as material sources.

Description of the traditional food of the Old Believers of the North Ural peasantry of the mid-19th - early 20th centuries. presented in the Essays on the ethnography of the North Ural peasantry "On the way from the Perm land to Siberia."

In addition, in my work, I used the resources of the Internet network.

The research materials will be used in local history lessons, and will also be transferred to the regional archive and Museum of History and Culture of Votkinsk, where everyone can get acquainted with them.

Chapter I

Features of Old Believer food

The church reform of Patriarch Nikon divided the Orthodox into “Nkonians” and Old Believers, confronting the latter with the problem of realizing their own identity and the need to separate “us” from “strangers”. Finding themselves under a ban, as if outside of society, the Old Believers were forced to adapt to the conditions of persecution and develop their own line of behavior in order to protect their own way of life and their understanding of piety. ... The desire to preserve their faith determined the isolation of their residence, isolation ... This, in turn, contributed to the preservation of Russian culture of the 17th-18th centuries, including the Russian one. national cuisine this period.

Persistent preservation traditional characteristics In the food of the Old Believers, the great role of the natural way of life in their economy and the ubiquitous existence of the Russian stove also contributed. In addition, the composition of food largely depended on the economic activities of the family, the degree of prosperity, and the natural environment. ... Religious traditions have contributed to the preservation old dishes and diet. So the Old Believers had many prohibitions and restrictions in relation to food and its intake. It was forbidden to eat potatoes, sugar, use yeast, drink tea, coffee, generally use purchased products.This was explained by the harmfulness of their use due to the peculiarities of their origin or the sinfulness of the products themselves. In the store they bought only unmilled grain and, as an exception, salt. Foodstuffs bought at the market, in a store, etc., as "serene", had to be blessed with prayer before use, otherwise they could not be eaten. Over time, some restrictions were lifted by cathedrals, so in 1912 it was allowed to eat potatoes, and in 1972 - pasta. Nevertheless, until the end of her life, my great-grandmother strictly forbade buying anything in the store except flour and salt. ... There was also a ban on "mixing in dishes." "For Christians to have their own treasures ... From the worldly from their own cup, and if more from their vessels do not drink, no food ..." .

The rules for maintaining ritual purity were also observed when preparing food in the oven: it was forbidden to light the fire with matches. ... Therefore, the great-grandmother kept the fire in the bend, or knocked it out with a "chick" from special stones .

Some restrictions remain to this day. Grandmother and grandfather strictly observe meal times and queues (the eldest starts eating first). Each family has their own tableware. The meal is necessarily preceded by prayer and it ends with it.for "the table that begins and ends with prayer will never become scarce"

Analyzing the above, we can conclude that strict asceticism, adherence to old traditions, and restriction in food played an important role in the Old Believers. But at the same time, it should be noted that the modern Old Believers are already different from the traditional Old Believers. Fanaticism and isolation are weakened. “We live in a world and have to adapt to this world,” says my grandmother. Food prohibitions and strict adherence to ancestral traditions gradually began to give way to "secularization".

Chapter II

Traditional dishes of the Old Believers, prepared

in the Russian oven

The traditional cuisine of the Old Believers is based on the traditions and customs of the Russian national cuisine, its dishes are simple, but at the same time varied. The daily diet and food intake is determined by fasting. In accordance with this, the table is divided into fast (milk-egg-meat) and lean (vegetable-mushroom). Dishes were prepared from flour, dairy, meat and vegetable supplies.

The process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking food in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. That which was intended for cooking was boiled from beginning to end, that which was intended for baking was only baked. Heat treatment food consisted in heating with a warm Russian oven, strong or weak, of three degrees - "before the loaves", "after the loaves", "on the free spirit." The dishes were rather stewed or semi-stewed, semi-stewed, which is why they acquired a very special taste. The secret is that the heat in the oven is evenly distributed and the temperature remains constant for a long time. In rounded pot-bellied pots, the contents are warmed up from all sides without burning.

“Bread is the head of everything,” says a Russian proverb. It was bread that was the basis of all nutrition. In the family of my great-grandfather Ilyin Zakhar Anatolyevich (born in 1897) and great-grandmother Ilyina Tatyana Ivanovna (born in 1905), they mainly bakedryeyeast-free bread. Barley was sometimes added to rye flour. In the hungry years, they added grated raw potatoes, squash or pumpkin. Bread was usually baked once a week. This is a complex and time-consuming business. In the evening, the great-grandmother prepared the thick (leaven). To do this, she poured into a wooden tub (sauerkraut) warm water and add raisins, then put it in a warm place. When the raisins soured, my great-grandmother added a spoonful of rye flour (currently, my grandmother adds second-grade flour instead of rye flour). Sometimes boiled crushed potatoes or other vegetables (raw or boiled, grated) were also added to this mixture. Sometimes the great-grandmother used dried or fresh currants for sourdough. When the leaven soured (bubbles and a specific sour smell appeared on the surface), water, flour, salt were again added (to the consistency of sour cream). They again put the ferment in a warm place for several hours. As soon as the dough came up, it was kneaded thicker until the dough began to lag behind the hands and sides of the tub. The saucer was again put in a warm place for a while, and then kneaded again. When the dough was ready, it was divided into large, smooth breads. My great-grandmother rolled out the bread in a special wooden trough - a seltzer. She laid out the rolled bread on cloth napkins (boards), thickly sprinkled with flour, in birch bark or willow bread bins. The raised bread from the breadbaskets was transferred to wooden shovels and straightened into a Russian oven. Great-grandmother baked bread on a hearth, or on cabbage leaves... They kept the baked bread in special bread bins. In them, he was served on the table. Currently, in our family, adhering to old traditions, they also bake yeast-free bread, using wheat flour of the first or top grade... The loaves prepared for baking are placed in frying pans and baked as before in a Russian free-standing oven.

My ancestors also used wheat flour, from which the favorite delicacies of children were prepared on holidays - rich rolls, pickers from fermented dough, ooladi and pancakes. Pies were also baked on holidays. "Red hut with corners, and dinner with pies" - says the Russian proverb. They were baked in different sizes and shapes: small and large, round and square, elongated and triangular, open (stretching) and closed. And what kind of filling was not: meat, fish, cottage cheese, vegetables, with eggs, porridge, fruits, berries, mushrooms, raisins, peas. They baked pies from different types dough: yeast, unleavened and puff pastry. There were pies baked on a hearth and baked (baked in butter). Currently, our family also bakes the most various types pies. But sandpipers (Appendix No.) and shangi (potato and liquid) are especially often baked.

“Shchi and porridge is our food,” my great-grandmother loved to say. Porridge was the simplest, most satisfying and affordable food. A little cereal or grain, water or milk, salt to taste - that's the whole secret. It was not difficult to prepare them, but it was important to maintain the correct ratio of cereal and liquid. By changing their proportions, the hostess could prepare crumbly, steep, viscous and liquid porridge... Very often my great-grandmother cooked millet or buckwheat porridge with pumpkin or just pumpkin in milk. The most expensive was considered rice porrige... HER was eaten with honey and ghee only in holidays... Not a single family ceremony was complete without porridge. They cooked it for a wedding, for a christening, for a commemoration. They put the porridge in the oven in an earthen pot. She absorbed the stove spirit, became lush and tasty. Buckwheat, wheat, millet, barley porridge in our house they put it in the oven to this day. The porridge cooked in the oven has a completely different taste and aroma.

Various soups were also prepared in the oven. “Not the mistress who speaks beautifully, but the one who cooks cabbage soup well,” my great-grandmother taught my mother. The cabbage soup was cooked from fresh or sauerkraut on meat broth on fast days or without meat on fast days. Very often, great-grandmother added various cereals to the cabbage soup. In the spring, instead of cabbage, she dressed cabbage soup with young nettles or sorrel. Cooked in the oven and "lip" - mushroom soup with millet and potatoes, fish and potato soup... Whoever has tasted bread, porridge or soup cooked in the oven at least once in their life will not forget them amazing taste and aroma.

One of the oldest dishes cooked in our family is rye kulaga. The process of its preparation was delayed for a day or more. Malt was prepared first. For this, rye was sprouted. When she sprouted, they ruffled it, put it in a linen bag, then put it on the stove - to steam it. The steaming process was closely monitored. The rye must be constantly wet, the oven must be hot, the bag must be periodically turned over and kneaded, maintaining a certain temperature. The top of the bag was covered with a cotton blanket. The steamed rye was dark brown in color. After that, the steamed rye was poured out of the bag and dried in an open oven. The steamed and dried rye was carried to the mill and ground to produce rye malt. Great-grandmother very often ground rye in a home mill, and later in a meat grinder. The finished malt was mixed with rye flour and water was added to the consistency of liquid sour cream. This mixture was poured into a cast iron and placed in a Russian oven from morning to evening. In the evening, they took it out of the oven and allowed it to cool down to the temperature of fresh milk. Sourdough (thick or a piece of dough) was added to the resulting mixture and left to ferment until morning. In the morning they put it back in the oven. The finished kulaga was pinkish-red in color with a sweetish aftertaste. We ate ready-made kulagu with honey. Sometimes viburnum was added to the kulag, getting a new dish - "Kalinnitsa"

Baked milk and cottage cheese are made from dairy products in the oven, as before. Fresh milk is placed in clay pots in the oven overnight. The finished milk has a pinkish-creamy color and a unique taste. Another dairy product iscottage cheeseeaten as independent dish, or used it as a filling for pies. From the finished cottage cheese for the winter (when there is no milk), dried cottage cheese was prepared.To do this, the finished cottage cheese was strained, laid out on a sheet and put to dry in a free oven. We used dried cottage cheese to make stews, large pies with cabbage (capercaillie), small pies. Dishes with dried cottage cheese were a very expensive dish, therefore they were rarely prepared, on great holidays, or for the arrival of distinguished guests.

Meat and fish were cooked in the oven. They were included in the first course, added as a filling to pies. Jellied meat was prepared from pork and beef in the oven.

Since more than half of the days of the year were lean, when certain categories of food are prohibited, therefore, in our family, as before, mushroom and vegetable dishes, food from grain, wild berries and herbs. We eat vegetables not only raw, but also boiled, steamed and baked. For a long time, the family has been cooking boys in the oven. In order to cook pumpkin and apple pies, vegetables are cut into thin slices, spread on a sheet, and then put in a Russian oven overnight. The boys are ready by morning. They are usually eaten before dessert or as a dessert. For the preparation of carrot, beetroot and kalezhny boys, vegetables are cut into cubes or thin slices. Then they put it in a cast iron and add a little water, close it tightly with a lid. They put the iron pot in a Russian stove overnight. The next day, the chilled boys are laid out on a sheet and put back in the Russian oven overnight. The boys are ready by morning. Sometimes it can take up to three days to make a boy from these vegetables.

Thus, we can conclude that the history of Russian national cuisine goes back to ancient times. It took shape and developed over many centuries, but, unfortunately, at present, many Russian folk traditions and customs are forgotten and lost..

Thus, the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking food in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. That which was intended for cooking was boiled from beginning to end, that which was intended for baking was only baked. Heat treatment of food consisted in heating with a warm Russian stove, strong or weak, three degrees - "before the loaves", "after the loaves", "at the free spirit" - but always contactless with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature, when the oven gradually cooled down, but never with an increase in temperature, as in the case of on-top cooking. That is why the dishes were always obtained not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a completely special taste. It is not for nothing that many dishes of ancient cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in different temperature conditions.

The Old Believers of the village of Kamskoye, as before, pay sufficient attention to the traditions of daily food consumption. According to the rules of Christian life, they require the presence of all family members at the meal, an obligatory appeal to God before the beginning of the meal and after its end; maintaining silence at the table. Distinctive feature Old Believers is a ban on musical

Having guessed the owner, he put a hut on the stove - says a Russian proverb. The stove is the soul of the house. She will feed, water and warm. In our family, as before, they use the oven for cooking: they bake bread and pies, boil porridge, cabbage soup, stew meat, fish, vegetables, dry berries and mushrooms. And all this turns out to be amazingly tasty and nutritious. The smell of food cooked in a Russian oven is incomparable with anything. And the bread baked in it is the most delicious and aromatic, with a crispy crust, and it melts in your mouth.

The recipes of old Russian dishes are carefully stored and passed on from generation to generation.

Yeast-free bread.First, the thick (sourdough) is prepared. To do this, warm water is poured into the container and raisins are added, then they are placed in a warm place. When the raisins sour add a spoonful of rye flour (you can add second grade flour). In addition, boiled crushed potatoes or other vegetables (raw or boiled, grated), as well as raisins can be added to this mixture. Sometimes dried or fresh currants are used for sourdough. When the sourdough sour (bubbles and a specific sour smell appear on the surface), water, flour, salt are again added (to the consistency of sour cream). They again put the ferment in a warm place for several hours. As soon as the dough comes up, it is kneaded thicker, then divided into loaf portions. The loaves prepared for baking are placed in frying pans and baked in a Russian free-standing oven.

My great-grandmother rolled out the bread in a special wooden trough - a seltzer. The rolled out bread was laid out on cloth napkins (boards), thickly floured with flour, in birch bark or willow bins. The raised bread from the breadbaskets was transferred to wooden shovels and straightened into a Russian oven. Great-grandmother baked bread on a hearth, or on cabbage leaves.

Sandpipers. The dough is kneaded in sour milk (curdled milk), with the addition of salt to taste. The finished dough is divided into small portions (koloboks). The koloboks are rolled out with a rolling pin in the form of rounded cakes. The edges of the cakes are pinched. Then put the filling.

The filling can be potato, cottage cheese, or bulk. The filling is prepared with buttermilk. Flour, salt to taste, and an egg are added to the buttermilk. Knead sour cream until thick. Top sandpipers cover with whipped sour cream and egg.

Dried curd. First, the cottage cheese is boiled in the oven, strained, then spread on a sheet and put to dry in a free oven. Ready-made dried cottage cheese is used to make stews, large pies with cabbage (capercaillie), small pies.

My grandmother said that dishes with dried cottage cheese were a very expensive dish, so they rarely cooked, on great holidays, or for the arrival of distinguished guests.

Pumpkin and apple pars.The vegetables are cut into thin slices, laid out on a sheet, then put in a Russian oven overnight. The boys are ready by morning. They are usually eaten before dessert or as a dessert; kids really like them.

Parents are carrot, beetroot, kalezhny... The vegetables are cut into cubes or thin slices. Then they put it in a cast iron and add a little water, close it tightly with a lid. They put the cast iron in a Russian stove overnight. The next day, the cooled lads are laid out on a sheet and again put in a Russian oven overnight. The boys are ready by morning. Sometimes it can take up to three days to make a boy from these vegetables.

Rye kulaga

This dish is close to malt and also a dessert.
However, the process of its preparation was delayed for a day or more. It was made from rye malt and tasted sweet. However, you can also cook it from rye flour.

Pour sifted into boiling water rye flour and boil until thick jelly. Then they add a piece of ice (in the villages they put pure snow), close it tightly with a lid and put it in a Russian oven for a day. The finished kulaga is pink. To taste, it is seasoned with sugar.

Potato kulaga

For its preparation, potatoes are boiled in a peel, cooled, peeled, thoroughly pounded so that no lumps remain. Then knead the semi-thick dough with malt (sifted rye flour), transfer it to a clay pot and, covering it with a lid, put it in a Russian oven, raking hot coals from all sides to the pot.After an hour, remove the pot, beat the mass thoroughly with a beater, close the lid again and put in the oven for another hour.
Then the pot is taken out of the oven, the lid is removed and, after cooling, the kulag is placed in a wooden dish, covered with a towel and placed in a warm place (on a Russian stove) for another day for souring, making sure that it does not oxyderate too much. Then it is again transferred to an earthen pot and, covered with a lid, is placed in an oven for baking. After a few more hours, the kulaga is ready. By appearance it resembles porridge, but even thicker. The color of the kulaga is pinkish, it tastes sweet and sour. Kulagu is eaten cold, adding ice or snow.

Zavarukha-tumbler

Pour sifted wheat flour into boiling sweetened water, boil
simplicity of semolina. Spread the mixture on a greased frying pan with a slide, make a depression in the middle, pour melted margarine there and bake in the oven or in the oven until golden brown. Served with yogurt.

Oatmeal

In the XVI and XVII centuries. in great use by the people was oatmeal made from oat flour with water; in dry form, it was released to service people for food, along with rye flour.

This dish was prepared from oats, aged overnight in a warm Russian oven. At the same time, the flour obtained from such grain lost its ability to form gluten, but it swelled well in water and quickly thickened. The lard was kneaded in chilled boiled water, seasoned with salt.

For cheesecakes and sweet pies, prepare butter dough, for pies, pies and pies with salty fillings - savory.

Fatty dough is prepared without baking powder, and less fatty dough is prepared with soda and ammonia. For a more complete release of carbon dioxide from soda, tartaric, citric or lactic acid or lemon juice is added to the dough. If acidic dairy products are put into the dough - sour cream, kefir, yogurt or acidophilic milk, the amount of acid should be significantly reduced or not added at all.

To prevent the dough from becoming greasy and not losing its plasticity during molding, it should be prepared from chilled products in a room whose temperature does not exceed 15-17 °. The dough is kneaded in different ways, depending on the quantitative ratio of the products.

Dough with a lot of fat is kneaded in the same way as shortbread.

When making less fatty dough, beat sugar and butter by hand with a spatula or mechanically for 6-8 minutes. Gradually add eggs mixed with sour cream and beat for another 6-8 minutes. Then add flour mixed with baking soda and knead the dough very quickly (15-20 seconds).

When making a dough with a weak consistency, first of all, pour water into the kneader, in which you must first dissolve the acid, add salt, sugar, sour cream and mix these products. Pour in half the flour and knead for 3-4 minutes; then add the oil previously softened to a plastic state and the rest of the flour mixed with soda or ammonium. Knead the dough quickly, within 10-20 seconds.

When manually kneading the dough, first of all pour the liquid into the dish, and put the rest of the products in the same sequence as with mechanical kneading. You can knead the dough on the table by sprinkling flour on top of it and making a funnel in it. Pour liquid food into this funnel and quickly knead the dough.

LIQUID FRESH DOUGH (BATTLE) SALT

Grind egg yolks with vegetable oil, add milk (or water) in which salt was previously dissolved. Pour in the sifted flour, stir well, and then add the beaten egg whites and stir gently again.

This dough is used in the manufacture of some dishes of fish, poultry, vegetables in dough, deep-fried.

Flour 1000, eggs 1233, refined vegetable oil 50, milk or water 1000, salt 25.

LIQUID FRESH DOUGH (BATTLE) SWEET

Grind egg yolks with sugar and salt, add sour cream, and then pour in cold milk. Pour in the sifted flour, mix well, add the whipped whites and mix slightly again.

This dough is used in the manufacture of some sweet dishes: apples, berries in dough, deep fried.

Flour 1000, eggs 1000, sour cream 250, milk 1000, sugar 150, salt 10.

BAKED BAKERY FROM PREPARED PREPARED PASTRY

Prepare unleavened dough. To make the products crumbly, this dough should be prepared with the addition of baking soda and citric acid... For a more even distribution of baking soda in the dough, mix first with a small amount of flour, and then with the rest of the flour and sift. In the dish in which the dough is kneaded, add flour, add melange or eggs mixed with sugar, melted butter or margarine, then pour in water, having previously dissolved acid and salt in it. After that, quickly knead the dough and cool it at a temperature of 10-12 ° for an hour. Chilled dough is easier to roll out - it does not stick to the table and does not tighten when forming products.

Roll out a rectangular layer 3-5 mm thick and cut out cakes weighing 58 g with a round notch. Put minced meat in the middle of the cakes, join the edges of the dough, then place the product on a sheet, grease with an egg and bake at 230-240 °.

Flour 3600, table margarine 400, melange 500, sugar 100, salt 40, soda 50, citric acid 50, water 1300; test output 5800; minced meat 2500, melange for greasing pies 150, refined vegetable oil for greasing a sheet 25. Yield 100 pcs. to 75 g.

FRESH PASTIC ROLLS

Roll out the unleavened dough in an even layer up to 5 mm thick and cut out circles from it; pinch the edges of the circles. Place the pinched circles on the patty sheet so that they are at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other; then pierce the middle of the circles with a fork and fill with jam or minced curd, grease with an egg (for a cheesecake with jam, grease only the dough, and with cottage cheese - the entire surface of the product) and bake.

For the dough: flour 3600, butter 400, eggs or melange 660, sugar 250, soda 50, citric acid 50, salt 40, water 1300; minced meat 3000, refined vegetable oil for lubricating sheets 25, eggs for lubricating cheesecakes 200.

FRESH Dough BASKET

Roll out the unleavened dough in a layer of 5-6 mm and cut out circles of the desired size with a notch. Place the mugs in metal molds, pressing and firmly pressing the dough to the bottom and walls of the molds. Then pierce the dough with a fork in several places at the bottom of the mold, fill the baskets with dry peas or small beans and bake. You should pierce the dough and fill the mold with peas so that the dough does not deform during baking.

After baking, allow the products to cool slightly, then remove the peas and remove the baskets from the molds.

Baskets filled with meat, fish products or eggs should be served as an independent dish and as an appetizer, and filled with vegetables as a side dish.

Baskets made of sweet dough (shortbread), filled with various berries, fruit and jam, serve as a cake or sweet dish.

Flour 1910, butter or butter margarine 450, sour cream 220, eggs 280, sugar 55. Yield 100 pcs. to 25 g.

ORIENTAL SHAVING

Knead a hard dough from flour containing 30-35% gluten and eggs and after 10-15 minutes roll out a layer 2-3 mm thick. Cut the layer as on homemade noodles... Dry the cut shavings 40-50 mm long and 5-6 mm wide for 5-7 minutes and fry in a large amount of fat (deep fat). After that, place the product on the net and, when the fat drains, sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Flour 600, eggs 331, flour for dusting 57, ghee for deep fat 346, powdered sugar for sprinkling 69. Yield 1 kg.

CHEBUREK

Make a steep from flour, water and salt unleavened dough like for noodles.

To prepare minced meat, pass fatty lamb and onions through a meat grinder, season with salt, pepper and add water to the mass.

Roll out the dough in a layer 2 mm thick, cut out the cake with a round corrugated notch, grease with an egg, put the minced meat in the middle and bend one edge of the cake over the minced meat to make a crescent-shaped pie. Fry in a large amount of fat (deep fat), serve hot.

For the dough: flour 110, salt 2, water 40; test output 150; for minced meat: mutton 78, onion 15, salt 1, pepper 0.1; exit 90; fat for deep fat 15, eggs for greasing 2. Output 240 (2 pcs.).

SOMSA IN KAZAKH

Knead the dough from flour, butter and salted hot water. Roll out pieces of dough weighing 100 g into a cake, put the liverwurst in the middle and pinch the edges of the cake over the minced meat on three sides, giving the product a triangular shape, then grease with an egg and bake in an oven.

To prepare minced meat, boil lung, heart, liver, mince, add fried onion, pepper and white sauce.

For the dough: flour 70, butter margarine 12, water 20; test output 100; for minced meat: lung 90, heart 35, liver 35, onions 15, butter margarine 10, flour 2, eggs 4; exit 115. exit 200.

CANDIES WITH CHEESE

From unleavened dough roll out very thin cakes and dry them in an oven.

Put a tortilla in a frying pan, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with another tortilla, pour over melted fat and bake in an oven.

Flour 50, sugar 1, table margarine 20, water 20, cheese 15. Exit 85.

Bread rolls with millet porridge

Roll out the unleavened dough in the form of a flat cake 1 cm thick, put the minced meat - loose millet porridge with sugar on one half of the flat cake, then close it with the second half of the flat cake, cut the edges of the dough evenly, press firmly, shape the product into a crescent shape and fry on both sides in oil on frying pan.

Serve hot.

For the dough: flour 30, salt 1, water 10, table margarine 2, sugar 2; for minced meat: millet 10, ghee 2, sugar 4; vegetable oil for frying 16. Output 100 (2 pcs.).

POTATO PIE

Knead unleavened dough from flour, oil, salt and water, as for noodles. Boil peeled potatoes, dry them and turn them through a meat grinder along with feta cheese, add browned onions, salt, pepper (to taste). Roll out the prepared dough into a flat cake with a diameter of 20 cm, put minced meat on it, connect the ends of the dough and pinch.

Lay the pie on a sheet, grease with an egg and bake.

Slice the chilled pie.

For the dough: flour 60, salt 1, butter margarine 10, water 20; for minced meat: potatoes 75, sheep cheese 30, onions 10, creamy margarine 5, eggs 1/10 pcs. Exit 190.

Pancakes

Beat eggs, salt and sugar with a broom for 1-2 minutes, add milk, mix and add sifted flour. With a quick movement of the broom, knead a homogeneous batter and strain it through a fine sieve.

Pour the finished dough with a scoop in a thin layer on hot, greased frying pans and fry on both sides so that the pancakes are just browned, but not burnt.

Fold the pancakes without filling in four; the folded pancakes can be sautéed again. Pancakes can be prepared with any filling: meat, rice, cottage cheese, jam, apples, etc.

When producing a large number of pancakes, it is advisable to apply the following method: pour the prepared dough with a large scoop (600-700 g) onto a hot greased baking sheet; lifting the edge of the baking sheet, pour the dough over its entire surface. After one side is fried, place the baking sheet in the oven for 3-5 minutes. Put the prepared large pancake on the table, turning the baking sheet over for this. Cut the pancake into even squares, from which to shape the pancakes, as usual.

Pancakes can be served with butter, sugar, honey or jam.

Flour 40, milk 100, eggs 10, salt 0.5, sugar 3, ghee 2. Yield 100 g.

PANCAKES WITH MUSHROOMS

Bake thin pancakes from unleavened dough, 2-3 pcs. per serving. Place mushroom mince on the toasted side of each pancake and wrap it. Moisten the surface of the folded pancakes with egg white, roll in white wheat bread crumbs and fry in butter on both sides. Place in an oven for 5-6 minutes.

To prepare minced meat, chop fresh porcini mushrooms or champignons not very finely or chop them into thin slices and fry with butter. Chop the onions and fry them separately. Then connect, add hot milk sauce medium thickness, as for baked dishes, and raw egg yolk. Mix everything and season to taste with salt and pepper.

When serving, place the pancakes on a warmed plate or oval dish covered with a paper napkin. Garnish with deep-fried parsley. Serve sour cream in a gravy boat.

Pancakes 100, fresh mushrooms 100, onion 30 sauce 25, eggs 1 pc., Bread crumbs 20, ghee 15, sour cream 30-40, parsley 10. Yield 225.

PANCAKES BAKED WITH CHEESE AND POLOKONA

Make dough and bake pancakes. Grease the pancake, sprinkle with cheese, cover with another pancake, put the oatmeal mixed with butter and cover with another pancake. Fold the pancakes prepared in this way in half, giving them the shape of a crescent, grease with sour cream and bake in an oven.

Flour 30, milk 70, eggs 10, cheese 15, oatmeal 30, butter 20, sour cream 10, salt 1. Yield 125.

FRIED PANCAKES

Grind eggs, salt, sugar until smooth, mix with cold water, add sifted flour and stir thoroughly with a broom so that the dough is homogeneous, then strain it through a sieve.

Pour a thin layer of dough into a greased hot cast-iron or iron frying pan and fry until one side of the pancakes turns golden brown.

Put the minced meat on the toasted side of the pancake, wrap the pancake in the form of a rectangular pie, grease with an egg, roll in breadcrumbs from white bread and deep-fry.

For minced meat, you can use the fillings used for pies.

For the dough: flour 2000, table margarine 200, sugar 100, salt 30, melange 600, water 4800; minced meat 2500, for breading eggs 500 and wheat bread 1000, fat for deep fat 800.

DUMPLINGS SIBERIAN

Pour the sifted flour on the table with a mound and make a funnel-shaped depression in it, into which pour water mixed with eggs and salt. Liquid (water, eggs) must be taken strictly at the rate based on 1 kg of flour 400 g of liquid and when mixing, strive to quickly mix all the liquid with flour. Knead a steep homogeneous dough, and to facilitate rolling, let the dough lie down for 20-30 minutes.

Roll out the prepared dough in a long strip 1-1.5 mm thick and 40-50 cm wide and grease with an egg. from the other. Close the balls of meat with the edge of the dough, press the top layer of the dough with your hands to the bottom around each ball and cut the dumplings in the shape of a crescent with a metal notch with a diameter of 3 cm. Put the dumplings on a floured baking sheet and place in a cold room.

To prepare minced meat, cut beef and pork or lamb into pieces and mince, add sugar, salt, pepper, water (18-20% by weight of meat), minced onion and mix everything. Cook the dumplings in salted water (for 1 kg of dumplings, 4 liters of water, 40 g of salt) with a low boil for 8-10 minutes.

Dumplings can be served butter or sour cream, vinegar.

For the dough: flour 330, eggs 23, water 115, salt 6; test output 450; for minced meat: beef 200, pork 230, onions 40, salt 9, pepper 0.2, sugar 0.5, water 90; minced meat output 560; eggs for lubrication 20. Output raw dumplings 1 kg.

DUMPLINGS MOSCOW

Moscow dumplings are prepared in the same way as Siberian dumplings, but they take less dough and more minced meat.

For the dough: flour 260, eggs 23, water 90, salt 5; for minced meat: beef 230, pork 264, onions 48, salt 9, pepper 0.5, sugar 1, water 100; eggs for lubrication 20. Output of raw dumplings 1 kg.

CHINESE DUMPLINGS

Chinese dumplings are prepared in the same way as Siberian dumplings, but instead of beef, finely chopped fresh white cabbage is added to the minced meat.

For the dough: flour 330, eggs 23, water 115, salt 6; for minced meat: pork 325, fresh cabbage 176, onion 40, salt 9, pepper 0.3, water 50; eggs for lubrication 20. Output of raw dumplings 1 kg.

Fried dumplings

To cook Siberian dumplings, put in a hot skillet with fat and fry until tender. TO fried dumplings serve butter.

Pelmeni 230, ghee for frying 15, butter for watering 10. Exit 200.

DUMPLINGS IN OMLETTE

Wrap boiled Siberian dumplings in an omelet fried until half cooked and place in a hot oven for 3-5 minutes. Drizzle with oil before serving.

Dumplings 100, eggs 86, milk 20, salt 3, ghee for frying 15, butter for watering 10.

UZBEK DUMPLINGS (CHUCHVARA)

Prepare unleavened dough, roll it out to a thickness of 1-2 mm, cut into squares (30x30 mm), put the minced meat and, turning from corner to corner, connect the edges.

To prepare the minced meat, cut the beef pulp into small pieces and mince. Finely chop the onion. Combine meat and onions, add water, pepper, salt and mix thoroughly.

Boil chuchvara in broth, season with yogurt, red pepper to taste and sprinkle with herbs.

For the dough: flour 100, water 30, salt 3; test output 130; for minced meat: beef 110, onion 40, ground black pepper 1, water 30; minced meat output 180; sour milk 30, red pepper, parsley. Chuchvara exit 370.

BARLEY FLOUR BARS

Put salt, barley flour, eggs and melted butter in the milk. Knead a tough dough, shape into oblong dumplings and cook for 10 minutes in meat broth or lightly salted water. Serve hot to meat dishes or as an independent dish with fresh or sour milk(200 g).

Barley flour 100, eggs 8, butter 10, milk 125. Yield 250.

DUMPS WITH PLUMS

Boil peeled potatoes, dry them, mince them or wipe them on a pulverizing machine. Mix the cooled potato mass with flour, eggs, salt and mix well. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 10 mm and cut out the circles with a round notch 1. Put a plum (pitted) on each circle of dough, sprinkle with sugar, pinch and cook in boiling water. When serving knydli, pour over sour cream. Boiled knidli can be poured with sour cream and baked in an oven.

For the dough: flour 60, eggs 8, potatoes 100; for the filling: dried plums 80, sugar 10; sour cream for watering 30. Output when cooking 300, when baking 255

KNEDLIKI

Dissolve egg yolks, yeast, salt in warm milk, mix with flour and beat for 10-15 minutes in a mechanical beater or spatula. When the dough is smooth and viscous, cover the dishes with the dough and let it ferment for 1 hour.

City roll, loaf or white non-acidic bread, not very stale (one or two days), cut into small cubes, fry in a skillet with fat, then cool and mix with pre-cooked dough.

Divide the finished dough into pieces weighing 100-150 g and shape them into round buns (dumplings), which are put on a baking sheet, sawn with flour.

Put dumplings in boiling salted water (20 g of salt per 1 liter of water). On high heat, bring the water back to a boil as soon as possible, then reduce the heat, close the dish with a lid and cook the dumplings for 5-7 minutes (depending on their size).

Cook the products in a large amount of water (5-6 liters of water per 1 kg of dumplings immersed at a time), so that they float freely in it.

Remove the prepared dumplings from the water with a slotted spoon and immediately pour over with oil.

Before serving, the dumplings can either be sprinkled with rusk sauce, sour cream, jam, or sprinkled with grated cheese or granulated sugar; any of these products can also be served separately with the dumplings.

Flour (grit) 500, milk 300, eggs (yolks) 1 pc., Salt 10, yeast 10, city roll or wheat bread 200, butter for frying 50, butter for watering 100.

Liver dumplings for soup

While stirring, heat the butter until the consistency of sour cream and, whisking with a spatula, add one egg yolk at a time, boiled or fried liver, pre-chopped in a meat grinder and chilled, salt, spices and 1/4 of the city pounded roll. Beat the mass well for 10-15 minutes, then add carefully beaten egg whites and the rest of the pounded city roll. Form small dumplings from the prepared dough and lower 2-3 pcs. into soup or broth for a test cooking. If the dumplings are soft, then you also need to add an egg and a grated roll. Do not put the cooked dumplings in the soup or broth immediately, but as it boils and cook for 2-3 minutes, depending on the density of the dough and the size of the dumplings.

City roll 500, liver 500, butter 150, eggs 5 pcs., Salt 10, pepper, garlic, marjoram.

CARROT DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP

Pass the boiled carrots through a meat grinder, put egg yolks, sour cream and 1/4 of a pounded city bun, beat everything well for 10-15 minutes, then add the beaten egg whites and the remnants of the pounded bun; form small dumplings from the dough and cook as described above.

City roll 500, carrots 500, eggs 5 pcs., Sour cream, cream or milk 200.

Manty

Knead a tough dough from flour, water and salt, shape it into a loaf, divide into 20 g pieces and roll out into thin circles so that their edges are thinner than the middle.

Pass the lamb (pulp) through a meat grinder, add finely chopped onions, cold water, salt, crushed pepper and mix well. Lamb for the preparation of manti take fat. If the meat is skinny, add fat tail fat. V chopped meat you can put garlic.

Put the minced meat in the middle of the rolled dough circles and pinch the edges of the dough.

Place the manti on greased grates (cascans) and place them in the boiler with a small amount of boiling water, close the boiler with a lid and steam the products until cooked for 30 minutes. Serve manti (2-3 pcs. Per serving), pouring vinegar or sour cream.

For the dough: flour 50, water 20, salt 3; for minced meat: lamb 120, onion 42, lamb fat (fat tail) 4; for watering: vinegar 3% 20 or sour cream 30.

Brief annotation

At present, interest in genuinely folk culture, ancient traditions and customs is noticeably increasing. None of us can fully feel like a patriot of our native land, at least from time to time, without referring to the sources of the wisdom of living antiquity. Everyone is interested in the history of their native land. What happened 100-200 years ago? What holidays did the Semeisk people have, how did they celebrate them, what dishes were on the table every day, and which only on holidays? After all, our small ethnic group "Semeiskie", by age-old standards, was formed relatively recently. About three centuries ago, the first "Semeiskie" settled in this harsh land. What special thing could have happened in this rather short period of time? A huge culture has developed: it is a special way of life, a way of life, a spiritual and song heritage and, finally, a kind of colorful cuisine in its own way. Some traditions have completely disappeared from life, no one remembers them, but only there are meager ideas. Our school bears the name "School of Folk Traditions", therefore, the theme of our project was designated as follows: "Weekdays and Holidays of Semei cuisine." The novelty of the project lies in the fact that research has been carried out to study the traditional Semei cuisine, and unique material has been collected from the village's “old-timers”. And also the beginning of the creation of an exclusive colorful catalog of sketches "Semeiski Dishes" was laid. Dummies of festive and everyday dishes have been made. Work in this regard will continue and in the future a collection of creative works (visual aids) from various materials will be created.

annotation

Objective of the project:

Preservation of the culinary traditions of the Semeiskie Transbaikalia.

Tasks:

1. Collect and process material on this topic.

2. Study the traditional and ritual cuisine of the Semeiski family.

3. Create a catalog of sketches and dummies of dishes.

Output:

Working on the project, the following conclusions were made:

Why do you need to study the culture of your small homeland? Traditional Russian, Semei cuisine.

a) feel like a patriot of your small homeland;

Topic: Weekdays and holidays of the family cuisine.

RF, Trans-Baikal Territory, Krasnochikoisky District, s. Urluk

c) learn how to cook various dishes;

d) to enable students and everyone who is interested in the topic of this research to use the results of their activities.

The project is designed for further research. The search for information should continue and work on the continuation of the electronic catalog.

The relevance of research.

We believe that the topic of our project should be of interest to many. The old-timers of the village are passing away and the secrets and wisdom of cooking some dishes are forgotten forever. Who knows, for example, what Boys 1 are? But in the old days this dish was the most beloved of the Semeyskie, a sweet treat for children. If you do not have time to preserve at least the rest of this knowledge and skills that the villagers still have, then you will never recover them later.

Research plan

Problem. There is a gap between the continuity of generations, valuable information is lost, there are practically no publications on this topic, like the cuisine of the Semeys in Transbaikalia.

Hypothesis.

It is assumed that this study and the results of its activities will change the attitude towards the ethnic culture of the Semeiski family, increase interest in genuine folk culture, and possibly revive lost traditions.

Description of methods.

Research methods:

1. Information analysis method. This method was used to analyze the information collected from the village “old-timers”.

2. Association method - a method of forming an idea. Creative imagination refers to different ideas of the surrounding reality. Development of figurative-associative thinking, bringing the thinking apparatus into constant combat readiness.

3. Method of analogy - a method for solving the problem.

4. Design method. Activity product creation.

At the stage of practical solution, the following techniques were used:

1. Interviewing.

2. Sociological survey.

Memorial ritual dishes:

Basically, the diet consisted of meat and vegetable dishes, cereals.

Meat is a valuable product of animal origin, containing proteins, essential substances for the normal development of the body, and fats as a source of energy. And vegetables contain vitamins, carbohydrates and sugars. That is, the Semeiskie received all the necessary substances for the normal functioning of the body.

Topic: Weekdays and holidays of the family cuisine.

RF, Trans-Baikal Territory, Krasnochikoisky District, s. Urluk

MOU Urlukskaya secondary school, grade 8

When you enter the museum and touch the objects that were used in household 100 back, then you feel the warmth emanating from nowhere. Amazing, isn't it? Imagine if we were transported back to the past! So that we can see there what our ancestors were like, what traditions did they live by?

The project material can be used by class teachers, students, museum workers and everyone who is interested in this topic.

Working on a project is interesting, challenging and exciting. Expands knowledge about the past of his village, focuses on communication with the older generation, develops intellectual and creative capabilities.

At this stage of development of our society - this topic is very relevant when the "Concept of spiritual and moral development of the individual" is being implemented

Sociological survey, interviews showed:

Elderly people of the village, teachers, students of different classes were interviewed. The opinions of the respondents did not differ. The research showed that the problem was posed on time.

Older people were willing to share information. The students took part in the interviews with great interest.

The work on the project continues. Ahead is an exciting activity to create replicas of Semeysk cuisine.

Shanzhi-I now have shanzhischi- typically Siberian yeast baked goods ... And our filling is the Transbaikal-ground bird cherry. Fragrant, lush, light - a real delicacy for tea. I do not agree with what they sometimes write - take sour dough - no, not sour, but from the highest grains, butter and sweet, then there will be shanezhki! The sponge method, long proofing, a fairly large amount of baking, knocking out the dough - all this gives the shanzhki tenderness and wellness, does not allow them to stale for several days. In the absence of bird cherry, you can grease the top with sour cream, slightly mixed with flour and sugar - also a local shaving brush. And now I would like to introduce you to the concept of "semeiskie" .... In a poetic form, N.A. Nekrasov in the poem "Grandfather": A handful of Russians were exiled To a terrible wilderness for a split, the Earth was given freedom to them; A year has passed imperceptibly - Commissars are going there, Lo and behold - the village is already standing, Rigi, sheds, barns! The hammer knocks in the smithy ... Once again, a year later we visited, A new miracle was found: The inhabitants gathered bread From the previously barren land ... So gradually, in half a century, a huge posad grew up - Will and human labor Marvelous divas create! Semeiskie is a very bright and ancient branch of the Russian people - a particle of pre-Petrine Muscovite Rus. Who are they, why did they end up in Transbaikalia and why are they called that? In the second half of the 17th century, radical changes took place in the history of Russia. The two largest phenomena in the history of Russia: schism and Peter I. The Russian ruler wanted to win over to Russia the peoples professing Orthodoxy (Slavs, Georgians, Armenians, Greeks). To this end, the Tsar decides to reform and bring the forms of worship and ceremonies closer to the modern Greek models, which have already been adopted in other Orthodox centers (Ukraine, Georgia, Armenia). The books were corrected, walking was changed, that is, walking in the sun around the lectern when performing rituals, the number of bows decreased, church chant was also greatly changed, because of which it actually deprived of "polyphony", which reduced the service in the church. The spelling of the name Jesus with two "and" was introduced. All adjustments were made in accordance with the rites of the Greek church. For many believers, it seemed that in fact a new faith had been introduced in Russia. All supporters of two-fingered in 1656 were equated with heretics, excommunicated and condemned. The reform divided the Russian Church into two camps of Orthodoxy: dominant and Old Believer. Old Believers are that part of the Russian population that has abandoned innovations, continuing to adhere to the old faith, rituals, and everyday life. For this they were subjected to the most severe repression, many were forced to flee to vacant lands on the Terek, Don, beyond the Urals, and many abroad, to Poland. In the second half of the 18th century, by decree of Catherine II, the dissenters were forcibly expelled from the borders of Poland, Belarus and Ukraine. An unknown land awaited them, harsh Siberia, untouched lands. They settled in whole families, so they were later called "Semeiskie". They quickly got used to the harsh Siberian nature. Thanks to the exceptional diligence of the Semeiskys, good-quality villages soon arose. Intangible culture served as a constant support in the difficult fate of the Semeiski or Old Believers, eternally persecuted by the official church and state. It took about 240 years. Semeiskie Transbaikalia firmly rooted in the Siberian land and found a second home here. Semeiskie huts are tall wooden buildings, they are painted inside and outside and washed twice a year. If you approach from the outside, you can barely reach the window with your hand. Frames and cornices in many huts are decorated with carvings and painted. From the 17th-18th centuries to the present day, the Semeiskiys have kept the old uniform unchanged. The Semeiski ethnography gives an indelible idea of ​​the originality and originality of their culture. We find this in their way of life, in everyday life, in the culture of the family, in the strength of moral principles, in the majesty of their clothes, in the decoration of their dwellings, in the painting of their utensils, living quarters. To this day, they have preserved the golden fund of Russian folk culture. The traditional folk culture of Semeiski is a unique, distinctive ethnocultural phenomenon. It is difficult to overestimate the value of Semeiskys as a historical and cultural phenomenon in Russia. They managed to preserve the spiritual experience that was actually lost by other groups of the Russian people. Folk singing traditions have a relict character, which are a masterpiece of oral and intangible heritage, originating in the ancient Russian musical culture and whose roots go back to the Middle Ages. The highest praise deserves the skill and peculiar technique of polyphonic singing, which incorporates many special techniques. Representing exceptional value for a new civilization, the original spiritual culture of the Semeiski Tarbagataisky District of the Republic of Buryatia in May 2001 in Paris was proclaimed by UNESCO as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” and included in the first list of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Semeiskie hospitable, hospitable people, love bright cheerful colors. The coloring of the cornice, shutters, platbands pleases the eye with cheerful colors. This speaks of the vitality of the people, their cheerful disposition and prosperity. Semeyskiye cuisine presents a large selection of meat, dairy dishes, pastries. After visiting the Semeyskie courtyard, having tasted pies, shanegs, pancakes, cabbage soup, porridge everyone wants to come back again. In order to get reliable information about the life of the people living in the Tarbagatai district, you need to drive through the villages: Tarbagatai, Kunalei, Desyatnikovo, Kuytun, you will find yourself at the end of the 19th century on a typical Old Believer street. Having visited the museum, created at the temple in the village of Tarbagatai by Father Sergei, you can see antiques, icons, household utensils, touch the distant past of the Semeyskie. I was there, saw the museum created by the priest on his own, talked with Father Sergius - an amazing person, there are few such unmercenaries now ... Of course, the Semeiski themselves were guests - many now work for the tourism business. They treated us with pickles, very tasty, abundant, patriarchal! They sang and danced to us, played games - an amazing and unforgettable journey ... The echo of which - my shanezhki - according to old recipes ... Help yourself - and come to us, huh ?!

From the history of Russian baking

Russian holidays have always been an amazing combination of elation with simple table pleasures. Simply treats have always been considered by our ancestors as an indispensable part of any celebration. Just a treat has always been considered by our ancestors as an indispensable part of any celebration. And looking into our gray-haired antiquity, we sometimes come across pictures surprisingly close to us today.

“The Russian people are eager for the holidays, and in these two weeks from Christmas until Epiphany no one will undertake any work. For most people, Christmas carols came - pancakes and pancakes, ”- the time was coming for mutual treats, fun and joy.

If our contemporary agrees with anything in this quotation from the book of 1899, it is about work. It seems that the verbose disputes between ministers and deputies - whether it is a lot or not enough for 10 days of New Year's holidays - were settled long ago by our ancestors. The tradition of a long leisurely celebration and mutual treats at Christmas was unshakable in Russia.

Starting in 1700, thanks to the decree of Peter the Great (who decided to introduce the Gregorian calendar in Russia), Christmas actually merged with the celebration of the New Year. "Carols", "carols" - we all remember this ancient pagan custom. But, of course, in the memory of modern people, carols are Christmas songs, they are children knocking on the door, hoping to get sweets and sweets. However, do not rush. Not so simple. Carols are also a very simple, undemanding dish that has long been baked for the holiday. Today it is almost forgotten, but everyone knew it 200-300 years ago. "Christmas carols", "gates" or "fresh food" - a kind of pies from unleavened rye dough.

For the dough, take one rye flour, or half of wheat flour, 2 glasses of flour, 1 glass of liquid (water, milk, yogurt), salt on the tip of a knife. Knead the dough and leave to "rest" for 20-30 minutes, covering it with a napkin so that it does not dry out. Then roll the dough into a rope, cut into equal parts, roll up balls and roll out thin cakes from them, give them a round or oval shape. Place the filling and pinch or fold the edges. The filling can be from berries: a glass of berries (blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, etc.) 2 tbsp. l. sugar, as well as potatoes, carrots, cottage cheese, cheese or feta cheese, mushrooms, porridge. "Christmas carols" are baked at a temperature of 200-220 degrees. Ready hot pies are greased with melted butter.

And if "carols" and "gates" are more or less well-known, then "sweet food" is generally an empty phrase for many. It is mentioned that they were trained in the Yaroslavl province.

In general, dough dishes are the most characteristic of our historical cooking. And, above all, a festive front door. Perhaps no Russian historian dwelt in such detail on the description of our ancient cuisine as Nikolai Kostomarov. In his "Sketch of the Domestic Life of the Russian People in the 16th and 17th Centuries" (1887), he gave extremely detailed characteristics of our culinary dishes, methods of preparation and processing of products. There is a whole section about pies:

“Of the dishes made from dough, pies take the first place. By the way they were baked, they were yarn and hearth. The hearths were always of red dough, sometimes spun from leavened dough, sometimes from unleavened. Flour for them was either granular or crushed wheat, depending on the importance of the day when they were preparing; rye pies were also baked. In general, all Russian pies in the old days had an oblong shape and different sizes; big ones were called pies, small pies. "

The word "tight" is unfamiliar to today's reader. Meanwhile, 150-200 years ago, it was quite usable. We read, for example, "Dictionary of the Russian Academy". So, "yoked - cooked by stretching (frying) in oil."

Holiday cakes are one of the best traditions our kitchen. Traditions are very old, lost over the centuries. Especially a lot of baked goods were timed to coincide with city church holidays.

“The pies were baked with different stuffing: from eggs, cabbage, fish, mushrooms to rice, peas, etc. One must think that there were also pies with filling, there were also kulebyaki - an old and favorite Russian dish that surpasses many overseas inventions in terms of the cake part. - Sweet pies, cooked on sugar, with raisins, jam and spicy roots, replaced the current pastry shops at that time, and were called levashniki. They were shaped like pipes. - They also ate hearth pies with sugar, meat, eggs, cheese, yarn with sugar, yarn with cheese, yarn sour with cheese. “The Russians were very fond of pies, which gave rise to the saying: the hut is not red with corners, but red with pies”.

Moreover, baking is a subject very closely related to the regions of Russia. Simply put, each province has its own pies. In Kostroma, there are preseniks, presenets, for whom they mixed a thick dough with yeast from wheat flour on milk and eggs. They were stuffed, “repaired” with raisins, rice, pockmarked eggs, eggs and fried in the form of pies. They baked unleavened biscuits in the form of a round pretzel - vitushka, kulichka, shishulya, gogul, swirl. And from bundles of unleavened dough - cookies in the form of a spiral, bows, eights.

Biscuits in the form of birds - larks, rooks, ducks, starlings - were baked in the Vladimir province.

In the Arkhangelsk province, as elsewhere, at Christmas, children went to carols, for which they received shangi and kalachi. On the Pomeranian coast, such a detour was generally called "shangi praise". On the Northern Dvina, children were treated to roe deer - shaped cookies in the form of cows, goats, and other animals.

And, of course, the main holiday for baking dough is Shrovetide. It is rightly considered one of the most “culinary” in the whole year. Pancakes, pancakes, pancakes! Wheat, buckwheat, oatmeal, millet, custard, yeast ... We say "Maslenitsa" - we mean "pancakes". These joyful days have long been saturated with their delicious scent. Earlier, they write in old books, on Sunday before the cheese week, “the eldest women in the family went out to the river, lake or to the well, quietly away from the others and, urging the month to look out the window and blow on the dough, they prepared it from the snow”.

And how they ate pancakes in the old days! Read it yourself. This is an excerpt from the book of the famous Russian ethnographer A.V. Tereshchenko:

“All week they bake pancakes from buckwheat or wheat flour in butter, milk and eggs, round, in the entire volume of a frying pan; pancakes are no more than a tea saucer, thin, light and mostly made from milk and eggs, from wheat flour alone, are called pancakes. In wealthy houses, liquid caviar is served with pancakes. In Little Russia and adjacent places, they bake the same pancakes and prepare dumplings. These are small pies, similar to Siberian dumplings, with the difference that they are stuffed fresh cottage cheese, and then dipped in boiling water for a few minutes, removed from the water, immediately served hot: they are eaten with butter, butter and sour cream. Pancakes are served hot everywhere; those who have cooled down lose their dignity. There are pannees who only eat hot ones that burn their tongue and mouth, but the oil softens them. The widespread use of pancakes in butter and vodka gave birth to the saying: not life, but Shrovetide. "

By the way, if you noticed, real Russian pancakes are buckwheat. Today we are all used to making them from wheat flour, but before it was used infrequently. Which, in general, is easy to explain: even white sitny bread was more of a festive treat.

And, of course, the usual association - "to the mother-in-law for pancakes." Where is she from? The fact is that in Russia young families who separated from their parents after the wedding really had such a tradition. Mother-in-law taught daughters to bake pancakes. All the necessary accessories were stored in advance: a tagan, frying pans, a ladle and a tub for dough. That is, he had to bring a bag of buckwheat flour and cow's butter. An invitation from a mother-in-law was considered a great honor. The son-in-law's disrespect for this custom was considered dishonor and insult and was the reason for possible enmity between him and his mother-in-law.

However, one should not assume that the pancake tradition for Shrovetide existed everywhere in Russia. Here is what the same Ekaterina Avdeeva (a famous Russian culinary specialist of the 19th century) notes: “I don’t know why buckwheat pancakes did not come into use in Siberia, but only there they are almost unknown, but thin milk pancakes, aladias, yarns are baked at Shrovetide. and before, in almost every home who only had a fortune, they baked brushwood, a kind of cake ... ".

“I’ll say a few words about my favorite old foods that have survived to this day. Buckwheat pancakes are one of the first, and they are excellently cooked in Kursk, and eaten with butter, sour cream, caviar and olives; sprinkle the baked goods on top with eggs or spread with fresh cottage cheese, and during fasting sprinkle with onions, fried in oil, or snacks. "

By the way, this observation, unexpected for today, is made not only by her. Of course, pancakes have existed in Russia for a long time. Another thing is that they were not always used exactly as an oilseed treat. Let's say more: there are no written indications of this until the 16th century. That is, there was Shrovetide, there were pancakes. But you can read about this, in particular, from the famous Russian historian Nikolai Kostomarov (1817 - 1885):

“Pancakes did not constitute Shrovetide accessories, as they are now, - pies with cheese and brushwood were the symbol of buttermilk, - stretched dough with butter. They also baked dough cones, levashniki, baked goods, nuts: all these types were served in oil; the same dishes were prepared during the fast with vegetable oil. "

So the well-known "Domostroy" (mid-16th century), and much less popular "The painting of the royal dishes" (1610 - 1613) - all this did without the "pancake" associations for Shrovetide. And there is a simple explanation for that. The fact is that initially in Russia, as in many other countries of the world, New Year- was a spring holiday. According to ancient tradition, it has long been celebrated at the beginning of March. And in this sense, the pagan Shrovetide (or comedy, as it was called then) simply preceded it. This continued in Russia approximately until the end of the 15th century, when in 1492 the Grand Duke Ivan III, the grandfather of Ivan the Terrible, approved the decision of the Church Council to postpone the New Year to September 1.

At the same time, the church authorities established their own instead of a pagan holiday, deliberately shifting the boundaries of Lent for this. Even the term "Shrovetide" itself appears only in the 16th century. The period of the ancient Slavic holiday was reduced to one week. And she was moved in the first week of the facilitated fast, which bore the name "cheese" or "meat-empty" in the church calendar, preceding the time of Great Lent.

Thus, the church, on the one hand, "conquered the pagan superstitions." On the other hand, it has preserved the folk tradition of setting abundant tables with all kinds of food. Eat a wide variety of dairy foods: sour cream, cream, cottage cheese, butter, milk, as well as eggs, fish, various cereals, pies, pancakes. After that, Shrovetide completely turned into a Christian religious holiday. And its name began to correspond to the Orthodox custom: meat is already excluded from food, and dairy products can still be consumed - so butter pancakes are baked.

Pancakes, pies, shangi and cheesecakes - all these names in Russian cuisine are innumerable. Our baked goods have rightfully won a completely separate place in Russian cuisine. And at the same time made this culinary of ours an absolutely unique page in the book of world gastronomy.

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